
Western Confluence 33
MANAGEMENT INNOVATIONS
believed the canyon was immune
from being overrun. However,
in the 30-plus years since rock
climbers with ropes saddled over
their shoulders rst burrowed into
these forests, word of the canyon as a
treasure chest of routes waiting to be
established has spread.
Since the 1980s, climbers have
developed more than 1,200 climbing
routes in the Tensleep Canyon area.
Aer local climber Aaron Huey
and others compiled The Mondo
Beyondo: Tensleep Canyon,
Wyoming, the rst published
guidebook to the canyon in 2008,
climbers and route developers
ocked to the area. Today, climbers
from around the world have
discovered the canyon, making it
the central jewel in the crown of any
self-respecting sport rock climber.
Still many local climbers would have
preferred the jewels stay a secret.
e surge in popularity has
brought problems. Heavy trac and
illegal parking along the Cloud Peak
Skyway (Hwy 16) and Forest Road
18 create safety concerns. A weaving
network of unapproved trails to crags
is eroding soil. Dispersed camping
sites close to waterways and the
road are on the rise. Uncontrolled
dogs run amuck. Masses of climbers
inadvertently spread invasive plant
species such as houndstongue and
Canada thistle, in addition to leaving
behind human and pet waste and
lier. At the base of climbing walls,
staging areas have compacted soil
and damaged shrubs and grasses.
Boisterous crowds interfere with
nesting raptors.
Recognizing that recreation
was on the increase, in 2005 the
Bighorn National Forest published
a Forest Land and Natural Resource
Management Plan announcing
that within 10 years a climbing
management plan would, “inventory
existing rock-climbing routes
including approach, associated trail
locations, and human impact,” in
Tensleep Canyon.
In 2011, the Access Fund,
a national climbing advocacy
organization, created a Tensleep
Canyon stewardship group, now
known as the Bighorn Climbers’
Coalition, to work with the Bighorn
National Forest on the climbing
management plan. e Access Fund’s
goal was to collaboratively develop a
plan “that both preserves the current
climbing experience at Ten Sleep
[sic], while conserving the resource
for future generations.”
However, 2015 came and went
and the promised plan had yet to be
created. By the time Ranta and his
buddies witnessed manufactured
holds and chipped rock in Tensleep
Canyon in 2018, it was not unusual
to nd climbers from around the
world crowding at the base of the
crags, anxiously waiting their turn.
In that same year the Access Fund
included Tensleep Canyon as one
of “10 Climbing Areas in Crisis,”
noting that “world-class climbing”
invited crowds too great for the area
to sustain.
As the popularity of rock climbing
grew in Tensleep Canyon, so did
the number of route developers
looking to leave their mark on the
limestone walls. is was not without
controversy. For those not in the
climbers’ sphere, establishing a
new route is the magnum opus for
many climbers, the pinnacle of their
progression and status in the climber
community. Seing or developing a
sport rock climbing route involves
drilling holes into the rock and
inserting bolts along an ideal
line that is safe and appropriately
challenging. Ideally, route seers
do this with minimal impact to
natural geology, ora, and fauna
of the rock face. ey may “clean”
the route, which generally involves
brushing aside loose rock, vegetation,
debris, lichens, and moss. ey may
also “comfortize” hand holds by
smoothing and sanding sharp edges
typical of the Bighorn Mountains to
minimize torn and bloody climbers’
hands.
Generally, cleaning and
comfortizing in dolomite and
limestone are considered acceptable
modications by modern climbers,
but the “manufacturing” Ranta and
his buddies encountered in 2018
is not. e Access Fund denes
manufacturing (a practice which they
oppose) as “any conscious aempt
to expand a hold, create a new hold
(drilling pockets, expanding a pocket
with a tool, creating a hold with
glue), reinforcing loose holds with
glue, or adding/placing an articial
hold on the wall in an aempt to
curate a climbing movement or
experience, or to create a route other
than what is naturally available.”
e conundrum is in the ne line
between “cleaning and comfortizing,”
which many climbers accept, and
“manufacturing,” which many
climbers oppose.
In an aempt to self-regulate
in Tensleep Canyon, Ranta
and other climbers approached
world-renowned route developer
and owner of a nearby climber
campground Louie Anderson, who
they suspected of manufacturing.
e actual words exchanged during
the June 30, 2018, meeting are
forever lost, with only contradictory
recollections remaining. e gist was
to agree upon what was and was not
acceptable for comfortizing routes
in Tensleep Canyon and put a stop
to manufacturing. However, route
manufacturing continued.
e Bighorn Climbers’
Coalition and the Access Fund
denounced the manufacturing. In
addition, three original Tensleep
Canyon route developers—Charlie
Kardale, Aaron Huey, and JB
Haab—posted an open leer
condemning the practice on the
Tensleep Canyon Facebook page.
Taking the debate to a national
audience, Rock and Ice magazine
published the leer in 2019. In
addition, citizens reported the
damage caused by the manufacturing
to the Forest Service, believing that it
was the Forest Service’s role to stop
the practice.
In July 2019, a few climbers,
frustrated by the Forest Service’s
failure to police the manufacturing,
closed manufactured routes by
removing bolts, clipping bolts
ush with the rock surface, lling
holds with glue, and axing bright
red padlocks to the lowest bolts.
If the intent was to generate a
reaction, that intent was met. e
Forest Service, the Access Fund,
and Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition
quickly condemned the bolt cuing
and padlocks, which escalated
tensions and further divided
The dolomite clis in Tensleep Canyon, Wyoming, are home to
over a thousand sport rock climbing routes.
Flickr user James St. John