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SOFW Journal PDF free Download. Think more deeply and widely.

personal

care

fragrances

Implicit Associations of Herbal or Fruity Cosmetic

and Room Scents with a Relaxing or Refreshing Effect

Evaporation of Fragrance Components Assessed by Tensiometry

Bio-based Surfactants

Derived from Sugar Beet Pulp

SEM Uncovers Green Copolymer’s

Cuticle Sealing Effect for Healthier Hair

Elevating Cosmetic Formulation

via an Integrative Instrumental

Methodology: A Review

150 Years Ahead

Tomorrow, Last Day!

column

editor

in chief

2025

events

calendar

IFSCC Congress

english

2024

12/24 | Volume 150 | Thannhausen, Germany, December 13, 2024

U1_2411_EN_DE_Selected_v6_PRINT.indd 2U1_2411_EN_DE_Selected_v6_PRINT.indd 2 6.12.2024 01:186.12.2024 01:18

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal

editor in chief

Looking back at the last nine issues, we have uncovered little

anecdotes from the past 150 years. Even though a retro-

spective can be instructive and sometimes amusing, our lives

are dominated by the present and the future.

And the future depends largely on people and their collective

behavior. Without being too philosophical, this fact is rather

sobering when viewed globally at all levels of society.

Therefore, I would like to thank my entire staff, who, as a

united team, have accompanied and shaped the present and

the future of the SOFW Journal and the publishing house in

a positive and engaged manner. We will probably not be to-

gether for the next 150 years, but I believe in a successful

team performance for the next few years. Thank you, every-

one!

Robert Fischer

Editor in Chief

150 Years Ahead

Laura Fischer

Event Manager

Nancy Snehotta

Event Manager

Łukasz Brud

Graphic Designer

Madeline Dettenrieder

Editorial Ofce

and Marketing

Siegfried Fischer

Managing Director

Johanna Williams

Senior Account

Manager

Silvia Fischer

Ofce Assistant

Helge Olsen

Event Manager

Daniela Neatu

Editorial Ofce

and Marketing

Nicole Fischer

Accounting Department

Robert Fischer

Managing Director

and Editor-in-Chief

Franziska Konle

Event Manager

Fabian Mai

Graphic Designer

Mihaela Saller

Subscriptions, Books,

Membership Societies

Dietmar Lisske

Accounting Department

content

editor in chief

R. Fischer

150 Years Ahead 1

column

J. Bode

Tomorrow, Last Day! 4

personal care

L. M. Jansen, D. J. Klaassen-Heshof, A. Ranoux, H. Raaijmakers, T. J. Boltje

Bio-based Surfactants Derived from Sugar Beet Pulp 8

C. Dan, K. Park, J. Leong, H. Hine, S. Soh, P. Tendulkar

SEM Uncovers Green Copolymer’s Cuticle Sealing Eect for Healthier Hair 16

S. De Mattia, A. Mitarotonda

Elevating Cosmetic Formulation

via an Integrative Instrumental Methodology: A Review 22

fragrances

D. Schicker, Y. Xie , A. Springer , B. Karacan, J. Freiherr

Implicit Associations of Herbal or Fruity Cosmetic and Room Scents

with a Relaxing or Refreshing Eect 30

L. Tsarkova, O. A. Soboleva, J. S. Gutmann

Evaporation of Fragrance Components Assessed by Tensiometry 40

advertorial

SphingoCare™ – Overcoming ceramide selection

and formulation challenges: innovative solutions 39

IFSCC Congress 2024 – Brazil 44

interviews

Age Clock Technology and Epigenetics 54

Advanced Training for Safety Assessors 57

Make the Night Your Own: How to Regain Rest and Relaxation 58

event preview

Claims Support for Cosmetic Products – Current Status and Innovative Trends 60

SEPAWA news

Event report Professional Cleaning and Care (PRP) 2024 62

events calendar 2025 66

Index of Advertisers/Imprint 68

personal care

sustainability

Bio-based Surfactants

Derived from Sugar Beet Pulp

fragrances

implicit associations

Implicit Associations of Herbal

or Fruity Cosmetic and Room Scents

with a Relaxing or Refreshing Eect

personal care |

abstract

I’d like to start with some positive news right away. No,

this is not an apocalyptic call, but one of my favorite

creativity techniques when it comes to waking up an

organization and nding radical new solutions. Rad-

ical in a positive and literal sense, meaning solutions

that address the root of the “actual problem”.

4sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

J. Bode

COLUMN

Tomorrow,

Last Day!

The question isn’t whether something will change, but how

quickly and resourceful we are able to adapt. The answer lies

in a mindful and proactive engagement with external inﬂu-

ences.

Creativity as a survival skill: Imagine this: the product that

was a top launch a year ago is now gathering dust on the shelf,

completely ignored by buyers and the market. Why? Because

the relevance it once is now gone. In an industry driven by

trends, new technologies, and shifting individual preferences,

customer empathy, applied creativity, and transformational

competence are the drivers of differentiation. Have the cour-

age to question existing concepts and actively embrace new

ideas. Consumers are more informed than ever before; they

demand problem-solvers, authenticity, experiences, and emo-

tions, all packaged in innovative approaches – by the way, sus-

tainability is now expected.

Sense of Urgency: The only creativity many companies focus

on is comparing, copying, or strategies like shrinking packaging

while simultaneously raising prices – and these are fake inno-

vations that the market quickly recognizes and penalizes. Key-

word: “sense of urgency.” Some focus on processes to manage

processes, lengthy marketing strategies, or the next packaging

design – while others take the initiative, observe, transform,

act, create, and respond to new circumstances with new solu-

tions. The future belongs to the fearless and the doers.

Intellectual transfer and creative competence: Market-

ers, innovators, trendsetters – your own creative competence

must be unleashed and allowed to ﬂourish because it is your

personal springboard to new opportunities and new markets.

“Flourish” here means saying “no” to pseudo agility and

frantic actionism, and “yes” to pragmatism and thoughtful

action.

Proactive Future Shaping: Now is the time to make bold de-

cisions and ask the right questions:

• Short-term vs. long-term: What will my company look like

in two or ﬁve years?

The future is approaching: Warning, crystal-ball-free zone!

Those who wait for the future will be surprised and overtaken

by rapid innovations they didn’t see coming. The future has

three names: “Change > Urgency >> Action.” The time for

waiting is over, the train of trends and technologies speeds off

to uncertainty without stopping. Companies that sit back and

expect everything to stay the same will face a painful truth: the

future is coming closer, and it will be uncomfortable for those

who are unprepared!

It feels like the world is spinning twice a day at the mo-

ment. The world of Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG)

is changing rapidly. Digital trends, new customer needs, and

the relentless pursuit of innovation and growth are pushing

companies to reinvent themselves. But how are FMCG com-

panies dealing with this urgency? Are they more like preserv-

ers, waiting for the next big thing, or are they shaping their

own future? Unfortunately, I often encounter companies that

actively dodge responsibility rather than take action, using all

kinds of excuses. And in this case, a more negative form of

creativity is at play.

A clear deﬁnition of future: Say good-by to the romantic

idea that the future is far away or something we’ll “someday”

reach. Future is now! The questions are clear: What are we

doing today to remain relevant tomorrow? We need to

ensure that products are not only on the shelves, but also an

indispensable part of consumers’ lives – not just in their prod-

uct choices, but as part of their lifestyle decisions. Awareness

of your own role and responsibility for your future is the ﬁrst

step in innovative processes.

The mental overload factor: External inﬂuences and con-

stant change can feel like an unwanted party crasher. The

mental overload factor increases, and nothing stays the same.

personal care

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal

Let’s start with the cautionary approach. Trends, if ignored

or poorly implemented, can lead a company to ruin faster

than you can say “crisis management”. We all know the

brands in the graveyard of missed opportunities – those

that simply ignored change.

On the other hand, there’s the possibility of viewing trends

as opportunities and actively leveraging them for your

company. Trends are not just vague movements; they are

expressions of changes in society, behavior, rituals, and

consumer desires. They offer an invaluable opportunity for

innovation, differentiation, and uniqueness.

However, deciding to view trends as an opportunity re-

quires maintaining a curious mind, creativity, courage and

the will to act. The most successful companies are those

willing to constantly reinvent themselves, anticipating and

transforming needs. I don’t want to overemphasize the

well-known examples of Airbnb, Uber, or Netﬂix, but these

are companies that recognized and implemented trends.

They ﬁlled market niches with innovative approaches, revo-

lutionized their industries, and set new standards.

Fad or Trend: It’s not just about chasing the latest hype;

it’s about how well you can analyze trends and take the

right actions. Of course, the implementation must align

with the brand – keyword: integrity, values, and identity

of the company.

Positive determination and the power of decision

-making: In the end, it’s the decisions you make – and

those you don’t – that determine the fate of a company.

Every company has the power to decide which path it wants

to take: the difﬁcult, energy-draining path of persistence,

stagnation, and falling behind, or the exciting, dynamic

path of change and opportunity. This decision is not just

a strategic consideration; it is already a part of corporate

culture – and thus also part of the question: What do em-

ployees, stakeholders, and customers ﬁnd more attractive?

• Positive vs. negative: Which (external) inﬂuences are driving

the market?

• Seeing vs. blind: How can we anticipate and transform

these drivers?

• Actionism vs. pragmatism: What does a proactive organiza-

tion look like?

• Today vs. tomorrow: What needs to be done now to make

this vision a reality?

The customer as a co-creator: Customers are not just pas-

sive consumers or recipients but active co-creators of their own

products and brands. The voices of the target audience are

loud. Our customers have clear expectations, which means

they must be actively invited to co-create products: listening,

observing, asking the right questions, and translating unsolved

customer problems into new solutions that are in tune with

the times. This not only fosters loyalty but also creates valuable

brand ambassadors.

Innovation as value creation: Innovation is more than just

solutions to existing problems – it is the lever for value cre-

ation! It not only helps tackle the challenges of the present but

also shapes the conditions for 2025 and beyond. Innovation is

more than the product itself: packaging, point of sale (POS),

dosage, application, the story surrounding the product, and

the entire value chain are building blocks of innovation. The

solution-oriented “how” should always be the focus of all con-

templation.

Trends: Friend or Foe? In the dynamic world of business,

trends are like the tides: they come and go, sometimes gen-

tly, sometimes with force. But in the FMCG world, it’s not

just a matter of “following” or “ignoring” trends – it’s more

about the fundamental company philosophy and how one,

as an intrapreneur, responds to trends within the organiza-

tion. Two opposing statements are here: “The Trend is your

End” or “The Trend is your Friend,” and ultimately, it is our

choice – and more importantly, our responsibility, which one

we prefer.

personal care |

abstract

COLUMN

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

Jens Bode

ceo: instant innovate ug

(limited)

inspiration >

transformation >>

innovation >>>

innologe.com

Feedback is highly appreciated,

please contact: der-innologe@email.de

(subject: ‘SOFW column’)

picture credits: https://de.freepik.com, Katrin Heyer

Tomorrow, the last day!

Let’s return to the creativity technique mentioned at the

beginning. In this context, I’ve had the opportunity to

work with a wide variety of companies, provoking them to

think in (in)secure ways about the future. This workshop

format encourages thinking the unthinkable and deﬁning

future hypotheses, which in turn serve as inspiration for in-

novation teams. The basis for these hypotheses and state-

ments comes from new technologies, new competitors,

new trends, and legislative inﬂuences from politics. Three

imaginary examples:

• Fragrances can trigger allergies >> Brussels will ban

the use of fragrances in cosmetics, detergents, and

cleaning products starting January 1, 2026.

• Veriﬁable claims >> Starting January 1, 2028, the

term ‘hygiene’ may only be used for professional B2B

products.

• Democratization of limited technologies >> Our

business and service model will be disrupted by 2030.

A patent will expire and be replaced by a 79-cent app

from the App Store, making it practically available to

everyone.

The point here isn’t to create 100%-provable hypotheses

but rather to think the unthinkable in the sense of “What

if...?” The reaction is always the same: ﬁrst, there’s quick

head-shaking accompanied by statements like “that will

never happen”. This is followed by, “Okay, but what if

the event (WildCard) really happens, and how would we

respond to it?”.

It’s about the sense of urgency and thinking big, stepping

outside the comfort zone. Ideally, in workshops like these,

you start with 20-30 externally formulated hypotheses,

which are then further developed, rephrased, and cre-

atively discussed by the team using various techniques.

The goal is to become more mindful of changes that could

have a disruptive impact on the business model – whether neg-

ative or positive.

The side effect of embracing this kind of bold and radical think-

ing, and collaboratively developing solutions, is that it’s not just

a future-oriented philosophy and mindset – it’s also a lot of fun.

And ultimately, creating innovation should be fun!

The Future Imperative or a Call to Action: Your future is

in your hands. If there’s one thing certain about the future,

it’s uncertainty, and that trends and change will never stop in-

ﬂuencing our lives, our society, and our businesses directly. In

a constantly changing world, we must remain empathetically

alert, making decisions and take actions. Whether we choose

to deny changes or actively confront them is a matter of mind-

set and willingness to embrace change and the new.

Be an instigator, a future instigator: FMCG companies have

incredible potential. The future is approaching, and it has an

unmistakable sound. It calls for innovation, fresh, growth-ori-

ented ideas, and an unwavering will to change. Be among

those who not only respond to challenges but also welcome

them with open arms—using your own talents to inspire oth-

ers and bring them along into the future. Cheerfully shake off

the doubters, complainers, and those stuck in the past, and

take charge of your own path, determined and self-driven, to

realize your visions and shape the future ahead!

Tomorrow, the last day?

No, tomorrow is the playing eld

for doers

and opportunity seekers.

personal care

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 7

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

abstract

Bio-based

Surfactants

1. Biomass-derived

Sugars

2. Green

chemistry

3. Bio-based

surfactants

4. Foamability

Solubility

CMC

5. Skin

mildness,

Viscosity

6. Biodegradable

ingredients

rfac

bili

personal care |sustainability

This transition emphasizes enhanced efﬁciency and a com-

mitment to sustainable production and consumption models.

Central to this approach is the concept of a circular economy,

focusing on renewable resource utilization, green chemistry,

waste minimization, recycling, and upcycling methodologies.

Bio-based surfactants have potential to be more biodegrad-

able, biocompatible, and milder to the skin exhibit compared

to their non-sustainable counterparts [1,2,3,4,5].

Herein, we explored the sustainable production and applica-

tion of bio-based surfactants derived from sugar beet pulp

(SBP) monosaccharides [6]. To this end, we employed the

invention and development process illustrated in Figure 1.

This six-part process is explained step by step in the follow-

ing paragraphs, beginning by identifying biomass ingredients

as starting materials for chemical reactions to develop the

surfactants, scaling up production, determining molecular

properties and their corresponding applications and ﬁnally

ensuring their sustainable production using green chemistry

principles.

To create bio-based surfactants, suitable natural and renew-

able resources such as plant-based raw materials need to be

identiﬁed. Surfactants consist of hydrophilic head groups and

hydrophobic aliphatic tails, wherein biomass-derived ingredi-

ents can play a crucial role to obtain eco-friendly products

[7]. We derived the polar head groups of the bio-based sur-

factant from monosaccharides and the apolar tails from var-

ious linear N-alkylamines. Sugar beet pulp (SBP) emerges as

an attractive agricultural side stream rich in polysaccharides

that can be converted into monosaccharides, such as D-Galac-

turonic acid (D-GalA) and L-Arabinose (L-Ara). This process can

be performed on a large scale and hence lead to promising

precursors for the polar head groups in bio-based surfactants

[8,1,9,10,11,12]. Moreover, the incorporation of N-alkyl-

Bio-based Surfactants

Derived from Sugar Beet Pulp

L. M. Jansen, D. J. Klaassen-Heshof, A. Ranoux, H. Raaijmakers, T. J. Boltje

This study explores the sustainable development and ap-

plication of bio-based surfactants derived from renew-

able resources. It introduces the surfactant blends rMix and

N-Mix, derived from sugar beet pulp, offering eco-friendly al-

ternatives for various applications. These blends exhibit good

solubility, foamability, and surface tension reduction, com-

parable to commercial surfactants. Notably, the surfactants

exhibit mildness towards the skin, as demonstrated by their

signiﬁcantly lower skin irritation potential compared to pet-

rochemically-derived surfactants SDS and SLES, highlighting

their suitability for skin-sensitive applications. Furthermore,

viscosity studies suggest their compatibility in formulation

mixtures, offering alternatives to the surfactant cocamido-

propyl betaine (CAPB). Sustainability considerations are ad-

dressed for the development of the surfactants, emphasizing

the importance of solvent and catalyst recycling, alongside

life cycle assessments for environmental impact analysis. Al-

though optimization and scale- up efforts are necessary to

enable direct comparison with industrial standards, these sur-

factants hold potential as sustainable ingredients with good

performance.

Fig. 1

Process development new bio-based surfactants

1. Introduction

Bio-based surfactants are surface active agents derived whol-

ly or partially from renewable resources and aim to enable

a shift towards sustainable and circular economy practices.

personal care

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 9

personal care

sustainability

amines as apolar tails, derived from oleochemicals like plant-

based fats and oils, further boosts the bio-based composition

of the surfactants. Plant oils, known for their wide availability,

sustainability, and economical pricing offer fatty acids with

varying alkyl chain lengths. These fatty acids can be converted

into primary amines via various methods [13,14,15].

We recently reported the reaction of biomass-derived sug-

ars D-GalA and L-Ara with N-alkylamines to obtain bio-based

surfactants (Scheme 1) [6,11,16]. Scaling up this process

(Scheme 1, reaction I) is crucial to enable further process and

product development and ultimately commercial application.

However, transitioning promising technologies for producing

renewable chemicals from laboratory to commercial scales

can be challenging and costly [17,18]. Herein we report the

use of a blend of monosaccharides and N-alkylamines to en-

sure a high solubility of all components during the synthesis

process enabling scale up [6,11]. Furthermore, the process

temperature (Scheme 1, reaction I) is 35 degrees Celsius,

uses inoffensive solvents (ethanol) and has the potential for

solvent and catalyst reuse.

The physico-chemical properties of the new molecules play a

crucial role in determining their suitability and application as

surfactants. The behavior and performance of surfactants de-

pends on their molecular structure and is categorized based

on factors like charge, solubility, foamability, surface tension,

critical micelle concentration (CMC), and viscosity. The na-

ture of the surfactant’s headgroup determines whether it is

non-ionic, cationic, anionic, or amphoteric [19,20]. As surfac-

tant formulations predominantly consist of water, adequate

water solubility is imperative. For instance, in personal care

products, surfactant concentrations typically range from 5%

to 23% [21,22], reaching up to 40% in detergent formula-

tions [23]. Surfactants with low water solubility can ﬁnd util-

ity in oil-based formulations or as co-surfactants to enhance

emulsifying properties. Foaming ability and stability are also

important for commercial application, as consumers often as-

sociate these properties with product quality, particularly in

items like shampoos. However, foaming is not always desired,

with non-foaming surfactants preferred in washing machine

detergents, lotions, and other cosmetic formulations [24,25].

Another important parameter is the critical micelle concentra-

tion (CMC), the concentration at which the surface becomes

saturated and surfactant molecules form micelles which can

suspend hydrophobic compounds like oily pollutants [24,26-

28]. Viscosity is important in product formulations, inﬂuenc-

ing spreadability on skin or hair and dispensing capability from

the container. Surfactant mixtures, such as sodium laureth

sulfate (SLES) and the amphoteric cosurfactant cocamido-

propyl betaine (CAPB) with a salt like sodium chloride, are

employed to enhance solution thickness in cleansing formu-

lations [29,30] Hence, comparing these surfactant properties

with commercially available bio-based surfactant benchmarks

allows for an assessment of the application potential of the

our newly developed bio-based surfactants.

24th International

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… IN A UNIQUE, HISTORIC SETTING

Get more information and plan your visit !

DGK e. V. – German Society for Scientic and Applied Sciences

Dorfstraße 40 · 86470 Thannhausen / Burg · Germany · hairs@sofw.com

Pictures © Dr_Microbe, fottoo, Monkey Business / stock.adobe.com

25 – 27 JUNE 2025

Augsburg, Germany

 Hair biology  Insights into hair structure

 Hair damage  New methods & technologies

LATEST RESULTS IN HAIR RESEARCH …

HairS25-Ad-V1.indd 1HairS25-Ad-V1.indd 1 10.10.24 12:5410.10.24 12:54

personal care |

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

sustainability

The basic surfactant properties such as solubility, foamability,

CMC and viscosity are important to identify potential applica-

tion areas. Additional parameters such as response to pH and

skin irritation potential are however also important, particu-

larly for personal care products. For example, personal care

products typically maintain a pH between 4.5 and 6, con-

sidered skin-neutral, while home care products like surface

cleaners aim for a pH between 7 and 10. Industrial and insti-

tutional products, such as hard surface cleaners, may require

a higher pH of >10 [31]. Additionally, to assess compatibility

with personal care applications, the skin irritation potential of

the prepared surfactants was investigated using established

zein solubilization tests. Zein, a corn-derived protein, serves

as a mimic for skin proteins, and its solubilization by the sur-

factant indicates potential skin irritation and dryness. Incor-

porating a new surfactant into a formulation is a critical step

in deﬁning and optimizing its intended purpose. This process

allows researchers and formulators to reﬁne characteristics

such as stability, solubility, and compatibility with other com-

ponents. By tailoring the molecular composition, the new

surfactant can be engineered to meet speciﬁc performance

requirements, enhancing its effectiveness in diverse applica-

tions [32,33].

Finally, in our pursuit of sustainable chemical practices,

adopting green chemistry principles is crucial. Inspired by

the twelve principles of green chemistry, we aimed to design

processes with minimal environmental impact [5]. While our

process already utilizes renewable resources and selective re-

actions, further improvements are possible. Reusing solvents

like bio-ethanol and water, recycling catalysts, and actively

preventing waste are important steps. Considering biode-

gradability and conducting Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) are

key strategies to assess environmental impact. LCAs provide

insights from raw material extraction, to disposal, aiding in-

formed decision-making and enhancing overall sustainability

and efﬁciency of the production process for bio-based surfac-

tants [1,34,35].

Materials and Methods

All chemicals used were obtained from commercial suppli-

ers and used as received. L-Arabinose and D-Galacturon-

ic Acid monohydrate were obtained from the sugar beet

pulp produced by Cosun. The synthesis of rMix and N-Mix

is described in patent and articles [6,11,16]. To the sugars

D-GalA.H

O (10 gram, 1.0 eq.) and L-Ara (7.076 gram, 1.0 eq.)

the reagents hexylamine (1.35 eq.) and dodecylamine (0.65

eq.) were added.

Solubilities in water were determined by preparing mixtures

of an excess of compound dispersed in 4 ml demi water using

a vortex at maximum speed for 1 min to create a saturated

solution which was left to settle. 1 mL of the clear solution

was taken and concentrated in vacuo to yield a solid. Weigh

the compound and express the solubility at a weight (wt/v%).

Foam testing of the surfactants was performed using an IKA

Ultra-Turrax T25 with an 18G dispersing element. At room

temperature, an aqueous solution of 5 mL 0.4 wt/v% surfac-

tant in a 50 mL measuring cylinder (2.20 cm diameter) was

mixed with the Ultra-Turrax for 20 seconds at 8000 rpm. The

foam height (volume in mL) was noted at 0, 1, 3, 5, 10, 30,

60 min and 24 hours.

Surface tension measurements were recorded on a Biolin Sci-

entiﬁc Force Tensiometer Sigma 701, equipped with a T107

platinum Wilhelmy plate. Aqueous surfactant solutions, 4 mL

of 0.05 – 2 wt/v% active ingredient, were measured at room

temperature using the ‘Continuous Wilhelmy plate’ method.

The average surface tension was plotted against the concen-

tration to derive the critical micelle concentration (CMC).

Viscosity measurements were made with a stock solution

A which had a pH of 5.5 and consisted of 27% wt/v SLES

(44.64 g), H

O (80 g), and 20% wt/v citric acid solution (0.34 g).

Viscosity measurements (Flowcurve) experimental data. De-

vice: Anton Paar MCR 301 Rheometer. Geometry: Cone-Plate

(50 mm, 2°) CP50-2 SN13265. Method: Logarithmic shear rate

ramp measurement. Initial shear rate: 0,1 1/s, ﬁnal shear rate:

100 1/s, 18 measurement points. Measurement point dura-

tion: 5 seconds. Measurement temperature: 20°C.

The LCA methodology employed SimaPro software with

ReCiPe Endpoint (hierarchist perspective) characterization, uti-

lizing data from ecoinvent v3.6 and other databases

Results and Discussion

We previously reported the synthesis of novel bio-based sur-

factants by a one-pot-two-step reductive amination proce-

dure. Subsequent oxidation could be carried out to afford the

corresponding N-oxide surfactants [6,11,16]. Scaling up this

processes was associated with a number of challenges. These

were solved by preparing a surfactant blend from two mono-

saccharides and N-alkylamines. We have previously shown

that surfactants with a short (6) carbon chain derived from

arabinose act as a hydrotrope and enhance solubility. Hence,

by a using mix of hexyl amine and dodecyl amine the in situ

content

personal care

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 11

personal care

sustainability

a 40-50 wt/v% solubility level comparable to commercially

available surfactants. Both rMix and N-Mix exhibit sustained

and elevated foamability over a 30-minute period. Furthermore,

these blends substantially reduce surface tension to 26.7 and

25.4 mN/m, respectively. The CMC values for both blends, rang-

ing between 0.007-0.012 wt/v%, signify the formation of mi-

celles at low concentrations, underscoring the efﬁcacy of the

blends even at low concentration. Comparable measurements

with well-established commercial surfactants, namely SLES and

CAPB [37], yielded similar results. These ﬁndings collectively in-

dicate that the bio-based surfactant blends, rMix and N-Mix,

achieve a commercial standard performance, afﬁrming their po-

tential as sustainable alternatives in various applications. Inter-

estingly, the surfactant blends show synergy and improved be-

haviour compared to the properties of the individual surfactants.

Mildness for the skin is another important feature for ingredi-

ents used in the personal care industry. Sulfate-based surfac-

formation of hydrotropes (short chain) and surfactants (long

chain) ensured an improved solubility of the reagents and in-

termediates during the synthesis but also of the ﬁnal product

blend (rMix). The subsequent N-oxidation reaction in water

leads to the formation of the amphoteric set of surfactants,

termed N-Mix (Scheme 1).

Next, we examined the properties of the prepared surfac-

tant blends. Physico-chemical properties, including solubility,

foamability, surface tension, and critical micelle concentra-

tion (CMC), were determined following established protocols

(Table 1). The hydrophobic alkyl chain’s varying carbon length

signiﬁcantly inﬂuences surfactant behaviour, with an elongation

leading to reduced water solubility, increased foamability, and

lowered surface tension [11,36]. rMix exhibits a high water sol-

ubility, reaching 1g/mL (100 wt/v%). The solubility of the rMix is

higher than some of its individual components highlighting add-

ed value of preparing the blend. Similarly, N-Mix demonstrates

Scheme 1

Surfactant blends rMix and N-Mix derived from sugar beet pulp sugars, (I) [11] (II) [16]

Table 1

Physicochemical properties, solubility 100% (1g/mL), foamability, surface tension and CMC, of rMix, N-Mix, SLES, CAPB (depending on the type/

additives).

SSuurrffaaccttaannttss

SSoolluubbiilliittyy

(wt/v%)

FFooaammaabbiilliittyy (mL)

SSuurrffaaccee

(mN/m)

CCMMCC

(wt/v%)

1 min

5 min

30 min

rrMMiixx

90-100

26.719

0.007

--MMiixx

40-50

25.366

0.012

SSLLEESS

33.80

0.20

CCAAPPBB

23-35

29.25

0.14

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Suggesting that our bio-based surfactant blends can effectively

replace CAPB in such formulations to increase viscosity.

In the ﬁfth step, potential applications can be determined

based on the surfactant properties. Considering the demon-

strated properties of rMix or N-Mix, these surfactants have

valuable cleansing and foamability properties, useful for many

applications. The suitability of these applications, however,

are dependent on the solubility of the blends at a certain pH.

Given that rMix exhibits solubility across this entire pH spec-

trum, it emerges as a versatile surfactant candidate applicable

in a wide array of industries requiring surfactants with strong

cleansing and foamability properties. As shown in Figure 3,

rMix or N-Mix could be a bio-based alternative for CAPB

personal care sustainability

tants, like sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and SLES, are known

to be harsh on the skin [38]. The skin irritation potential of

the synthesized surfactants was evaluated using zein solubi-

lization tests (Figure 2). Zein solubilization allows a compari-

son between our surfactants and some commercially available

surfactants. In the zein tests, SDS was set as the default with

a value of 100 for comparison purposes. All our bio-based

surfactants were tested a pH level of 7. SLES showed a skin

irritation potential value of 47, indicating it is half as irritat-

ing as SDS. In contrast, all our bio-based surfactants displayed

very low values ranging from 0 to 3. For instance, N-GalA1.12

obtained a zein score of 0 suggesting it’s potential mildness

for human skin. These results clearly demonstrate that the sur-

factants synthesized from biomass monosaccharides, D-GalA

and L-Ara, are signiﬁcantly less irritating to the skin compared

to petrochemically-derived surfactants like SDS and SLES in

the Zein assay.

Viscosity is another characteristic which plays a pivotal role in

product formulations, inﬂuencing both spreadability on the

skin or hair and the dispensing capability from the contain-

er. Surfactant mixtures, like the combination of SLES and the

amphoteric co-surfactant CAPB with a 3 wt/v% addition of so-

dium chloride (NaCl), are commonly used to increase the solu-

tion thickness in various formulations [29,30] In such speciﬁc

formulations mixtures, sodium chloride, being an economical

and readily available salt, serves as an effective thickener. Im-

portantly, a solution comprising only the surfactants or SLES

with only NaCl does not exhibit substantial viscosity (Figure 3,

green line). It is the synergistic combination of SLES with an-

other surfactant and NaCl that imparts viscosity to the formu-

lation.39 Remarkably, substituting CAPB with either rMix or

N-Mix in these mixtures yields comparable viscosity results.

Fig. 2 Zein score shows the skin irritation potential of the surfactants

10 0

rAra1.6

rAra1.12

r Gal A 1. 6

r Ga lA 1. 12

N-A ra1.6N- G a l A1 .6

N-GalA1.12

SLES

SDS

Zein Score -Skin Irritation

Fig. 3

Viscosity (mP·S) of mixtures with SLES – Cosurfactant – 3% NaCl based on the shear rate. Co-surfactants are rMix, N-Mix, rMix18, CAPB.

0.1 - 2 2 -12 12 -100

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12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 13

personal care

surfactant. As an illustration, a 5 mL standard

shampoo formulation was prepared using the

blend rMix in combination with SLES in a 1:1.3

ratio and NaCl (3%) (Figure 4). This formulation

achieves a skin-neutral pH of 5, reaching a vis-

cosity of 3.061 mP·s, comparable to commercial

shampoo viscosities.

Finally, sustainable development of the bio-based

surfactant blends, rMix and N-Mix, was investi-

gated. While environmentally friendly conditions

were implemented, further green improvements

are necessary to align with industrial standards.

Notably, recycling of solvent and catalyst emerg-

es as key aspects for large-scale implementation.

Ethanol solvent, collected through distillation,

showed purity exceeding 99.5%, afﬁrming feasi-

bility for reuse without compromising the quality

of the solvent. The catalyst underwent multiple reuse cycles,

the yield remained stable through a simple reactivation process

using acetic acid. A prospective LCA highlighted signiﬁcant

contributors to environmental impact including solvent, cata-

lyst, and energy use. Renewable energy, catalyst reusability,

and solvent recovery improved results, emphasizing the need

for upscaling testing to optimize parameters.

personal care

sustainability

Conclusion

In conclusion, we report the development of bio-based surfac-

tant blend derived from renewable SBP resources, marking a

signiﬁcant step toward sustainable and circular economy prac-

tices. The surfactant blends, namely rMix and N-Mix, exhibit

promising physicochemical properties such as solubility, foam-

Fig. 4 5 mL Shampoo formulation with SLES, rMix, 3% NaCl

Figure 4: 5 mL Shampoo formulation with SLES, rMix, 3% NaCl

Finally, sustainable development of the bio-based surfactant blends, rMix and N-Mix, was investigated. While

environmentally friendly conditions were implemented, further green improvements are necessary to align with

industrial standards. Notably, recycling of solvent and catalyst emerges as key aspects for large-scale implementation.

Ethanol solvent, collected through distillation, showed purity exceeding 99.5%, affirming feasibility for reuse without

compromising the quality of the solvent. The catalyst underwent multiple reuse cycles, the yield remained stable

through a simple reactivation process using acetic acid. A perspective LCA highlighted significant contributors to

environmental impact including solvent, catalyst, and energy use. Renewable energy, catalyst reusability, and solvent

recovery improved results, emphasizing the need for upscaling testing to optimize parameters.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we report the development of bio-based surfactant blend derived from renewable SBP resources, marking

a significant step toward sustainable and circular economy practices. The surfactant blends, namely rMix and N-Mix,

exhibit promising physicochemical properties such as solubility, foamability and CMC demonstrating their potential as

eco-friendly alternatives in various applications. Further physicochemical assessments reveal that rMix and N-Mix can

effectively replace conventional surfactants like CAPB in various formulations. Their ability to yield comparable viscosity

results, especially when combined with NaCl, suggests diverse applications particularly in the formulation of personal

care products. The production involves a green synthesis approach and showcases their scalability and adaptability,

enhancing their feasibility for large-scale production.

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Principles for Biobased Products. Sustainability 14, 12780 (2022).

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ability and CMC demonstrating their potential as eco-friendly

alternatives in various applications. Further physicochemical

assessments reveal that rMix and N-Mix can effectively re-

place conventional surfactants like CAPB in various formula-

tions. Their ability to yield comparable viscosity results, espe-

cially when combined with NaCl, suggests diverse applications

particularly in the formulation of personal care products. The

production involves a green synthesis approach and showcases

their scalability and adaptability, enhancing their feasibility for

large-scale production.

References:

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the art. Biobased surfactants, 3-38 (2019).

[2] Lizundia, E., Luzi, F. & Puglia, D. Organic waste valorisation towards circular and

sustainable biocomposites. Green Chemistry 24, 5429-5459 (2022).

[3] Vural Gursel, I., Elbersen, B., Meesters, K. P. & van Leeuwen, M. Defining Circular

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using green chemistry principles. DARU Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 30,

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ites. (2015).

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tants. Chemistry– A European Journal, e202400986 (2024).

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Biomanufacturing Technologies 243-260 (ACS Publications, 2019).

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erties, and applications. (Elsevier, 2019).

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standard specification. Journal of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Research 3, 52-

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tergents 23, 809-819, doi:10.1002/jsde.12415 (2020).

authors

Laura M. Jansen

[a]

, Dimphna Johanna Klaassen-Heshof

[b]

, Adeline Ranoux

[b]

Harry Raaijmakers

[b]

and Thomas J. Boltje

[a]

Department of Synthetic Organic Chemistry, Institute for Molecules and Materials,

Heyendaalseweg 135 | 6525 AJ, Nijmegen | The Netherlands

[b]

Cosun RD&I, Cosun Innovation Center,

Kreekweg 1 | 4671 VA, Dinteloord | The Netherlands

Corresponding Authors:

Thomas J. Boltje | thomas.boltje@ru.nl

Laura M. Jansen | laura.jansen@cosun.com

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personal care |hair care

1. Introduction

1.1 Hair damage associated with chemical treatment and

mechanical grooming practices

Consumers visit salons for a range of hair services, from sim-

ple cuts to more complex treatments like colouring, bleaching,

relaxing, and perming, which require lifting of the hair cuti-

cle for effective ingredient penetration. Although cuticles may

close after treatment, many remain permanently lifted, leading

to weakened hair that is prone to breakage and split ends.

Mechanical grooming practices, such as brushing, and heat

styling, such as ﬂat ironing, can further exacerbate this issue.

While intense conditioning treatments are often recommend-

ed to be performed at home or in the salon, consumers often

lack the proper post-treatment regimen to effectively repair

damage and maintain healthy-looking hair [2]. HCOSA poly-

mer offers an innovative solution for both post-treatment care

and daily repair, penetrating between lifted cuticles to reseal

and restore them to their original position, enabling consumers

to maintain their hair care routine without further damaging

their hair and without having to resort to trimming their hair to

remove split ends [1].

1.2 Mechanism of HCOSA copolymer on hair ﬁbres

The hair cuticle, composed of overlapping keratinised cells,

plays a critical role in protecting hair and maintaining its overall

strength and appearance. Disruption or damage to this out-

er layer can lead to common problems, including increased

susceptibility to split ends, decreased shine, and overall hair

health. Recent advancements in hair care science have spot-

lighted various ingredients with potential reparative properties.

Among these, HCOSA copolymer has emerged as a promis-

ing candidate for enhancing cuticle sealing and repairing split

end damage. HCOSA copolymer is marketed under the regis-

tered trade name Crodabond™ CSN. It is a copolymer with the

chemical name Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copoly-

mer (Figure 1).

SEM Uncovers Green Copolymer’s Cuticle Sealing Eect for Healthier Hair

C. Dan, K. Park, J. Leong, H. Hine, S. Soh, P. Tendulkar

Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer (HCOSA) was speciﬁcally designed to repair hair that has been damaged

through chemical treatment and mechanical grooming practices [1]. Several studies were conducted utilizing Scanning

Electron Microscope (SEM) to demonstrate the cuticle sealing beneﬁt from a rinse-off conditioner and split end repair capability

from a leave-on serum. The SEM evaluation showed the superior performance of HCOSA in sealing down cuticles, and the

statistical analysis indicated that HCOSA treatment was signiﬁcantly more effective than placebo treatment over three shampoo

wash cycles. In addition to cuticle sealing, SEM evaluation demonstrated the ability of HCOSA to repair the hair ﬁbre with split

ends. On European hair, the leave-on serum containing HCOSA delivered the best immediate and long-lasting split end repair-

ing effect than the placebo and the natural commercial benchmark from Europe; on Asian hair, it provided the best efﬁcacy in

split end repairing immediately after treatment and medium washout resistance than the placebo and the synthetic commercial

benchmark from Asia. In conclusion, all ﬁndings suggest that the HCOSA is the ideal solution for post-treatment and daily con-

ditioning products to effectively smooth and seal the lifted cuticles and repair split end hair ﬁbres.

Objective

1. To assess the cuticle sealing performance of

HCOSA copolymer in a rinse-off conditioner

2. To assess the split end repairing capability of

HCOSA copolymer in a leave-on serum

Fig. 1 Chemical Structure of HCOSA copolymer

1.0 Introduction

Hair damage associated with chemical treatment and mechanical grooming

practices

Consumers visit salons for a range of hair services, from simple cuts to more complex

treatments like colouring, bleaching, relaxing, and perming, which require lifting of the

hair cuticle for effective ingredient penetration. Although cuticles may close after

treatment, many remain permanently lifted, leading to weakened hair that is prone to

breakage and split ends. Mechanical grooming practices, such as brushing, and heat

styling, such as flat ironing, can further exacerbate this issue. While intense conditioning

treatments are often recommended to be performed at home or in the salon, consumers

often lack the proper post-treatment regimen to effectively repair damage and maintain

healthy-looking hair [2]. HCOSA polymer offers an innovative solution for both post-

treatment care and daily repair, penetrating between lifted cuticles to reseal and restore

them to their original position, enabling consumers to maintain their hair care routine

without further damaging their hair and without having to resort to trimming their hair to

remove split ends [1].

Mechanism of HCOSA copolymer on hair fibres

The hair cuticle, composed of overlapping keratinised cells, plays a critical role in

protecting hair and maintaining its overall strength and appearance. Disruption or

damage to this outer layer can lead to common problems, including increased

susceptibility to split ends, decreased shine, and overall hair health. Recent

advancements in hair care science have spotlighted various ingredients with potential

reparative properties. Among these, HCOSA copolymer has emerged as a promising

candidate for enhancing cuticle sealing and repairing split end damage. HCOSA

copolymer is marketed under the registered trade name Crodabond™ CSN. It is a

copolymer with the chemical name Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

(Figure 1).The Sebacic acid cross-linker increases the viscosity of the material, aiding

cuticle sealing and split end repair [3]. HCOSA copolymer travels in between the lifted

cuticles into the δ-layer of the cell membrane complex (CMC) (Figure 2) and acts as a

cement to re-seal the hair fibre cuticles [2].

Figure 1: Chemical Structure of HCOSA copolymer

abstract

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hair care

images were taken along a few different sections of

each hair ﬁber, including the root, middle, and tip.

2. Number of lifted cuticles of captured SEM images were

counted before treatment, after treatment and after

shampoo washes.

3. Collected data was analyzed by Kruskal-Wallis’s Chi-

Square test.

The Sebacic acid cross-linker

increases the viscosity of the

material, aiding cuticle seal-

ing and split end repair [3].

HCOSA copolymer travels in

between the lifted cuticles

into the δ-layer of the cell

membrane complex (CMC)

(Figure 2) and acts as a ce-

ment to re-seal the hair ﬁber

cuticles [2].

2. Materials & methods

2.1 Test formulations

2.1.1 Rinse-off conditioner for cuticle sealing

2.1.2 Leave-on split end repair serum

2.2 Testing equipment

• Hitachi TM4000 Plus Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)

• Phenom Pro X SEM (NanoScience Instruments, Phoenix,

AZ USA)

2.3 Testing procedure

2.3.1. Visualizing cuticle sealing

1. Eight European hair ﬁbers that were bleach-damaged

ﬁve times were examined by SEM. Representative SEM

Fig. 2 Crodabond CSN (HCOSA copolymer) repairing mechanism on the hair ﬁbre

Figure 2: HCOSA copolymer repairing mechanism on the hair fibre

2.0 Materials & methods

Test formulations

Rinse-off conditioner for cuticle sealing

Ingredients/INCI

Placebo

2% HCOSA

% Wt.

Phase A

Deionised Water (Aqua)

QS to 100%

Glycerin

2.00

Phase B

Incroquat Behenyl TMC-85

(Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl

Alcohol)

1.80 1.80

Crodacol CS50 (Cetearyl Aclohol)1

4.50

Crodabond CSN (Hydrogenated Castor

Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)

0.00 2.00

Phase C

Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and)

Ethylhexylglycerin)

0.80 0.80

Citric Acid (10%w/w solution)

0.03

0.00

To pH 4 – 4.5

Leave-in split end repair serum

Ingredients/INCI

Placebo

2% HCOSA

% Wt.

Deionised Water (Aqua)

QS to 100%

VisCaress HPD (Polyquaternium-37 (and)

Hydrogenated Polydecene (and)

Trideceth-6 (and) Aqua)

2.00 2.00

Crodabond CSN (Hydrogenated Castor

Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)

0.00 2.00

Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and)

Ethylhexylglycerin)

0.50 0.50

Citric Acid (10%w/w solution)

0.03

0.00

Sodium hydroxide (10% w/w solution)

0.06

0.03

Phase Ingredients/INCI Placebo (% Wt.) 2% HCOSA (% Wt.)

ADeionised Water (Aqua) QS to 100% QS to 100%

Glycerin 2.00 2.00

BIncroquat Behenyl TMC-85

(Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl Alcohol)11.80 1.80

Crodacol CS50 (Cetearyl Aclohol)14.50 4.50

Crodabond CSN (Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)10.00 2.00

CEuxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) 0.80 0.80

Citric Acid (10%w/w solution) 0.03 0.00

To pH 4 – 4.5

Supplier: 1 Croda

Phase Ingredients/INCI Placebo (% Wt.) 2% HCOSA (% Wt.)

ADeionised Water (Aqua) QS to 100% QS to 100%

BVisCaress HPD (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene

(and) Trideceth-6 (and) Aqua)12.00 2.00

Crodabond CSN (Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)10.00 2.00

CEuxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) 0.50 0.50

Citric Acid (10%w/w solution) 0.03 0.00

Sodium hydroxide (10% w/w solution) 0.06 0.03

To pH 3.5 – 4.5

Supplier: 1 Croda

Damaged Hair Treated with Crodabond CSN Repaired Hair

Shampoo Wash

Crodabond CSN keeps cuticles sealed after

multiple shampoo washes

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2.3.2. Examing split-end repair

1. Hair ﬁbers screened for pre-existing split ends were

treated with leave-on split end repair serum formula-

tions and commercial benchmarks.

2. For each treatment, ﬁve to eight ﬁbers with idenﬁﬁable

split ends were used for split-end repair evaluation.

3. Representative SEM images were taken from each hair

ﬁber before treatment with each formulation, after

treatment, and after three washes with Croda standard

shampoo.

4. The status of the split ends of the ﬁbers per treatment

was visually assessed from the SEM images at each in-

terval.

3. Results

3.1 Cuticle Sealing performance of HCOSA copolymer in

a rinse-off conditioner

The hair cuticle was visualized using SEM. The number of lift-

ed cuticles was quantiﬁed by counting the lifted cuticles from

the captured SEM images that were taken before treatment,

after treatment and after shampoo washes with the standard

shampoo. The SEM images of bleach-damaged hair before

treatment and after treatment with HCOSA copolymer are dis-

played in Figure 5. A lower number of cuticle liftings indicate

that the hair cuticles were sealed down after the treatment.

The HCOSA copolymer treated hair (151) has signiﬁcantlyfew-

er lifted cuticles than the hair treated with placebo conditioner

(233) (Figure 3). The decrease in the number of cuticle liftings

suggests that HCOSA copolymer provided the immediate seal-

ing effect.

After the initial treatment, HCOSA copolymer treated hair had

89 lifted cuticles after one shampoo wash, 96 lifted cuticles

after two shampoo washes, and 82 lifted cuticles after three

shampoo washes (Figure 4). The low number of lifted cuticles

after shampoo washes indicats that HCOSA copolymer deliv-

ered the signiﬁcant lasting cuticle sealing effect. SEM images

of HCOSA copolymer treated hair after 3 shampoo washes is

displayed in Figure 5.

3.2 Split end repair performance of HCOSA copolymer in

a leave-on serum

The pursuit of long hair is often a dream rather than a reality

for many consumers, the battle against hair damage and split

ends leads many to opt for shorter styles in pursuit of healthi-

er-looking locks. HCOSA copolymer is the ideal solution to ef-

Fig. 3 Number of lifted cuticles calculated from captured SEM images

after initial treatment

***Statistically signiﬁcant (p<0.0001)

Fig. 5 SEM images (X600) of bleached damaged European hair be-

fore treatment, after treatment with HCOSA copolymer, and after 3

shampoo washes.

Before

treatment

After treatment

After 3 washes

Figure 5: SEM images (X600) of bleached damaged European hair before treatment, after

treatment with HCOSA copolymer, and after 3 shampoo washes.

Split end repair performance of HCOSA copolymer in a leave-on serum

The pursuit of long hair is often a dream rather than a reality for many consumers, the battle

against hair damage and split ends leads many to opt for shorter styles in pursuit of

healthier-looking locks. HCOSA copolymer is the ideal solution to effectively repair the hair

with split ends. To assess the split end repair capability, studies were conducted on both

European medium brown hair and Asian hair with split ends in leave-on systems and

compared with commercial benchmarks.

1.Split end repair on European hair

Fig. 4 Number of lifted cuticles calculated from captured SEM images

after initial treatment and after shampoo washes

***Statistically signiﬁcant (p<0.0001)

Before

treatment

After treatment

After 3 washes

Figure 5: SEM images (X600) of bleached damaged European hair before treatment, after

treatment with HCOSA copolymer, and after 3 shampoo washes.

Split end repair performance of HCOSA copolymer in a leave-on serum

The pursuit of long hair is often a dream rather than a reality for many consumers, the battle

against hair damage and split ends leads many to opt for shorter styles in pursuit of

healthier-looking locks. HCOSA copolymer is the ideal solution to effectively repair the hair

with split ends. To assess the split end repair capability, studies were conducted on both

European medium brown hair and Asian hair with split ends in leave-on systems and

compared with commercial benchmarks.

1.Split end repair on European hair

content

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12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 19

personal care

hair care

ment and ﬁve were sealed after treatment with the HCOSA

copolymer and commercial benchmark. However, after three

shampoo washes, split ends treated with HCOSA copolymer

remained sealed on four out of ﬁve ﬁbers, whereas the place-

bo and natural commercial benchmark treated split ends had

resplit. Overall, SEM image evaluation demonstrated that the

Split End Repair Serum containing HCOSA copolymer had a

more long lasting effect in sealing split ends compared to the

placebo and the commercial benchmark. Representative SEM

images of European hair with split ends treated with HCOSA

copolymer or natural commercial benchmark is displayed in

Figure 6.

fectively repair the hair with split ends. To assess the split end

repair capability, studies were conducted on both European

medium brown hair and Asian hair with split ends in leave-on

systems and compared with commercial benchmarks.

3.2.1 Split end repair on European hair

Clean European hair before treatment and after treatment

with a leave-on serum containing 2% HCOSA copolymer or

the commercial benchmark from Europe were visually assessed

by SEM. The number of split ends which have been sealed

after treatment at each interval are shown in Table 1. Out

of ﬁve tested split ends, four were sealed after placebo treat-

Fig. 6 SEM images of European hair with split ends treated with Split End Repair Serum with HCOSA copo-

lymer or commercial benchmark

Clean European hair before treatment and after treatment with a leave-on serum containing

2% HCOSA copolymer or the commercial benchmark from Europe were visually assessed

by SEM. The number of split ends which have been sealed after treatment at each interval

are shown in Table 1. Out of five tested split ends, four were sealed after placebo treatment

and five were sealed after treatment with the HCOSA copolymer and commercial

benchmark. However, after three shampoo washes, split ends treated with HCOSA

copolymer remained sealed on four out of five fibers, whereas the placebo and natural

commercial benchmark treated split ends had resplit. Overall, SEM image evaluation

demonstrated that the Split End Repair Serum containing HCOSA copolymer had a more

long lasting effect in sealing split ends compared to the placebo and the commercial

benchmark. Representative SEM images of European hair with split ends treated with

HCOSA copolymer or natural commercial benchmark is displayed in Figure 6.

Table 1: The number of split ends remainng sealed among test fibers after each application

test (n=5)

After treatment

After 3 washes

Placebo

HCOSA copolymer

Commercial benchmark

from Europe

Before treatment

After treatment

After 3 washes

Split End

Repair

Serum

containing

HCOSA

copolymer

Commercial

benchmark

from

Europe

Figure 6: SEM images of European hair with split ends treated with Split End Repair Serum

with HCOSA copolymer or commercial benchmark

2.Split end repair on Asian hair

SEM image evaluation was also conducted on Asian hair to assess the split end repair

efficacy of HCOSA copolymer. The number of split ends which have been sealed after

treatment at each interval are shown in Table 2. Out of eight tested split ends, four were

sealed after placebo treatment, seven were sealed after HCOSA copolymer treatment, and

six were sealed after the synthetic commercial benchmark from Asia. After three shampoo

washes, split ends treated with HCOSA copolymer were sealed on four out of eight fibers

and split ends treated with the synthetic commercial benchmark were sealed on six out of

Table 1: The number of split ends

remainng sealed among test ﬁ-

bers after each application test

(n=5)

After

treat-

ment

After

washes

Placebo 4 0

HCOSA

copolymer 5 4

Commercial

benchmark

from Asia

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content

personal care |

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

References:

[1] Croda Beauty, “Miracle Cuticle Smoothing Crodabond CSA,” 08/15 PCNAMS018

v2, Aug. 2015

[2] Croda Beauty, “Crodabond CSA,” 06/19 PCNDS2479v1EN, Jun. 2019

[3] Croda Beauty, “Crodabond CSN,” 09/24PCEDS1682v2EN, Sep. 2024

Non-warranty:

The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith,

but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Sugges-

tions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining

the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or

warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products includ-

ing, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose,

non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights includ-

ing, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein,

unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.

personal care hair care

3.2.2 Split end repair on Asian hair

SEM image evaluation was also conducted on Asian hair to

assess the split end repair efﬁcacy of HCOSA copolymer. The

number of split ends which have been sealed after treatment

at each interval are shown in Table 2. Out of eight tested split

ends, four were sealed after placebo treatment, seven were

sealed after HCOSA copolymer treatment, and six were sealed

after the synthetic commercial benchmark from Asia. After

three shampoo washes, split ends treated with HCOSA copoly-

mer were sealed on four out of eight ﬁbers and split ends treat-

ed with the synthetic commercial benchmark were sealed on

six out of eight ﬁbers. However, split ends treated with placebo

had only one sealed ﬁber out of eight. Overall, SEM image

evaluation suggests that treatment with HCOSA copolymer

provided the best efﬁcacy in repairing split-ends immediately

after treatment and medium wash out resistance. Represen-

tative SEM images of Asian hair with split ends treated with

HCOSA copolymer or the synthetic commerical benchmark is

displayed in Figure 7.

4. Conclusion

This technical paper has highlighted HCOSA copolymer’s

beneﬁts of cuticle sealing and split ends repair. The effec-

tive performance extends to multiple applications including

a rinse-off conditioner and leave-on split end repair serum.

HCOSA copolymer is also highly valued for its natural origin,

making it a sustainable alternative to some popular petro-

and silicone-based ingredients [2].

Fig. 7 SEM images of Asian hair with split ends treated with Split End Repair Serum with HCOSA copolymer

or commercial benchmark

eight fibers. However, split ends treated with placebo had only one sealed fiber out of eight.

Overall, SEM image evaluation suggests that treatment with HCOSA copolymer provided the

best efficacy in repairing split-ends immediately after treatment and medium wash out

resistance. Representative SEM images of Asian hair with split ends treated with HCOSA

copolymer or the synthetic commerical benchmark is displayed in Figure 7.

Table 2: The number of split ends remains sealed among test fibers after each application

test (n=8)

After treatment

After 3 washes

Placebo

HCOSA copolymer

Commercial benchmark

from Asia

Before treatment

After treatment

After 3 washes

Split End

Repair Serum

containing

HCOSA

copolymer

Commercial

benchmark

from Asia

Figure 7: SEM images of Asian hair with split ends treated with Split End Repair Serum with

HCOSA copolymer or commercial benchmark

4.0 Conclusion

This technical paper has highlighted HCOSA copolymer’s benefits of cuticle sealing and split

ends repair. The effective performance extends to multiple applications including a rinse-off

conditioner and leave on split end repair serum. HCOSA copolymer is also highly valued for

its natural origin, making it a sustainable alternative to some popular petro- and silicone-based

ingredients [2].

References:

[1] Croda Beauty, “Miracle Cuticle Smoothing Crodabond CSA,” 08/15 PCNAMS018 v2, Aug.

2015

[2] Croda Beauty, “Crodabond CSA,” 06/19 PCNDS2479v1EN, Jun. 2019

[3] Croda Beauty, “Crodabond CSN,” 09/24PCEDS1682v2EN, Sep. 2024

Non-warranty

The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but

no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for

uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability

of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed

Table 2: The number of split ends

remains sealed among test ﬁ-

bers after each application test

(n=8)

After

treat-

ment

After

washes

Placebo 4 1

HCOSA

copolymer 7 4

Commercial

benchmark

from Asia

authors

Chen, Dan

[1]

; Kimun, Park

[2]

; Jasmine, Leong

[1]

; Helene, Hine

[3]

;

Serena, Soh

[1]

; Pradeep, Tendulkar

[4]

[1]

Croda Singapore Pte Ltd,

[2]

Croda Inc,

[3]

Croda Europe Limited,

[4]

Croda India

www.crodabeauty.com

Corresponding Author:

Chen, Dan | dan.chen@croda.com

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personal care |

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

abstract

personal care |formulation process

Introduction

This review stems from our academic and professional expe-

rience in the cosmetic industry, which led us to realise that in

the ever-evolving ﬁeld of cosmetic science, ensuring product

efﬁcacy while maintaining stability, safety, pleasantness, and

formula cost remains a paramount challenge.

An extensive application of advanced instrumental analytical

techniques to optimise the formulation process is lacking prob-

ably because of the costs & availability of tools and difﬁculty

with interpretation and implementation of results in the con-

text of a cosmetic formula. Therefore, such an approach ap-

pears to be utilised by only a few manufacturers, mainly large

multinationals, whereas smaller companies conduct formula-

tion solely relying on the formulator’s experience or possibly re-

sorting to analytical techniques at the latest stages of product

development.

Instrumental analytical techniques enable formulators to inves-

tigate the microscopic properties of products and ﬁgure out

mechanisms that can affect macroscopic behaviours and fea-

tures (e.g. efﬁcacy, texture, ﬂow properties, stability, etc.) that,

however, also depend on formulation strategy and combina-

tion of ingredients.

This review aims to give the reader an overview of some of the

most suitable instrumental techniques for developing a multi-

disciplinary approach that can be implemented as an integral

and iterative part of the formulation process to deliver beneﬁts

spanning the whole new product development cycle.

This ultimately leads to developing innovative, optimised, and

more efﬁcacious formulas, securing successful products “on

the shelf.”

Review of instrumental techniques

Rheology

Rheological techniques can be applied to all cosmetic formats,

hence offering the broadest range of possible tests that can be

performed to aid the development of ﬁnished products.

The vast majority of a product’s features (e.g. spreadability,

suspending power, sprayability, pick-up, lubricity, texture, etc.)

depend on its rheological properties.

By suitably adjusting speciﬁc parameters of rheological analysis

(e.g. time, temperature, shear rate and stress, etc.), real-life

application of cosmetic products can be simulated: this makes

it possible to tailor tests to different cosmetic formats and how

they may be used.

Rheometers can perform dynamic and oscillatory regime mea-

surements.

Dynamic regime measurements are used to determine the

general ﬂow properties of products: mathematical modelling

of the curves obtained provides insightful parameters such as

Elevating Cosmetic Formulation

via an Integrative Instrumental Methodology: A Review

S. De Mattia, A. Mitarotonda

The modern cosmetic industry, known for being fast-paced and science & innovation-led, requires constantly meeting the

ever-changing consumer demand for effective and pleasant products.

In such an environment, formulators face signiﬁcant challenges in choosing the best actives, creating hundreds of prototypes,

swerving around regulatory restrictions and bans, battling bad press affecting perfectly safe and efﬁcacious ingredients, solving

stability issues, decreasing bulk cost, and much more.

Therefore, it is crucial to be able to rely on instrumental techniques to investigate microscopic characteristics & behaviours of

ingredients and formulations under development and translate the data generated into macroscopic properties.

In the Authors’ opinion, such an approach, by coupling instrumental techniques with the indispensable formulator’s expertise,

is essential to optimise product performance, ultimately leading to increased consumer satisfaction.

This review aims to give the reader an overview of some of the most suitable instrumental techniques that can assist and com-

plement the formulation process.

abstract

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12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 23

personal care

formulation process

dispense products from the packaging (e.g. toothpaste from

a tube), etc. However, it can be challenging to have reliable

measurements of the yield point mainly due to experimental

conditions that can affect the result itself. Another issue is that

the yield point relates only to a product’s ability to potentially

suspend particles without considering their physical and mor-

phological characteristics.

Frequency variation tests (also called frequency sweeps) are per-

formed to determine the “viscoelastic ﬁngerprint” of the prod-

ucts, gaining a fundamental understanding of the “storage or

elastic modulus” (G’) and the “loss or viscous modulus” (G’’).

A product with a predominant elastic behaviour (i.e. G’ > G’’)

across the whole spectrum of angular frequencies behaves

more similarly to a solid. To this extent, if such a product is an

emulsion, for instance, one could make assumptions about its

potential to be stable or less prone to let the internal phase

separate.

On the other hand, a product that shows G’’ > G’ across the

whole spectrum of angular frequencies behaves more similarly

to a liquid.

In most cases, however, G’ and G’’ intersect at a given angu-

lar frequency (crossover point), showing a “mixed” viscoelastic

behaviour.

“eta zero” and “eta inﬁnite”, relating respectively to the prod-

uct’s behaviour at rest and during application.

Stress-rate curves can also be seen as the product’s “ﬂow ﬁn-

gerprint”: to this extent, these curves can be conveniently used

as a starting point for benchmarking, as well as to understand

processability features.

Oscillatory techniques are used to gain signiﬁcant insights into

various physical features of the products under development

and can integrate the information obtained from dynamic re-

gime tests.

Four different oscillatory measuring modes can be set up: am-

plitude variation, frequency variation, time dependence, and

temperature dependence.

Amplitude variation tests (also called amplitude or strain

sweeps) are usually performed to determine the so-called LVER

(Linear Visco-Elastic Region) within which other oscillatory tests

need performing, as well as to gain a basic understanding of

the yield point of products additionally or alternatively to dy-

namic techniques.

The yield value is relevant when determining the suspending

power of speciﬁc product formats (e.g. encapsulated active in-

gredients in surfactant-based products), the force required to

content

personal care |

sofwjournal | 150 | 12/24

formulation process

Viscoelastic behaviour can also relate to the “perceived body

or consistency” of the product and the way it feels during its

application: when using a face cream, for example, if the prod-

uct’s structure breaks too quickly upon rubbing it onto the skin,

the product may be perceived as watery and cheap as opposed

to rich and luxurious.

Moreover, the viscoelastic behaviour of emulsions based on

liquid crystals (particularly lamellar type) is also essential to en-

hance the product’s efﬁcacy, as these systems can act as efﬁ-

cient delivery systems for active ingredients.

Frequency Sweeps can also be used to monitor the evolution of

the microstructure as a function of time in systems that build

structure hours or days after manufacture. This is typical of

polymer-based systems (both emulsiﬁed and not), liquid-crys-

tal-based emulsions, mascaras, toothpastes, etc.

As mentioned above, time and temperature variations can be

combined with frequency sweeps to build a variety of ad-hoc

tests that simulate in-use conditions to investigate the be-

haviour of the product under certain external conditions, for

example, structure-breakdown/build-up tests, temperature

sweeps, cyclic tests, etc.

Optical Microscopy

Microscopy can give insights into the microstructure of prod-

ucts: it provides valuable information regarding a variety of

phenomena, for example, potential recrystallisation of poorly

solubilised ingredients (e.g. UV ﬁlters, caffeine, etc.) that can

have a signiﬁcant impact on the product efﬁcacy (e.g. dimin-

ished UVA or UVB protection) and sensory properties (e.g. larg-

er crystals may be felt when spreading a product onto the skin).

Optical microscopy is also helpful in understanding how evenly

insoluble solid particles are dispersed within a cosmetic prod-

uct, for example, ZnO/TiO

in suncare or powders used as sen-

sory modiﬁers.

When equipped with polarised light

ﬁlters, optical microscopes become

essential tools to investigate the

formation of liquid crystalline struc-

tures, which have signiﬁcant impli-

cations at the macroscopic level,

impacting sensory properties, deliv-

ery effectiveness of active ingredi-

ents, and hydration/moisturisation

efﬁcacy of products.

Analytical Centrifugation

This accelerated technique mea-

sures the separation kinetics of the

dispersed phase of emulsions and

other opaque formats through an accurate optical detection

system.

The operating principle of analytical centrifugation is based on

the radial concentration gradients created by centrifugal forces.

Among several instruments available, the LUMiFuge is widely

used in the cosmetic industry since it can process formats with

particle sizes within 10-100 microns, typical of cosmetic mac-

roemulsions.

Fig. 1 Example of a ﬂow curve plotting viscosity VS shear stress

Fig. 1 – Example of a flow curve plotting viscosity VS shear stress

Fig. 2 Example of a temperature sweep showing changes to the inter-

nal structure of the product through G’ and G’’

Fig. 2 – Example of a temperature sweep showing changes to the internal structure of the

product through G’ and G’’

Fig. 3 Demonstrative graph showing the integration of polarised light optical microscopy observations

of liquid crystalline structures with their viscoelastic properties measured through a frequency sweep.

Fig. 3 – Demonstrative graph showing the integration of polarised light optical microscopy

observations of liquid crystalline structures with their viscoelastic properties measured

through a frequency sweep.

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12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 25

personal care

formulation process

ticle size and distribution, which affect product stability [5], as

well as texture and visual appearance.

Particle sizing can be effectively combined with optical micros-

copy, analytical centrifugation, and rheology to gain insights

into cosmetic systems’ microstructure and potential stability.

Surface and Interfacial Tension

Surface tension arises when the surface of a liquid meets a gas,

while interfacial tension is generated between two liquids.

Surface and interfacial tension are typically measured through

three methods: Du Nouy Ring and Wilhelmy Plate are based on

the evaluation of the force required to detach a geometry (a Pt

ring or plate) from a surface or an interface via a tensiometer,

whereas the Pendant Drop Method relies on shape analysis of a

drop of the liquid under investigation hanging from a needle [6].

Surface and interfacial tension measurements can help opti-

mise emulsiﬁed systems (as they can relate to physical stability),

as well as detergents (as a decrease in surface tension leads to

higher foamability) [7,8,9].

This rapid method provides quantitative values for phase sep-

aration through a parameter known as the “instability index”,

ranging between 0 (no separation) and 1 (complete separa-

tion) [1,2].

Using the LUMiFuge is essential to rapidly and accurately eval-

uate the stability of multiple prototypes formulated and decide

which one can proceed to the following stages of formula op-

timisation.

It is also possible to estimate the product shelf life through

mathematical extrapolation.

Moreover, by correlating the results obtained with standard

stability test observations, one can validate LUMiFuge proto-

cols and determine stability index ranges within which a sys-

tem can be deemed “acceptably stable in real life”.

Droplet Size and Distribution

Size and distribution analysis of the droplets forming the in-

ner phase of emulsions can help predict and evaluate physical

stability [3]: the larger the droplet size, the greater the velocity

of creaming or sedimentation, which affects the medium-term

stability of the emulsion [4].

Not only can this technique help

optimise emulsiﬁcation systems,

but also the energy input during

processing: chemistry and concen-

tration of emulsiﬁers, homogeni-

sation speed, and processing time

are, in fact, critical to control par-

Fig. 4 Examples of data obtained through particle sizing (median size), analytical centrifugation (sep-

aration index) and ﬂow curve (eta zero) correlating properties of emulsion-based formulas under de-

velopment aimed at predicting their stability

Fig. 4 – Examples of data obtained through particle sizing (median size), analytical centrifugation

(separation index) and flow curve (eta zero) correlating properties of emulsion-based formulas

under development aimed at predicting their stability

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Conclusions

The main objective of this approach is to formulate cosmetic

products through an integrated process whereby instrumen-

tal analytical techniques are established depending on the

cosmetic format and its expected properties. Ideally, these

techniques need using since the early stages of prototyping:

each sample is formulated as an improvement of the previ-

ous one, also based on the outcomes obtained against the

expected properties, maximising the likelihood of successful-

ly developing innovative products aligned with the brief.

Integrating formulation strategies with ad hoc analytical

techniques can provide further beneﬁts.

It may be possible, for instance, to predict or conﬁrm the re-

sults of standard stability testing while revealing biochemical

instability. In fact, despite successful physical stability test-

ing carried out according to industry guidelines and current

regulatory frameworks, biochemical instability can still occur

personal care formulation process

Moreover, interfacial tension can also be linked with spread-

ability and ingredient penetration, improving sensorial aspects

and the efﬁcacy of cosmetic products [10].

Contact Angle

This is the angle formed at the intersection of a liquid with a

surface [11], for example, a drop of a cosmetic product depos-

ited onto the skin or hair.

The contact angle is measured through image analysis and can

show the product’s wettability and ability to spread onto a sur-

face.

Lower contact angles indicate greater spreadability and may

also suggest improved dispersibility. Contact angle values can

effectively be used to rank raw materials involved in sensorial

modiﬁcation.

Additionally, by determining the contact angle, it is possible

to evaluate how the use of certain ingredients may affect the

coating properties of the ﬁnished product.

When cohesive forces are superior to adhesive forces within a

matrix, product-surface interactions are minimised, and a large

contact angle is obtained, showing the hydrophobicity of the

product, an important attribute when designing a water-resis-

tant formula.

The contact angle of cosmetic products can be measured on

real-life substrates by applying the product onto the surface of

interest (e.g. a hair shaft) and then adding a drop of water: the

contact angle between the drop of water and the substrate

with and without the ﬁnished product is measured [12].

Zeta Potential

Relating to electrostatic repulsions between particles of the in-

ternal phase and how they interact with the external phase,

this parameter plays a crucial role in understanding the stability

of emulsions and suspensions.

Not only does the zeta potential depend on the charges on the

surface of the droplet or particle, but also on the ions present

in the external phase of the system, as well as on the type of

emulsiﬁer used in the formula [13,14].

When comparing emulsions made with different types and con-

centrations of emulsiﬁers, the zeta potential can help optimise

these ingredients, particularly when combined with other tech-

niques such as particle size and distribution measurement. The

larger the zeta potential value, the more stable the product [15].

About us

ME&theCHEMIST

is an innovative

provider of R&D,

Innovation and

Formulation

consultancy

services in the

ﬁeld of Cosmetic

Chemistry, Science

& Technology.

Stemming from a deep academic background in Cosmetology,

Pharmacy, Chemistry, Polymers & Colloids, we have an internation-

al combined experience of 30 years gained working for manufac-

turers of both cosmetic ingredients and ﬁnished products.

Our formulations are fully bespoke to meet our Clients’ very

speciﬁc requirements: we formulate all types and formats of

personal-care and cosmetic products, including natural and

organic certiﬁed.

We also cater for the needs of our little furry friends, and formu-

late pet-care products, including PETA-compliant ones.

With Labs in the beautiful South of Italy and in the green South-

West England, we serve Clients worldwide.

content

personal care

12/24 | 150 | sofwjournal 27

personal care

from the degradation of active compounds when exposed to

environmental factors or from interactions within the matrix,

leading to diminished product efﬁcacy, which can be easily

linked to Brand’s success and reputation, notably when such

claimed efﬁcacy is actual and perceived by consumers.

Product uniqueness can be enhanced, too, due to the optimi-

sation of properties that may increase the chances of actions

aimed at enriching the IP portfolio (e.g. patents).

Instrumental techniques may also help shorten NPD timelines

and reformulate existing products to retain the same features

as the original ones, thus guaranteeing continued commer-

cial success.

Furthermore, when used to objectively validate new or alter-

native ingredients, a more standardised approach can lead

to supply chain and commercial beneﬁts, including cost re-

ductions.

The environmental footprint of products can also be mini-

mised by optimising formulas to avoid ingredients that may

be unnecessary to deliver efﬁcacy.

In the Authors’ opinion, this approach ultimately leads to de-

veloping innovative, optimised, and more efﬁcacious formu-

las, securing successful products “on the shelf.”

References:

[1] Pereira, I.; Zielinska, A.; Ferreira, N.R.; Silva, A.M.; Souto, E.B. Optimization of Lin-

alool-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Using Experimental Factorial Design and

Long-Term Stability Studies with a New Centrifugal Sedimentation Method. Int. J.

Pharm. 2018, 549, 261-270.

[2] Tehrani-Bagha, A.R. Cationic Gemini Surfactant with Cleavable Spacer: Emulsion

Stability. Colloids Surf Physicochem. Eng. Asp. 2016, 508, 79-84.

[3] McClements, D.J. Critical Review of Techniques and Methodologies for Characteri-

zation of Emulsion Stability. Crit. Rev. Food Sci. Nutr. 2007, 47, 611-649.

[4] Niu, H.; Wang, W.; Dou, Z.; Chen, X.; Chen, X.; Chen, H.; Fu, X. Multiscale Com-

bined Techniques for Evaluating Emulsion Stability: A Critical Review. Adv. Colloid

Interface Sci. 2023, 311,102813.

personal care

formulation process

[5] Marquez, R.; Zwilling, J.; Zambrano, F.; Tolosa, L.; Marquez, M.E.; Venditti, R.; Ja-

meel, H.; Gonzalez, R. Nanoparticles and Essential Oils with Antiviral Activity on

Packaging and Surfaces: An Overview of Their Selection and Application. J. Surfac-

tants Deterg. 2022, 25, 667-701.

[6] Marquez, R.; Ontiveros, J.F.; Barrios, N.; Tolosa, L.; Palazzo, G.; Nardello-Rataj, V.;

Salager, J.L. Advantages and Limitations of Different Methods to Determine the

Optimum Formulation in Surfactant- Oil-Water Systems: A Review. J. Surfactants

Deterg. 2023.

[7] Delforce, L.; Ontiveros, J.F.; Nardello-Rataj, V.; Aubry, J.-M. Rational Design of

O/W Nanoemulsions Based on the Surfactant Dodecyldiglyceryl Ether Using the

Normalised HLD Concept and the Formulation-Composition Map. Colloids Surf.

Physicochem. Eng. Asp. 2023, 671, 131679.

[8] Delforce, L.; Nardello-Rataj, V.; Lebeuf, R.; Aubry, J.-M.; Ontiveros, J.F. Self-Ag-

gregation, Dilational Surface Rheology and Foaming Properties of 1-O-Dodecyl

Diglyceryl Ether Compared to n-Dodecyl-13- D-Maltoside and Pentaethyleneglycol

Monododecyl Ether. J. Mal. Liq. 2023, 388,122795.

[9] Labarre, L.; Squillace, O.; Liu, Y.; Fryer, P.J.; Kaur, P.; Whitaker, S.; Marsh, J.M.;

Zhang, Z.J. Hair Surface Interactions against Different Chemical Functional Groups

as a Function of Environment and Hair Condition. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2023, 45,

224-235.

[10] Eudier, F.; Savary, G.; Grisel, M.; Picard, C. Skin Surface Physico-Chemistry: Charac-

teristics,Methods of Measurement, Influencing Factors and Future Developments.

Adv. Colloid Interface Sci. 2019, 264, 11-27.

[11] Rossi, D.; Realdon, N. Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterise Cosmet-

ic Products in the Beauty Sector. In Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics;

John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.: Hoboken, NJ, USA, 2021; pp. 309-352. ISBN 978-1-119-

65492-6.

[12] Beard, B.C.; Hare, J. Surface interaction of quaternary amines with hair. J. Surfact

Deterg. 2002, 5, 145-150.

[13] Sek, A.; Perczyk, P.; Wydro, P.; Gruszecki, W.I.; Szczes, A. Effect of Trace Amow1ts

of Ionic Surfactants on the Zeta Potential of DPPC Liposomes. Chem. Phys. Lipids

2021, 235, 105059.

[14] Hong, I.K.; Kim, S.I.; Lee, S.B. Effects of HLB Value on Oil-in-Water Emulsions:

Droplet Size, Rheological Behavior, Zeta-Potential, and Creaming Index. J. Ind. Eng.

Chem. 2018, 67, 123-131.

[15] Li, D.; Zhao, Y.; Wang, X.; Tang, H.; Wu, N.; Wu, F.; Yu, D.; Elfalleh, W. Effects of

(+)-Catechin on a Rice Bran Protein Oil-in-Water Emulsion: Droplet Size, Zeta-Po-

tential, Emulsifying Properties, and Rheological Behavior. Food Hydrocoll. 2020, 98,

105306.

authors

Dr Sara De Mattia, Dr Andrea Mitarotonda

ME&theCHEMIST Cosmetic Consultancy Labs, United Kingdom

Corresponding Author:

Dr Sara De Mattia | research-labs@meandthechemist.com

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AGARWOOD RESINS  ( ) ()

CALAMBAC key component of Japanese, Chinese

Siddha, Ayurvedic Arabic, Hebrew, Greek

Traditional Medicine, Aromatherapy, Religious

Medicinal Incense-Fumigation and Perfumeries

known by various names Calambac, Agallocha

Resins., White Qi-Nam, Ky Bach, in various cultures

沈香樹脂、

、

う

じ

ゅ

く

こ

う

熔

融

树脂

脂

奇

楠

, White Qi Nan -白奇楠"

Bach Ky nam    . www.wodeyar.org

factors. The natural content such as nutrients and

many useful minerals are abundant in the herbs.

AGARWOOD RESINS  ( ) ()

CALAMBAC key component of Japanese, Chinese,

Siddha, Ayurvedic Arabic, Hebrew, Greek

Traditional Medicine, Aromatherapy, Religious

Medicinal Incense-Fumigation and Perfumeries

known by various names Calambac, Agallocha

Resins., Qi-Nam, Ky Bach, in various cultures .

沈香樹脂、

、

う

じ

ゅ

く



こ

う



熔

融

树脂

脂

奇

楠











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Fruit Enzymes Powder & Liquid Bath

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Human Skin Micro-Biome Gentle and Oral Micro-Biome Gentle

enhances any skin as functional moisturizer, skin whitener, skin repair, skin

protector from solar UV and electronic devices’ artificial blue light as topical

cosmetic high performance anti-photo aging actions, skin-

whitening repair

action against UV & Blue Light caused black spots & black heads with high

performance UV repelling

and UV protection actions at sea levels and in

planes’ flights’ at high altitudes. Wash-

off and protects from environmental

pollutants.

TTheBBotanicalPPreservative

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A Novel Honeysuckle Flower

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Campo Botanical Propolis, a

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derived from Honeysuckle

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mixture available as in Stiff

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Let’s discover our magical ingredients!

您您

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CAMPO PLANTSERVATIVE WSr

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忍冬（金银花）萃取液

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A Novel plant based preservative

(water-soluble) for cosmetic formulations

独创的植物防腐剂(水溶性)适用于化妆品配方

CAMPO PLANTSERVATIVE WMr (Jojoba Oil)

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

忍冬（金银花）萃取液

TSCA Listed │ FEMA GRAS Listed │ DHHS Listed

A Novel plant based preservative

(lipo/oil soluble) for cosmetic formulations

独创的植物防腐剂(脂 / 油溶性）适用于化妆品配方

Discover our magical skin lightening for Asian skin, lightening of

age-spot, sun-spot & freckle-spot management for Caucasian skin

发

现

我

们

神

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的

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肤

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白

技

术

减

淡

亚

洲

人

的

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肤

老

年

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日

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以

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100% Natural Botanical High Purity Permanent Hair – Botanical Colors.

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MANUKA ETHOBOTANY BIODIVERSITY

Commonly referred to as Manuka, Leptospermum

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Zealand. Apart from its traditional use, the extract

has also been noted to ameliorate skin problems

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SONGYI MUSHROOM

松茸蘑菇

Extensive research in our USA laboratories has provided a breakthrough in skincare technology.

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更加白净，还能有效减少皱纹。以上效果经过临床证实。

Colorante-Naturel

天天然然色色剂剂

Functional Cosmetics Ingredients

from Indian Medicinal Herbs

提取自印度药草的功能型化妆品原料

WATER SOLUBLE LIQUIDS 水水溶溶性性液液体体

Brown Red 棕红 Brown 棕 Violet (Blue-reddish) 紫

Green 绿 Red Deep 深红 Ultra Sky Blue 天蓝

White Pearlescent 珍珠白 Red Light 浅红

Dark Ultra Brilliant Yellow 深黄 Yellow Light 浅黄

Dark Black 黑

WATER SOLUBLE POWDERS 水水溶溶性性粉粉末末

Dark Brown深棕 Violet (Blue-reddish) 紫

Light Green 浅绿 Dark Orange深橙

Dark Ultra Brilliant Yellow 深黄 Yellow Light 浅黄Ultra

Sky Blue 天蓝 Deep Red 深红 Light Red 浅红

Rose Pink粉红 Dark Black 黑

LIPO & OIL SOLUBLE LIQUIDS 脂脂//油油溶溶性性液液体体

Brown 棕 Red 红 Natural Yellow 纯黄 Green 绿

Red Light / Scarlet Red 鲜红 Ultra Sky Blue 天蓝

Dark Black 黑

OIL SOLUBLE POWDER 油油溶溶性性粉粉末末

Brown 棕 Yellow 黄 Green 绿 Red 红

Ultra Sky Blue 天蓝 Dark Black 黑

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AGARWOOD RESINS  ( ) ()

CALAMBAC key component of Japanese, Chinese

Siddha, Ayurvedic Arabic, Hebrew, Greek

Traditional Medicine, Aromatherapy, Religious

Medicinal Incense-Fumigation and Perfumeries

known by various names Calambac, Agallocha

Resins., White Qi-Nam, Ky Bach, in various cultures

沈香樹脂、、ううじじゅゅくくここうう熔熔融融树脂脂奇奇楠楠, White Qi Nan -白奇楠"

Bach Ky nam    . www.wodeyar.org

factors. The natural content such as nutrients and

many useful minerals are abundant in the herbs.

AGARWOOD RESINS  ( ) ()

CALAMBAC key component of Japanese, Chinese,

Siddha, Ayurvedic Arabic, Hebrew, Greek

Traditional Medicine, Aromatherapy, Religious

Medicinal Incense-Fumigation and Perfumeries

known by various names Calambac, Agallocha

Resins., Qi-Nam, Ky Bach, in various cultures .

沈香樹脂、、ううじじゅゅくく

ここうう熔熔融融树脂脂奇奇楠楠..\\11DDPP

   ., www.wodeyar.org

Fruit Enzymes Powder & Liquid Bath

Body Care, Hair Care & Oral Care Concentrate

Human Skin Micro-Biome Gentle and Oral Micro-Biome Gentle

enhances any skin as functional moisturizer, skin whitener, skin repair, skin

protector from solar UV and electronic devices’ artificial blue light as topical

cosmetic high performance anti-photo aging actions, skin-whitening repair

action against UV & Blue Light caused black spots & black heads with high

performance UV repelling and UV protection actions at sea levels and in

planes’ flights’ at high altitudes. Wash-off and protects from environmental

pollutants.

heBBotanicalPPreservative

Fruit Enzymes Powder & Liquid Bath Body Care Hair-Care-&-Oral-Care Concentrate

Enzymes (fruit-derived detergency enzymes-encapsulated)

DDoo yyoouu hhaavvee 110000%% nnaattuurraall??

CAMPO

BOTANICAL PROPOLIS

A Novel Honeysuckle Flower

Buds Non-Ionic Emulsifying

Botanical Propolis

Campo Botanical Propolis, a

Natural Botanical Emulsifier

derived from Honeysuckle

Flower Buds, is a resinous

mixture available as in Stiff

Soft Wax and as Liquid Wax

which exudes honeysuckle

flower buds' sweet syrup sap.

Let’s discover our magical ingredients!

您您想想拥拥有有110000%%纯纯天天然然吗吗？？

让让我我们们为为您您揭揭开开其其中中的的奥奥秘秘！！

CAMPO PLANTSERVATIVE WSr

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

忍冬（金银花）萃取液

TSCA Listed │ FEMA GRAS Listed │ DHHS Listed

A Novel plant based preservative

(water-soluble) for cosmetic formulations

独创的植物防腐剂(水溶性)适用于化妆品配方

CAMPO PLANTSERVATIVE WMr (Jojoba Oil)

Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

忍冬（金银花）萃取液

TSCA Listed │ FEMA GRAS Listed │ DHHS Listed

A Novel plant based preservative

(lipo/oil soluble) for cosmetic formulations

独创的植物防腐剂(脂 / 油溶性）适用于化妆品配方

Discover our magical skin lightening for Asian skin, lightening of

age-spot, sun-spot & freckle-spot management for Caucasian skin

发发现现我我们们神神奇奇的的皮皮肤肤亮亮白白技技术术,,减减淡淡亚亚洲洲人人的的皮皮肤肤老老年年斑斑,, 日日光光晒晒斑斑,,以以及及白白种种人人皮皮肤肤的的雀雀斑斑

AYURVEDIC ETHOBOTANY BIODIVERSITY

Ayurvedic herbs are a key component of

Ayurveda, the traditional practice of medicine of

India. The knowledge of medicinal plants used is

well known for its culture and tradition. The

science of Ayurveda had utilized many herbs

and floras for beautification and protection

from external factors. The natural content such

as nutrients and many useful minerals are

abundant in the herbs.