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CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 1
From Trends to Transformation: Investigating Consumer Awareness and Behavior as
Drivers Behind the Rise of Fast Fashion and the Circular Shopping Economy
Emma Tanner
TC 660H
Plan II Honors Program
The University of Texas at Austin
December 2023
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Luisa Gil-Fandino
Department of Textiles and Apparel
Supervising Professor
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Jonathan Y. Chen, Ph.D
Department of Textiles and Apparel
Second Reader
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Abstract
Author: Emma Tanner
Title: From Trends to Transformation: Investigating Consumer Awareness and Behavior as
Drivers Behind the Rise of Fast Fashion and the Circular Shopping Economy
Supervising Professor: Luisa F Gil-Fandino
This thesis explores the global ascent of fast fashion, investigating its significant impact
on textile and garment production and the resultant environmental consequences stemming from
accelerated production processes. It identifies the environmental and ethical ramifications of the
stages of the linear garment lifecycle, offering a comprehensive perspective of the modern
fashion industry.
Through an exploration of consumer awareness and behavior, this paper uncovers the
influential role played by consumers in driving the proliferation of fast fashion practices.
Consumer shifts toward affordable, trendy clothing have propelled the fast fashion industry,
reflecting the direct link between consumer choices and fashion production. Furthermore, this
thesis investigates the paradoxical relationship between the sustainability advocacy of consumers
and their concurrent engagement in consumption habits that perpetuate an unsustainable “take,
make, dispose” clothing cycle.
By delving into consumer dynamics and psychology, this research unravels the
underlying motivations that drive fashion consumers' purchasing decisions. It subsequently
evaluates how past consumer behavior has effectively instigated shifts toward sustainable
initiatives within the fashion industry, particularly through engagement with the secondhand
fashion market. Furthermore, past consumer affinity for secondhand fashion companies is
analyzed to glean insights into strategies that sustainable brands can adopt to enhance consumer
engagement and participation.
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Acknowledgements
I would like to thank all those who have assisted me in the completion of this project, for
those who have inspired passion in me, and those who have contributed to the educational
experiences I have been so fortunate to enjoy throughout my life.
Thank you to my parents, who have always supported me and shown me unconditional
love. To my dad, who helps me believe I can truly do anything and whose love and moral
example have always been guiding forces in my life. To my mom, who teaches me selflessness
and kindness in everything she does. Thank you both for your hard work, patience, and love.
There are not words to express how grateful I am to have you as my parents.
Thank you to my family and friends, who are a constant source of encouragement and
understanding. Their unwavering support has been an essential part of this journey, and for that I
am sincerely thankful.
Thank you to my thesis advisors, Professor Gil Fandino and Dr. Chen, whose dedication
and expertise have been instrumental in completing this project. I am deeply appreciative of the
invaluable time you devoted to assisting and guiding me throughout this past year of research.
Your wealth of knowledge, unwavering commitment, and invaluable guidance have been
integral to this endeavor. Thank you for your continuous support and direction.
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Table of Contents
Abstract 2
Introduction 6
Chapter 1: Fast Fashion and the Linear Economy Model 8
A Brief History 8
Comprehending the Fast Fashion Industry 9
Take, Make, Dispose: The Lifecycle of a Garment 14
Raw Material Extraction 16
Plastic and Polyester 19
Fabric Manufacturing 21
Water Pollution 21
Clothing Manufacturing 24
Exploitation of Garment Workers 25
Retailing 26
Use 26
End of Life 27
Excessive Consumption and Textile Waste 28
Chapter 2: What is Sustainable Fashion? 31
Ethical and Secondhand fashion 33
Chapter 3: Consumer sentiment towards sustainability in fashion 35
Consumer Buying Habits in the Fashion Industry 36
The Sustainable Consumer 37
The Millennial and Gen Z Consumer 38
The Interplay of Consumer Behavior and Purchasing Habits 41
The Attitude-behavior Gap 43
The Attitude-behavior Gap and Eco-Friendly Products 43
Factors that Influence Purchasing Habits 44
Affordability and Price 44
Ease of Purchase and Convenience 48
Social Pressures 50
Chapter 4: Reshaping Consumer Behavior: The Role of Online
Resale Platforms in the Rise of Sustainable Fashion 53
Online Resale Platforms 53
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Depop: The People’s Platform 54
The RealReal: The Luxury Player 56
thredUp: The Resale Synthesis 58
Conclusion 61
References 63
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Introduction
Due to its unsustainable use of key environmental resources, fast fashion has become a
“hot button” global issue in recent years. Consumers have criticized fast fashion and its
perpetuation of harmful production practices, inspiring movements toward more sustainable
fashion brands and practices. However, the overall sentiment of consumer behavior has
continued to support an increase in textile and garment production in recent decades, despite
increasing consumer education and awareness regarding the detrimental environmental effects of
the linear fashion economy. The beliefs and practices of younger generations are particularly
fascinating: young people of today seem to care the most about sustainability and renewable
practices, yet engage in consumption activities that are in misalignment with these beliefs.
The fashion industry is driven by consumer preferences, constantly evolving to best fit
consumer needs and desires. In recent years, consumer preferences have shifted to demand
trendy and inexpensive clothing, rather than high-quality and hand-crafted goods. This has
spurred the development of the fast fashion industry, which indicates a direct relationship
between consumer preferences and fashion industry practices. Brands like Shein and Zara, who
are known to practice fast fashion production and produce large amounts of textile waste as a
result, have become some of the most popular clothing brands in the world, bringing in billions
of dollars in revenue. These brands are especially popular among younger generations, who tend
to consume clothing at increased rates and support consumption practices that lead to increased
waste.
The development of fast fashion into the massive industry that it is today has resulted
in incredible amounts of pollution and detrimental environmental effects. In order to keep
production costs as low as possible, companies often seek out the cheapest materials, labor,
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and manufacturing. As a result, retailers compromise ethical and moral ideals in order to make
the most revenue. One of the most concerning examples of this is the manner in which
clothing production has a severely negative effect on the environment. Whether it’s the
materials used to produce clothing, the manner in which production waste is disposed of, or
how clothes are discarded once consumers are finished wearing them, the waste produced by
the clothing industry is truly alarming. Due to the production methods of the fast fashion
industry and the waste that results from end-of-life disposal of textile goods, the fashion
industry has become a major contributor to global pollution and waste.
Throughout this paper, I will investigate the role of consumer awareness and behaviors in
perpetuating fast fashion practices and the negative environmental impacts they generate. I
intend to analyze how consumer demands and preferences heavily influence fashion production
practices and how there has emerged a stark contrast between what consumers claim to care
about and what they actually purchase. I will analyze how the role of consumer behavior and
consumer beliefs conflict and how that impacts the fashion industry and the development of
fashion practices.
Furthermore, I will also analyze the rise of the sustainable consumer in recent years,
researching how consumer sentiment has driven the fashion industry towards more sustainable
practices through the advancement of specific sectors, such as secondhand and rental clothing. I
will discuss the ways in which consumer behavior has been important in driving the rise of the
sustainable fashion sector, and how such behavior can further perpetuate the advancement of
sustainable fashion initiatives.
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Chapter 1: Fast Fashion and the Linear Economy Model
A Brief History
So, where did this all begin? Humans have been wearing clothing since before recorded
history, but the nature of the modern garment industry can largely be accredited to the ready-
made clothing industry. Ready-made clothing refers to mass produced garments which are not
tailored to fit an individual consumer. The ready-made clothing industry can trace its roots back
to Great Britain during the pre-Industrial Revolution era. During the seventeenth century, the
demand for ready-made garments and clothing made in mass production was heavily influenced
by the rise of “slop shops” – second-hand clothing stores offering already-made garments. These
slop shops – comparable to the modern thrift store – grew in popularity during the late 1600s and
1700s. Most shoppers who frequented these stores were of lower economic status, as they did not
have the time nor the income necessary to produce their own clothing. These second-hand shops
provided an alternative to traditional methods of acquiring clothing, and thus generated a demand
among consumers for ready-made clothing. To compete in this new garment market defined by
the demand generated by slop shops, tailor shops also began to produce ready-made clothing. As
early as the late seventeenth century, ready-made petticoats became staples in tailor retailers and
thus allowed the demand for ready-made clothing to further advance.
Though it is commonly believed that the introduction of powered machinery – such as the
powered spinning machine and the sewing machine – was the main driver of the
transformation of the garment production industry; in reality, it was the introduction of
standard sizes which prompted the development of the ready-made industry. Before standard
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sizes, all garments were custom-made to each individual’s measurements, meaning it was
impossible for garments to be mass-produced. Once standard sizes were developed and the
demand for ready-made clothing grew, the type of garments that could be produced in mass
were somewhat limited to loose-fitting, shapeless frocks. Smocks quickly became a staple
ready-made garment long before the introduction of mechanization. Though many associate
the rise of advanced machinery with the development of mass clothing production, it is
necessary to note the forces which drove the advancement of the ready-made clothing
industry were not initially technological. This provides an interesting perspective to analyze
the advancement of the garment industry in subsequent years, as the garment industry is “one
of the few manufacturing sectors which appears to have little structural responsiveness to
technological changes” (Godley, 1997).
These cultural changes and the development of a demand for ready-made clothing
altered the course of the development of the garment industry, eventually leading to the rise of
what is now known as the fashion industry. In turn, the fashion industry developed into what
is now known as the “fast fashion” industry – the leading method of clothing production in the
21st century.
Comprehending the Fast Fashion Industry
In short, fast fashion refers to the sped-up production of garments by clothing
companies. Fast fashion is highly trend-based, causing companies to take designs from luxury
retailers and reproduce an interpretation of those designs in order to sell them to consumers at a
much lower cost: “the key ingredient of fast fashion is the ability to track consumer preferences
quickly and to identify potentially popular new designs through proximity to fashion markets,
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fashion images, and fashion makers. [Fast fashion] …. is adapted from existing designs and
produced in different types of materials, colors, and silhouettes” (Doeringer & Crean, 2006).
Annually, companies are able to produce and sell thousands of garments at low costs
by using cheap labor, cost-effective materials, and efficient production methods. Since its
inception, the clothing industry has been characterized as a low-capital and labor-intensive
market. As technology has improved in recent centuries and globalization has increased,
apparel companies have shifted the majority of their production to developing countries,
where lower-cost labor can be found in abundance and governments lack the structure to
establish and enforce advanced production regulations (Klein, 2000). The rise in fast fashion
can be mainly accredited to fashion companies transporting production to overseas locations,
which enables retailers to sell their products at much lower price points. This change mainly
took place during the 1970s through the 1980s, when large clothing manufacturers replaced
their domestic manufacturing practices to focus their local resources on product design, global
supply chain management, and advertising. By the middle of the 1980s, the system of mass
apparel production that existed in the United States had predominantly shifted to overseas
locations. In the modern era, large garment production companies operate within massive
global supply chains, and seventy-four percent of American apparel consumption can be
attributed to foreign imports. Any garment production that still operates within the United
States is mainly attributed to small companies and producers who cater to niche markets and
complete order sizes which are too small-scale for mass manufacture to be beneficial (Utomi
et al. 2023). Comparative advantage can account for a majority of the push behind
manufacturers moving apparel production to overseas locations, but the decisions of large
clothing companies and manufacturers contributed heavily to the severity at which the United
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States apparel industry weakened and the timing at which such a decline took place.
Following World War II, manufacturers took advantage of the newfound efficiencies of bulk
production techniques (Doerigner & Crean, 2006). As the speed at which garments could be
produced increased, clothing manufacturers were able to significantly decrease lead-times,
decrease the number of products in each order, and in turn increase the quantity of orders that
could be submitted within a season to respond to consumer demand. Thus, the clothing
manufacturing market set the stage for the emergence of the fast fashion industry.
The fast fashion apparel industry was primarily developed as a response to rapidly
changing consumer preferences. Fast fashion was created in order to meet the desires of
young women whose preferences and style trends were quickly changing. Since these women
typically have limited disposable income, they desired a cheaper alternative to the high-end
catwalk and couture looks they were seeing online. Before the concept of fast fashion was
popularized, companies were constantly burdened with leftover inventories. Because
companies could not produce garments at rapid speeds, retailers had to place huge orders to
meet the demand of a whole season’s worth of consumers. This usually meant that companies
would inaccurately predict trends and produced clothing that consumers simply wouldn’t buy.
In 1987, fashion forecasters predicted that the miniskirt was making a comeback.
However, the miniskirt did not, in actuality, make a comeback. This meant that clothing retailers
were laden with mass amounts of leftover stock due to their misinterpretation of upcoming
trends. In an attempt to prevent such mistakes from happening, companies started to heavily
invest in trend research and professional forecasting in order to better predict what consumers
would be wearing in the future. Due to the long lead times and huge inventory orders placed by
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clothing companies, retailers would end up overbuying garments and be forced to constantly
have sales in order to get rid of their stock (Cline, 2013). Thus, companies fell into a repetitive
cycle of mis-predicting trends, ordering huge amounts of stock that wouldn’t sell, and then
having frequent sales to attempt and clear the unpopular inventory. In order to fix this problem,
manufacturers had to alter their supply chains in order to better meet consumer demand and react
more quickly to the variability of the market. As a result, the new fast fashion method of
producing clothing disrupted the established pyramid of the fashion industry, as shown in Figure
1. Before the method of fast fashion apparel production was established, consumers could only
access high fashion garments at a high cost. Today, consumers can go to almost any retailer and
find a reproduction of high fashion garments at a fraction of the cost, due to the companies’
ability to capitalize on fashion trends as a result of their rapid production methods. Because the
fast fashion method of production is a “streamlined system involving rapid design, production,
distribution, and marketing,” fast fashion giants such as Forever21 and Zara have the ability to
increase product variety while decreasing the quantity of products being produced in the supply
chain (Cohen, 2011). Thus, fast fashion companies have altered the previously established
fashion pyramid (Figure 1) by enabling buyers to access greater product differentiation at a
lower price point.
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Figure 1. Fashion Pyramid. (Doeringer & Crean 2005).
The concept of fast fashion was first popularized by Zara, a now multi billion-dollar
company founded in Spain. Zara – along with other European-based companies – developed
their business model in an attempt to keep up with quickly changing preferences and trends of
younger women with limited disposable income. Zara created the concept of “micro seasons,”
altering the long-established four season guideline to create fifty-two micro seasons. This
means that Zara introduces new products into its stores every single week, rather than four
times a year. But Zara is not the only one doing this; Forever 21 and H&M receive daily
shipments of new styles, and the London-based brand Topshop introduces a mind-boggling
four hundred new styles per week online.9
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In order to produce these garments, companies have developed into highly complex
networks of different sectors, all operating under one system known as a company’s supply
chain. The supply chain includes every step that goes into creating a garment, such as
designing the clothing, purchasing or making the fabric, sewing the garment, and shipping it
to its final destination (either to brick-and-mortar stores or directly to customers). The time it
takes for a garment to go through the entire supply chain – including the purchasing of the
garment by a consumer –is known as the lead-time. Time sensitivity is extremely important
in the fast fashion industry, and companies take great care in decreasing lead-time. The
shorter the lead-time, the more frequently companies can renew their stock, resulting in
customers shopping for and buying their products more often. While it may seem as if this
method of production – selling so many products at so low cost – would be unprofitable for
businesses, it seems to be the only way for companies to maximize their profits, as fast
fashion companies have more than twice the average profit margin of more traditional
counterparts (Cline, 2012).
Thus, the fast fashion model has become the modern standard for clothing production.
The manner in which garments are now produced and disposed of poses a great threat to the
environment due to the multitude of ecological problems caused by the production, use, and
disposal of textiles.
Take, Make, Dispose: The Lifecycle of a Garment
The clothing life cycle model offers a valuable framework for comprehending the linear
production cycle within the fashion industry and assessing the environmental repercussions at
each stage of the garment’s creation (Munasinghe et al. 2021). This model breaks down the
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journey of a piece of clothing into distinct phases, from raw material extraction and
manufacturing to transportation, retail, and eventual disposal. These phases can be succinctly
summed up in the phrase “take, make, dispose,” which is generally used to understand the
process of linear economy production. “Take” refers to the extraction of raw materials; “make”
refers to the manufacturing or production of goods using these materials; and “dispose” relates to
the final stage where products are used and eventually discarded (Elisha, 2020). Value is
generated in this linear economic model by maximizing production and sales of products, which
often means companies opt for the cheapest materials and labor in order to optimize earnings.
Figure 2: The life cycle model of a fashion garment (Munasinghe et al. 2021)
By scrutinizing each stage of the life cycle of a garment within the linear economy, it
becomes evident that the fashion industry’s linear production model is resource-intensive and
environmentally taxing. The model highlights the extraction of raw materials, such as cotton or
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synthetic fibers, and their energy-intensive transformation into textiles as an initial
environmental burden. Subsequently, the extensive transportation of garments across the globe
amplifies carbon footprints. Finally, the disposal of textiles in landfills contributes to significant
solid-waste pollution. Understanding this life cycle provides insight into the extensive
environmental impact of the linear model of fashion production and how the continued consumer
support of fast fashion brands utilizing this model of production perpetuates environmental harm
caused by the fashion industry.
Raw Material Extraction
The raw materials used in manufacturing clothing are typically either a single or a blend
of different fibers (i.e. a poly-cotton blend, which is a mix of cotton and polyester fibers). As
shown in Figure 3, textile fibers are organized into natural fibers and manufactured fibers, which
includes synthetic, regenerated cellulosic, inorganic and recycled fibers.
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Figure 3: Types of textile fibers (Munasinghe et al. 2021)
The process of raw material extraction differs depending upon what type of fibers are
being used. The process of obtaining natural vegetable fibers begins with agricultural cultivation
in order to produce raw materials such as cotton or bamboo. On the other hand, the process of
extracting manufactured materials (such as polyester and nylon) involves the use of petro-
chemicals. Depending on the type of material used during the raw extraction phase, the amount
and type of resources used differs. For example, the agricultural manufacturing of cotton requires
significant water usage (2,100 to 34,923 liters of water per one kg of raw material) while petro-
chemicals require substantial energy use and involve the release of harmful chemicals into the
environment. The generation of acrylic, for example, requires an energy use of 175 MJ/kg of
material, necessitating much more energy for production as opposed to a fiber like Pakistani
recycled cotton, which comparatively utilizes 1.89 MJ/kg of raw material at the raw material
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extraction stage (Munasinghe et al. 2021). Silk is the fiber with the highest environmental impact
overall at this stage of the garment life cycle, due to the mulberry farming phase (Giacomin et
al., 2017). In order to produce just 1 kg of silk, 187 kg of mulberry leaves are required to be
grown as feedstock for the silkworms that generate the fiber (Hogeboom and Hoekstra, 2017).
The conventional silk production process results in significant greenhouse gas emissions,
primarily due to the extensive use of manure and fertilizers for mulberry leaf cultivation, as well
as the reliance on coal for energy in many sericulture facilities that need power to maintain
boiling water and steam production. Figure 4 displays the environmental impacts of raw material
extraction of various fibers, analyzing factors such as greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, energy
use and water use. While the table does not detail the specific processes that lead to the usage of
water, energy, or the emission of greenhouse gasses, it is useful in understanding how the
extraction of raw materials alone can incur great environmental impacts within the larger context
of clothing production.
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Figure 4: Environmental impacts incurred from raw material extraction of various textiles
(Munasinghe et al. 2021)
Plastic and Polyester
A few of the most popular synthetic materials used in clothing today are polyester,
acrylic, and nylon textiles – these materials make up about sixty percent of all clothing
products, meaning the majority of our clothing is made of plastic products. If you look at the
tag on almost any piece of clothing you may own, you will likely find one of these synthetic
materials, and you will likely find a high percentage of it. Synthetic fibers naturally gained
popularity as the fast fashion industry gained momentum due to their accessibility and low
production costs. Polyester itself is one of the most popular manufactured synthetic fibers due
its variability and low cost. It alone contributes to over eighty percent of synthetic fibers and
in 2016, polyester fiber production was estimated to be around fifty-two million tons.
However, polyester is incredibly harmful to the environment in these aspects: the manner in
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which it is produced; how polyester clothes decompose; and the way polyester clothes are
disposed of once they are discarded by consumers (CFDA, 2019).
Polyester is derived from petroleum and fossil fuel byproducts – non-renewable
resources which incur incredible negative environmental impacts. The petroleum industry
poses threats to air, water, and soil resources due to the methods which are used to extract and
refine crude oil. Petroleum refineries are major contributors of criteria air pollutants such as
carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), particulate matter (PM), sulfur dioxide (SO2)
and hydrogen sulfide (H2S). Multiple thousands of pounds of these pollutants are released into
the environment annually as a result of petroleum refining, making the production of
petroleum an extremely environmentally harmful practice. In addition, the volatile
hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides released from petroleum refineries contribute significantly
to the formation of the ozone layer, which significantly contributes to global warming. In
2015, polyester produced for clothing alone emitted 310 million tons of CO2, which was
almost three times more than the recorded CO2emissions of cotton. Thus, air pollution as a
result of petroleum and polyester production is a major environmental concern.
Furthermore, petroleum refineries also significantly contribute to both groundwater
and surface water pollution. Wastewater from petroleum refineries comes into contact with
various sources throughout the refining process, including equipment leaks and crude oil
desalting. As a result, the contaminated wastewater may contain any number of oil residues as
well as other hazardous wastes. Though water utilized during the refining process is treated at
a wastewater treatment plant before being discharged to surface waters and is regulated under
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the Clean Water Act (CWA), it is highly possible that considerable pollution from the
discharging of petroleum refinery wastewater remains in surface water.
Finally, the petroleum refining process also poses a threat to soil reserves. Though the
contamination of soil is comparably lower than that of air and water pollution caused as a
result of crude oil refinement, it is still a considerable effect. Due to the nature of petroleum
fracking and refining, accidents, spills and leaks can be quite common – and sometimes
highly disastrous. Residuals from these leaks may remain in the soil and affect soil quality.
Overall, the petroleum refining industry poses many significant threats to the environment and
significantly contributes to the decline of our natural resources in the modern era. (Hazardous
Substance Research Centers/South & Southwest Outreach Program, 2003).
Fabric Manufacturing
Fabric manufacturing encompasses three primary methods: nonwoven, weaving, and
knitting. Nonwoven fabric production refers to the use of fibers or filaments to produce
textiles that are felted or bound. Also within nonwovens, we find films and foams such as
alternative leathers in the form of laminates that require the use of petrochemicals for their
production. Weaving and knitting employs sequential phases of yarn manufacturing and fabric
production. Yarn manufacturing involves spinning and transforming fibers into yarns, which
are subsequently employed in fabric creation through methods like knitting and weaving.
Fiber spinning includes scouring as a sub-stage, eliminating impurities from fibers to enhance
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yarn processability and quality. In some instances, yarn dyeing precedes fabric production.
The ultimate stage in fabric manufacturing is wet processing, encompassing pretreatment,
dyeing (or printing), and fabric finishing. If yarn dyeing has occurred earlier in the process,
final fabric dyeing becomes unnecessary.
Spinning, knitting, and weaving operations demand significant energy and yield solid
waste, while the wet processing phase (involving yarn and fabric dyeing) consumes
substantial energy, water and chemicals. Notably, the scouring process, exclusively essential
for natural fibers, uses large volumes of water and harsh chemicals, generating wastewater,
the effluent restricted for direct drainage (Munasinghe et al. 2021).
Water Pollution
The environmental effects of the apparel industry can be further examined when
analyzing the excessive water usage incurred during the mass production of garments. The
fashion industry alone consumes ten percent of the total industrial water supply utilized to
operate factories and wash goods. The sheer amount of water necessary to produce the textiles
used in the garment production process is shocking: nearly three thousand gallons of water are
required to produce just over two pounds of cotton, translating to almost eight hundred gallons of
water needed to make a single cotton shirt (Le, 2020).
In addition, textile production contributes to excessive pollution of the world’s waterways
due to the harsh chemicals and dyes required to dye fabrics and products. Around twenty percent
of global wastewater is a result of the textile production process, accumulating over time and
damaging both aquatic and terrestrial biospheres. As illustrated in Figure 5, the massive
pollution which results from the textile dyeing process builds up over time and overflows
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waterways in the developing countries in which garment production factories are located. The
extensive use of chemicals and dyes and the lack of proper treatment via wastewater methods
harms waterways that individuals in the area rely on for drinking, bathing, and growing crops.
Polluting these waterways exposes these individuals to the potential of serious health risks and
poses a significant threat to the environment.
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Figure 5, The Cihaur River located in West Java, Indonesia, flooded with industrial wastewater
made up of hazardous chemicals and dyes.
Guangdong Province, located in southern China, is one of the country’s hubs for
textile production, making up around twenty-three percent of the total textile and apparel
exports from China. In addition, twelve percent of the total national GDP of China can be
attributed to the Guangdong Province, making it the highest contributing province in the
nation. Guangdong Province has experienced heightened amounts of water pollution in recent
years. Due to the toxic byproducts contained in wastewater from the clothing manufacturing
centers, residents of Guangdong Province experience increased rates of infectious disease
related to water pollution as well as pollution-related chronic health problems. Over two and a
half million individuals residing around Guangzhou – the capital of Guangdong Province –
have heightened health risks due to contaminated drinking water as a result of textile
pollution. Due to the quickly growing economy of China and continual urbanization in the
nation, already scarce water sources are being further depleted as a result of industrial and
domestic water use. China struggles to find a balance between the protection of the
environment and the promotion of economic development, meaning water quality has suffered
due to a lack of stricter regulations. According to recent studies, the level of pollution in water
sources in Guangdong Province has increased in recent years: twenty-eight percent of all
rivers in the region experience severe pollution, much of which can be attributed to the reality
that fewer than two percent of Guangdong’s urban centers practice the treatment of
wastewater (Business for Social Responsibility, 2008). Guangdong Province is just one
specific example of the vast water pollution issue that is caused by the clothing manufacturing
sector of a garment’s lifecycle.
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Clothing Manufacturing
This phase involves the production of clothing, including design, pattern making, fabric
selection and cutting, sewing and assembly, and finishing processes – such as embellishments,
pressing, ironing, and packaging (Munasinghe et al. 2021). Factories and manufacturing facilities
require substantial energy inputs in order to operate the heavy machinery involved in the
production of garments. Since major textile production countries such as China, India, and
Bangladesh still heavily rely on coal to generate power, this stage has extensive environmental
effects, leading to heightened carbon emissions from manufacturing processes (Filho, et al.
2022). Additionally, garments may undergo dying during this phase, which may implicate
substantial water and chemical usage and pollution of natural resources, such as rivers and
waterways.
Exploitation of Garment Workers
Clothing manufacturing involves a series of interconnected stages where human labor
plays a pivotal role throughout the supply chain. Initially, designers and product developers
conceptualize clothing designs and plan materials and construction techniques. Workers are
responsible for precisely cutting the fabric based on patterns to minimize waste. Assembly of
garment pieces, whether by sewing machines or hand-stitching, is carried out by skilled laborers,
involving intricate tasks such as attaching buttons, zippers, and labels. Post-assembly, garments
undergo finishing processes such as ironing, pressing, and quality control checks before being
packaged for shipping (Munasinghe et al. 2021). Despite the cruciality of human labor, the
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industry faces challenges such as labor rights concerns, including long hours, low wages, and
unsafe working conditions, especially in regions with less stringent labor laws.
Although the clothing industry is worldwide, the globalization of industries has
perpetuated the outsourcing of labor from developed nations to developing countries –
particularly in South and Southeast Asia – in an effort to lessen the cost of labor. Ready-made
garment workers in exporting countries of the world experience dangerous and unhealthy
working conditions, low wages, and excessive working hours (Kabir, et al., 2019). To attain the
most cost-effective production process, manufacturers frequently resort to employing child labor
due to its low expense and the proficiency of children in executing specific tasks vital to clothing
production. Child labor remains pervasive across all stages of fashion manufacturing, often
taking place in grueling and hazardous conditions that jeopardize the lives and welfare of these
young individuals. Although child labor is an issue prevalent in various global industries, it poses
an especially significant challenge within the fast fashion sector (James, 2022). The International
Labor Office (ILO) estimates that 170 million children worldwide are engaged in child labor,
many of which are involved in the garment industry. Overall, the clothing manufacturing stage of
the garment life cycle involves significant environmental and ethical implications.
Retailing
The fashion clothing retail sector operates through two primary channels: traditional
brick-and-mortar retail and online retailing (e-commerce). The primary environmental concern
associated with retailing is the energy consumption required by physical stores (Munasinghe et
al. 2021). The energy demands of a retail establishment encompass various facets, including
transportation used by customers for in-store visits; lighting, heating, and air conditioning
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 27
systems; electronic systems such as cash registers, printers, and computers; security systems; and
display fixtures. These contribute to retail stores requiring significant energy usage and
contributing to greenhouse gas emissions released when fossil fuels are burned for energy
production. Online retailing has a less significant environmental footprint than conventional
retailing, as it does not involve as extensive energy requirements as physical stores. However, e-
commerce necessitates unique energy requirements, such as: data centers and servers; internet
infrastructure; personal devices used by consumers to reach e-commerce sites, and packaging
and delivery. While the retailing phase of the garment life cycle is not as environmentally taxing
as prior stages, it remains a significant contributor to environmental impact due to the pollution
resulting from energy consumption.
Use
The utilization stage constitutes a pivotal phase within the clothing life cycle, involving
the consumption of energy and water for activities such as clothes washing, drying, ironing, and
dry cleaning. The selection and use of appliances can greatly affect the environmental impact of
this phase. How often washing cycles occur in this stage is crucial, as it affects how long clothes
last and increases energy consumption (Munasinghe et al. 2021).
Washing garments can also contribute to environmental pollution in the form of
microplastics. Polyester is often believed to be a more sustainable alternative to natural fibers
from a consumer standpoint due to polyester’s long-lasting qualities. Because polyester is so
durable and has increased longevity as opposed to other textiles, polyester garments require less
water, energy, and heat for washing. However, polyester poses a unique threat to the
environment in the manner in which it degrades. Studies have shown that polyester garments
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shed microplastics when washed in a standard washing machine. Microplastics aren’t able to be
filtered out via current wastewater methods, so they find their way into the world’s oceans,
drinking water sources, and even the air (CFDA, 2019). It has been estimated that around half a
million tons of plastic microfibers are shed into the oceans annually due to the washing of
plastic-based textiles such as polyester, nylon, or acrylic (Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2017).
Some studies have shown that these types of microplastics – those derived from the
petrochemicals derived from oil and gas products –can harbor carcinogenic and mutagenic
chemicals, which have the potential to cause cancer and damage DNA if ingested by humans
(Taylor et al. 2021). In reality, the full effects of microplastics on humans and the environment
are unknown, and studies are ongoing to determine how exactly the ingestion of microplastics
affects humans.
End of Life
This phase generates significant environmental impacts due to the adoption of
unsustainable disposal practices for post-consumer textiles and clothing. In the fashion industry,
prevalent waste management methods include reuse, recycling, and incineration. Reuse stands
out as the most environmentally preferable strategy because it avoids additional material
processing. Entities such as charity shops, commercial organizations, and government bodies
engage in the collection, sorting, cleaning, and resale of used textiles and clothing. Recycling
encompasses diverse techniques, including monomer, oligomer, and polymer recycling, fiber
recycling, and fabric recycling. In contrast, incineration and gasification serve as energy
recovery methods but are less favored in terms of resource recovery. Landfilling is generally
considered the least eco-friendly option, potentially resulting in greenhouse gas emissions from
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the decomposition of natural and bio-based fibers and the persistence of synthetics in the soil for
centuries without degradation.
Excessive Consumption and Textile Waste
In addition to the environmental impacts caused by the production of textiles and
garment products, the detrimental effects caused by the disposal of textile waste are extensive.
Around eighty-five percent of all textiles that are disposed of in the United States are either
discarded into landfills or are incinerated. This amounts to over 80 pounds of clothes being
thrown away each year by the average American. In 2018 alone, American landfills received
11.3 million tons of municipal solid waste (MSW) textiles. This account for 7.7 percent of all
municipal solid waste that was discarded in landfills that year. By the year 2030, it is expected
that over 147 million tons of clothing will be discarded globally every year. As illustrated by
Figure 6, the amount of textile MSW in landfills has steadily increased since 1960, reaching
truly shocking levels of waste. These numbers are disturbing testaments to the immense
danger overconsumption and the fast fashion industry poses to the environment.
Figure 6. 1960-2018 Data on Textiles in MSW by Weight (in thousands of U.S. tons)
(American Apparel and Footwear Association, International Trade Commission, the U.S.
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Department of Commerce’s Office of Textiles and Apparel, and the Council for Textile
Recycling)
The harsh reality of this issue is illustrated by the crisis currently plaguing the
Atacama Desert in Chile. Annually, around 59,000 tons of clothing arrive at the Iquique port
in the Alto Hospicio free zone located in northern Chile. These clothes are all brand new and
are discarded inventory from fast fashion brands unable to sell the products to consumers. The
clothes are shipped to Chile for the intention of resale in South America, but only around
20,000 tons are actually sent to various locations throughout the continent. The rest of the
clothing stays in the free zone, piling up into mountains of clothes covering the Atacama
Desert, as seen in Figure 7. The responsibility to clean up the waste does not fall on anyone
specifically, and no one will pay the needed tariffs to take the clothing to proper landfills.
Thus, every year around 39,000 tons of unsold and unworn clothes are abandoned in the
Atacama Desert, where they will take hundreds of years to biodegrade, releasing harmful
toxins and chemicals into the soil and air as they do so (Bartlett, 2023 and Papamichael et al,
2022).
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Figure 7. Aerial view of discarded clothes located in the Atacama desert in Chile. September
26, 2021 (Bernetti, 2021)
Polyester – one of the most popular textiles used in the garment industry – is
particularly difficult to dispose of due to its inability to biodegrade. According to Common
Objective, “As an oil-based plastic, polyester does not biodegrade like natural fibers. Rather it
stays in landfill for several decades at least – and potentially for hundreds of years” (Common
Objective, 2021). Even if polyester waste is disposed of via incineration methods, waste is not
converted into energy completely via this method. The burning of polyester releases toxic
gasses and hazardous particulate matter into the atmosphere. Due to the high oxygen content
in the polymer polyethylene terephthalate (PET), which is what polyester thread is made out
of, incinerated polyester textiles typically produce carbon monoxide (CO) and carbon dioxide
(CO2), as well as benzene, benzoic acid, acetaldehyde, and hydrocarbons among other
pollutants. All of these compounds pose hazards to both environmental and human health and
have been proven to contribute to climate change and rising global temperatures (Palacios-
Mateo, et al. 2021).
The environmental threat posed by solid textile waste is increasing in severity as more
and more clothing is produced by fast fashion companies and is not disposed of properly. Due
to the manner in which consumers buy and discard clothing at rapid speeds and the decreasing
lifespans of garments, the consumption of clothing that the fast fashion industry promotes and
supports is a topic of major concern.
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Chapter 2: What is Sustainable Fashion?
The concept of sustainable fashion differs from the popularized model of fast fashion,
typically referring to the practice of producing clothing in an ethical and environmentally-
conscious manner. The term “sustainability” refers to the ability to sustain, and typically incurs a
“future-conscious” mindset. In 1987, the UN World Commission on Development and
Environment released “Our Common Future” – more commonly known as the “Brundtland
Report” – and defined sustainable development as “development that meets the needs of the
present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (World
Commission on Environment and Development (WCED), 1987). Considering this definition, it is
possible to understand sustainable fashion as the development of practices related to the creation,
use, and disposal of fashion products that are mindful of the environment, protect the workers
that create the clothing, and are able to be sustained in the future.
The idea of sustainable fashion is somewhat of an oxymoron: “after all, sustainability is
about longevity, and fashion is about change” (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2008). Modern fashion is
ingrained with constant change, as trends and microtrends constantly define and redefine the
styles that are popular among consumers. Shein is an example of a fast fashion giant that
supports rapid change of fashion styles, adding up to 10,000 new items on its website daily
(Selyukh, 2023). Under their current operation style, Shein can turn a design into a garment in as
little as ten days, truly embodying the phrase “fast fashion.”
Adversely, sustainable fashion is considered to be a part of the slow fashion movement,
which emerged as a response to fast fashion cycles and unsustainable fashion production
practices. Rather than operating on fast fashion concepts of overconsumption and rapid clothing
overturn, slow fashion typically favors a more thoughtful approach to fashion consumption.
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While not intending to literally slow down the textile and apparel supply chain, slow fashion
ideals focus on a more holistic approach to fashion production and consumption, emphasizing
the advancement of a more sustainable process overall (Pookulangara & Shephard, 2013). The
ideology of slow fashion also encompasses all stages of the garment life cycle: “the slow
approach offers more sustainable and ethical ways of being fashionable that have implications
for design, production, consumption, and use” (Clark, 2008).
The concept of slow fashion involves a range of methods and practices aimed at
promoting sustainability and ethical production within the fashion industry. Key components of
slow fashion include:
1. Emphasis on sustainable material use
Sustainable materials, such as organic cotton, recycled fabrics, and
environmentally friendly dyes, are commonly utilized to reduce the
environmental impact of clothing production.
2. Transparent supply chains
Slow fashion advocates for transparent supply chains and fair labor
practices, ensuring that garment workers are treated ethically and paid
fairly. Slow fashion focuses on supporting ethical use of natural and
human resources, rather than exploiting resources to support expedited
manufacturing speeds.
3. Quality over quantity
Consumers are encouraged to buy fewer, high-quality items less often,
promoting the idea that fashion pieces should last and reducing the overall
waste associated with disposable fashion.
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4. Reducing waste
Repair, upcycling, and secondhand shopping are integral aspects of slow
fashion, encouraging the reuse and recycling of clothing to extend the
“use” stage of the garment life cycle by averting textile waste from
landfills (Jung & Jin, 2014).
Overall, slow fashion embodies a holistic approach to clothing production, emphasizing
sustainability, ethical considerations, and a shift away from the disposable nature of fast fashion.
Ethical and Secondhand Fashion
For the purpose of this paper, the rise of consumer engagement with secondhand and
preowned clothing will be analyzed as a primary means of encouraging sustainable (“slow”)
fashion consumption. While purchasing secondhand clothing is not the only means of engaging
in sustainable fashion consumption, it represents a preferred method among consumers as
opposed to alternative methods, such as investing in sustainable fashion brands, buying less
clothing overall, or opting for clothing made of sustainable fabrics rather than unsustainable
ones. This preference can be inferred from the comparison of market value of the secondhand
apparel market as opposed to the ethical apparel market.
The ethical fashion market can be categorized into three main sectors: materials, ethical
standards, and end-user. The material segment is defined by products made of organic, man-
made or regenerated, recycled, and natural textiles. Ethical standards include fair trade, animal
cruelty free, eco-friendly, and charitable brands. The end-user sector is defined by the end-user
of ethical fashion companies, including men, women, and kids. In 2022, the global ethical
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fashion market reached a value of nearly $7.6 billion. By 2027, the market is expected to grow at
a rate of 8.1%, eventually reaching a value of $11.1 billion (The Business Research Company,
2023).
The secondhand fashion market encompasses the buying and selling of pre owned
clothing and fashion items. This market involves the exchange of used garments, accessories,
and footwear, between individual sellers or through dedicated resale platforms and stores. In
2022, the global secondhand apparel industry reached a market value of $177 billion, and is
projected to reach a market value of $351 billion by the year 2027 (ThredUp, 2023).
Based on market value analysis and projection, the secondhand fashion market has
achieved greater consumer support in comparison to the ethical fashion market, making it an
ideal sector of the sustainable fashion industry to analyze consumer attitudes and behaviors
towards sustainable apparel consumption.
Chapter 3: Consumer Sentiment Toward Sustainability in
Fashion
In an era where global consciousness regarding environmental sustainability is at its
zenith, the fashion industry stands at the intersection of style and responsibility. Consumers have
become increasingly aware of the ecological and ethical implications of their purchasing choices,
sparking a profound transformation within the realm of fashion. Gone are the days when style
and sustainability were considered mutually exclusive; instead, today’s consumers strive towards
a wardrobe that not only reflects their individuality but also aligns with their values. However,
beneath the surface of this burgeoning movement lies a fascinating paradox – consumer
ideologies rarely seamlessly align with their buying habits in the realm of sustainable fashion.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 36
Consumer preferences can be viewed as an intricate web of motivations, challenges, and
evolving trends that shape the choice of the modern shopper. By analyzing the driving factors
behind consumer buying habits, it is possible to explore the diverse aspects of the industry that is
not just dressing the world, but reshaping it, and highlight the disconnect between consumer
ideals and actions. When discussing the dichotomy of consumer ideals and behaviors, Remi
Trudel notes,
Most people want to live and make decisions to satisfy their present needs without
compromising the environment. From this perspective, environmental or
sustainable behavior is best defined by its impact: the extent to which decisions are
driven with the intention to benefit or limit the impact on the environment (Stern,
2000). Yet most, if not all, people find themselves engaging in behaviors that have
negative environmental impacts (Trudel, 2018).
The objective of this chapter is to explore the psychological motivations of
modern consumers by analyzing their buying habits and surveyed attitudes towards
subjects like sustainability and ethical production practices. By identifying the different
types of modern consumers, it is possible to understand how their psychological
motivations vary and in turn influence their actions when making purchasing decisions.
Furthermore, the external motivators that contribute to consumers behaviors being
misaligned with their ideologies towards sustainability will be identified and explored.
Consumer Buying Habits in the Fashion Industry
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 37
Consumer buying habits in the fashion industry have been notably evolving over the
course of the last several decades. Beginning in the mid 1900s, fashion retailers began practicing
a faster production model based on trends motivated by ever changing consumer preferences. As
technological advances allowed for a globalization of the supply chain for fashion companies
and greater access for consumers to the latest fashion styles via online platforms, consumer
buying habits have been increasing, demanding faster production of new merchandise at
affordable price points. Due to these advancements within the fashion industry, clothing
consumption has grown explosively over the course of the past 20 years. As production practices
develop further and technology advances to allow for greater and faster production of fashion
products, fashion shoppers are consuming exponentially more than they used to. Consumers buy
over 80 billion new pieces of clothing every year, which is over 400% more than what
individuals consumed only two decades ago. Not only do we buy exponentially more than our
parents, but we also buy exponentially more than ourselves ten years ago; The number of
garments purchased per capita between 2000 and 2014 alone increased by around 60%. These
statistics communicate the sheer magnitude of clothing production as compared to prior decades,
illustrating a continuously expanding demand for more products; a demand that is continuously
met by modern fashion companies.
Not only are shoppers buying more, they are also often choosing the most convenient and
cheapest options available to them. One-day shipping and free returns have become key to
retailers attempting to increase consumer engagement, ultimately allowing consumers to
experience greater flexibility in their shopping experience. In 2021, the top-visited websites for
purchasing apparel online were reportedly Amazon and Shein, brands known for cheap prices
and incredibly fast shipping methods. Based on a 2022 Statista study, Shein had the most
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 38
affordable women's fashion prices among all fast-fashion retailers operating in the United States.
As of March 8, 2022, a dress on Shein was priced at an average of 15.74 US dollars, whereas
Zara's equivalent product carried an average selling cost of 48.19 U.S. dollars. Shein’s attractive,
shockingly low prices have made them a major name in the fashion apparel industry, enticing
consumers to purchase their trendy, cheap garments. Shein’s status as one of the most popular
global fashion brands reveals that consumers worldwide prioritize low prices when making
apparel purchasing decisions. Overall, consumer buying habits reveal that modern fashion
consumers value low prices, accessibility, and ease of purchase when making apparel purchases.
The Sustainable Consumer
Sustainable consumer behavior is “behavior that attempts to satisfy present needs while
simultaneously benefiting or limiting environmental impact” (Trudel, 2018). Initial
investigations (pre the year 2000) in the field of sustainable behavior primarily centered on the
identification and description of “green consumers” to assess whether they constituted a distinct
market segment. Consequently, early research was primarily concerned with assessing
significant socio-psychological and situational factors influencing environmental and sustainable
conduct. These factors included elements such as age, gender, economic and cultural
backgrounds, attitudes, and motivations, which were then analyzed in relation to indicators of
social awareness and environmental concern.
Consumer desire for sustainability in the fashion industry has been on the rise, as
evidenced by numerous data sources and survey reports. According to a report by McKinsey &
Company, 67% of surveyed customers consider the use of sustainable materials to be an
important purchasing factor, and 63% consider a brand’s promotion of sustainable initiatives in
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 39
the same way (Granskog et al. 2020). Furthermore, A survey conducted by Nielsen found that
66% of global consumers are willing to pay more for products that come from environmentally
friendly companies (Nielsen, 2015). These statistics underscore the growing demand for eco-
conscious fashion choices, highlighting a shift towards sustainability among modern fashion
consumers. While this trend is inspiring change among industry’s leaders promoting a shift
towards more ethical and sustainable production practices, it also has not yet been significant
enough to enact significant industry-wide change, often taking the backseat to other factors that
influence consumer behavior and purchasing habits.
The Millennial and Gen Z Consumer
Millennials, also known as Generation Y, refers to the demographic cohort born
approximately between the early 1980s and the mid-1990s. This generation came of age during a
period of rapid technological advancement and witnessed the transition from analog to digital
lifestyles. Millennials are often characterized by their familiarity with the internet, the rise of
social media, and the advent of mobile technology. They tend to value experiences over material
possessions, seek work-life balance, and prioritize social and environmental issues. Millennials
have been shaped by significant cultural and economic events, such as the Great Recession,
which has influenced their financial habits, career choices, and outlook on the world. Millennials
are sometimes called the “me generation,” referring to their focus on the self. Members of the
millennial generation are more idealistic, more confrontational, and less willing to accept diverse
points of view as opposed to their successors, the members of Generation Z.
Generation Z, often abbreviated as Gen Z, refers to the cohort of individuals born roughly
between the mid-1990s and the early 2010s, succeeding the Millennial generation. Gen Z is
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 40
characterized by its unique upbringing in a rapidly evolving digital world, having grown up with
easy access to the internet, smartphones, and social media from a young age. This generation is
known for its digital nativism, displaying a strong aptitude for technology and a preference for
online communication and information consumption. Gen Z is also recognized for its diverse and
inclusive worldview, with a heightened awareness of social justice issues and a desire to make a
positive impact on the world. As they come of age, Gen Z’s values, preferences, and attitudes are
reshaping various aspects of society, including culture, business, and politics, making them a
subject of considerable interest and study.
As digital natives, Gen Z tends to shop online and feels comfortable using mobile
commerce sites, with 95% of respondents of an ICSC survey indicating that they shop online.
The top reason for shopping online among the Gen Zs is convenience, with 30% of respondents
saying the ability to compare prices and shop from anywhere at any time as the leading factors
for utilizing online shopping sources. A significant percentage of respondents also indicated that
price was a leading motivation to shopping online, with 20% of respondents claiming that better
prices and promotions influenced them to conduct their shopping online (International Council of
Shopping Centers (ICSC), 2023).
As a generation, members of Gen Z have come of age in an uncertain economy,
experiencing the Recession of 2008 – the biggest financial crisis since the Great Depression – as
well as the major global financial shock caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, occurring when
most of the generation had reached adolescence or adulthood. While the U.S. economy has
normalized and returned to its pre-pandemic trajectory, high inflation and inflammation rates, as
well as the prospect of a future recession, heavily affect the outlook of a large share of Gen Z
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 41
consumers. An ICSC survey conducted in 2023 illustrated that Gen Z is significantly concerned
about the possibility of economic insecurity. Four in five members stated they were worried
about the health of the US economy, with older members of Gen Z expressing greater concern
than their younger counterparts: 84% of 23- to 26-year-olds are worried about the U.S. economy,
compared to 71% for 16-to 17-year-olds (International Council of Shopping Centers (ICSC),
2023).
Gen Z and Millennial consumers exhibit a distinct and pronounced preference for
sustainability compared to other age groups. This generational shift is driven by a deep-seated
awareness of environmental issues, a strong desire to combat climate change, and a sense of
responsibility for the planet’s future. These cohorts are more likely to make eco-conscious
choices when it comes to their purchasing habits, seeking out sustainable products, eco-friendly
brands, and ethical business practices. Moreover, they use their social media platforms to
advocate for sustainability and hold companies accountable for their environmental impact.
According to a 2021 study conducted by the Pew Research Center, Gen Z and Millenials are
more active than older generations addressing climate change on- and offline. As per the study,
Gen Z individuals and Millennials constitute 32% and 28%, respectively, of US adults who have
personally taken steps to address climate change in the past year, while this percentage is lower
at 23% for Gen X adults and 21% for those belonging to the Boomer and older generations. The
same study showed that 45% of Gen Z and 40% of Millennials have engaged on social media
with content on the need for climate action, as opposed to 27% of (Tyson, et al., 2023).
Another study conducted by Statista found that Gen Z and Millennials are the most
willing consumers to buy secondhand apparel as of 2021, with both Gen Z and Millennials
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 42
representing 42% of consumers who are open to shopping preowned. Gen X and the Boomer
generation display a decreased willingness to buy secondhand, representing 32% and 16% of
consumers willing to buy preowned clothing items, respectively.
(Statista, 2021)
The Interplay of Consumer Behavior and Purchasing Habits
The act of purchasing clothing is an intricate mental endeavor, marked by a delicate
interplay of various factors and motivators. In today’s consumer landscape, individuals
frequently grapple with a significant inner conflict, torn between the desire to make a
conscientious choice and the allure of a choice that resonates with societal preferences. This
internal tug-of-war unfolds as consumers strive to balance ethical aspirations with prevailing
social ideals. While the majority of consumers harbor the intention to make ethically and
sustainably sound apparel choices, they often succumb to the pervasive pressures of adhering to
societal standards that prioritize elements like style, brand recognition, and the latest trends.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 43
Today, this often means that consumers battle between making a sustainable choice and an
unsustainable one when purchasing clothing. The literature finds that consumers’ attitudes are
rarely in alignment with their actual purchasing decisions. Butler and Francis (1997) observed
that though consumers may hold attitudes which can be considered to be pro environmental,
attitudes about clothing and the environment aren’t as strong in influencing clothing purchasing
behavior. Ultimately, they expressed that the discrepancy between the attitudes and actual
behaviors of consumers may be explained by the presence of other influencing factors, such as
price, style, or fit, which may take precedence when making a purchasing choice. A more recent
study conducted in 2020 supported similar conclusions, discovering that though consumers
expressed concerns about the environmental and social consequences of their non-fashion
purchases, these principles didn’t carry over to their fashion-related consumption. Of the
observed consumers, those that were sustainably minded often changed their minds at the time of
actual purchase, exhibiting a gap between what consumers may believe and what they actually
do (Jung et al., 2020). Survey data supports these conclusions, showing that roughly 65% of
consumers indicated interest in buying from brands that prioritize sustainability, yet only about
26% act on their interest by buying from such brands (White et al., 2019). The frequency of
consumers deviating from their indicated ethical values can be explained through the concept of
the attitude-behavior gap, which can be further analyzed to discuss influencing factors on apparel
consumer decisions.
The Attitude-behavior Gap
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Identified by researchers as the attitude-behavior, intention-behavior, or words-deed gap,
the misalignment between ethical aspirations and tangible actions reflects a failure of consumers
to “put their money where their mouth is,” or, where their mind is (Carrington et al., 2014).
Used to better understand the influence of varying factors on consumer purchase decisions, the
attitude-behavior gap provides researchers a framework of discussing and explaining the
inconsistencies between what consumers intend to purchase and what they actually buy.
Extensive literature delves into the conspicuous disconnect between consumer attitudes and their
actions when it comes to sustainable products (Carrington, 2014; Butler, 1997; and Jung, et al.
2020) . While it's evident that attitudes and perceptions exert a significant influence on
purchasing decisions, relying solely on these attitudes often proves insufficient in accurately
predicting actual buying behavior. While consumer enthusiasm for sustainable fashion
experiences ongoing growth, a noticeable disparity persists between their aspiration for
sustainable products and the real market demand for such items. As sustainable fashion gains
increasing prominence, it has become essential for businesses to acquire a profound
comprehension of the factors motivating consumer behavior, particularly by examining their
intentions during the purchase decision and their subsequent follow-through.
The Attitude-behavior Gap and Eco-friendly Products
Past studies on consumer purchasing behavior have revealed that a multitude of different
factors are capable of influencing buyers’ purchasing decisions. When discussing the attitude-
behavior gap that exists among consumers purchasing eco-friendly goods, the literature defines
multiple factors that influence buyers’ purchasing decisions. (Carrington, 2014 and Gleim et al.
2013). Across the studies, four main factors can be identified which influence consumers’
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 45
attitude-behavior gap when purchasing environmentally friendly products: price, shopping
behavior and situational factors, ease of purchase, and perception of product. Drawing on the
conclusions of these studies and existing data regarding apparel consumption, three factors can
be identified as the main motivators behind why apparel consumers chose to purchase non-
sustainable options as opposed to sustainable ones when making fashion consumption decisions:
affordability and price; ease of purchase and convenience; and social pressures.
Factors that Influence Purchasing Habits
Affordability & Price
For many fashion shoppers, price is a main driver influencing their purchasing decisions.
In general, brands selling new merchandise marketed as sustainable tend to cost significantly
more than fast fashion alternatives, as exhibited by a comparison of average product prices
among popular sustainable and conventional fashion brands, as well as the average market price
of women’s eco clothing as compared to the average market price of apparel
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Data based on the average advertised price point of products stocked at mass market retailers on
September 16, 2021 (Edited, 2021).
In 2021, eco clothing for women at mass retailers in the United States tended to be sold at
a slightly higher price point than the average market price for similar items of clothing. The only
category of clothing that was actually cheaper as an eco product was outerwear. The category
with the biggest price gap was footwear, as eco shoes were on average 18 U.S. dollars more
expensive.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 47
Data based on the average advertised price point of products stocked at mass market retailers on
April 24, 2022 (Edited, 2022).
In April 2022, eco clothing for men at mass retailers in the United States tended to be
sold at a slightly higher price point than the average market price. Jeans and outerwear, however,
were actually cheaper as an eco product. The category with the biggest price gap was sneakers,
which were 40 percent more expensive as eco products compared to the average market price.
Current fashion consumers face particular pressure in terms of financial capability, as
economic markets have suffered due to the global COVID-19 pandemic. As fast fashion
companies have taken over and often defined the modern market, expectations for lower price
points for apparel products have heightened, conditioning consumers to expect low prices for
clothing. According to a 2022 survey conducted by Statista, the majority of consumers across all
age groups indicated that they value the affordability of a product over whether or not the
product is sustainable. Millennials and Gen Z lead the age-based consumer groups who indicated
they value price over sustainability when purchasing a product, representing 57% and 55% of
their generations, respectively (Capgemini, 2023). The increasing cost of living and a rise in
global inflation in recent years likely contributes to consumers being generally unwilling to pay
more for sustainable goods. In 2022 and 2023, with 64% of global consumers saying they feel
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 48
that inflation is preventing them from being more sustainable (Kantar, 2022). Furthermore,
consumers may not view sustainability as a pressing issue compared to economic realities. In a
2023 global survey, the number one worry among consumers was overwhelmingly the issue of
inflation (Ipsos, 2023). Notably fewer survey respondents indicated that “climate change” was an
important issue facing the world. When consumers are concerned with their immediate ability to
afford the things they need, they are less likely to opt for more expensive, albeit more sustainable
options. And when cheap, easily accessible clothing is abundant, many consumers consider the
affordability of clothing products the number one factor driving their purchasing choices.
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Data representing the most important concerns of global citizens (Ipsos, 2023).
Ease of Purchase and Convenience
Ease of purchase and convenience play a pivotal role in shaping fashion consumers’
purchasing habits in today’s market. Simplified and convenient purchasing processes
significantly impact consumer decisions. By analyzing the rise of the e-commerce industry in
recent years, it is possible to analyze how ease of purchase and convenience have a substantial
effect on consumer behavior and buying habits within the fashion industry. E-commerce (or
electronic commerce) refers to the exchange of goods or services that occurs solely via electronic
platforms (Jain et al. 2020). E-commerce has been consistently evolving in recent years and has
steadily risen in its share of total retail sales worldwide. In 2015, e-commerce represented 7.4%
of the total retail sales worldwide. In 2027, it is projected to represent 23% of total global sales
(eMarketer, 2023). As e-commerce usage has increased, consumers in the United States have
grown to favor e-commerce, with 43% percent of consumers saying they would prefer to shop
mostly online as compared to 27% of consumers who would prefer to shop mostly in-store
(Klarna, 2023). In 2021, the leading reason why consumers in the United States chose to shop
online was because it’s more convenient than travelling to shop in-store. Other driving factors
were that online shopping is available at any time of the day, and that consumers are able to find
things online rather than in store (Snap Inc., 2021). When consumers encounter easy and hassle-
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 50
free buying experiences, such as streamlined online transactions, user-friendly interfaces, and
swift checkouts, they tend to feel more satisfied and inclined to make purchases. Moreover, the
accessibility and simplicity of the purchasing process often contribute to increased trust and
loyalty towards a brand or product. In contrast, complex or time-consuming buying procedures
can deter potential customers, leading to abandoned shopping carts or hesitation in making repeat
purchases (Li et al. 2023). Therefore, businesses that prioritize and optimize the ease of purchase
tend to attract and retain customers more effectively, influencing their buying intent and
behaviors positively (Isa et al. 2020).
The prioritization of ease of purchase and convenience for consumers often presents a
challenging hurdle when encouraging the purchase of sustainable products. In today's fast-paced
consumer landscape, where convenience often reigns supreme, the focus on streamlined and
effortless buying experiences tends to overshadow considerations for sustainability. Consumers,
driven by convenience, might opt for readily available products that might not align with
sustainable practices or have eco-friendly attributes. The emphasis on quick, hassle-free
purchases might deter consumers from taking the extra steps or spending more time seeking out
sustainable alternatives, even if they desire to make environmentally conscious choices.
Consequently, this preference for convenience could negatively impact the inclination of
consumers to prioritize and purchase sustainable products, despite their intentions to do so. Data
shows that consumers think purchasing sustainable products is difficult, with 45% of consumers
claiming that it is difficult to maintain environmentally friendly buying habits. Furthermore,
despite wanting to buy sustainably, 78% of Americans say they don’t know how to identify
environmentally friendly companies (GreenPrint, 2022). In a day and age where convenience
takes precedence, the accessibility of unsustainable fashion products compared to sustainable
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 51
alternatives often results in consumers opting for the former. This preference stems from the ease
with which unsustainable garments are available, overshadowing the availability or accessibility
of sustainable options. Difficulty in identifying sustainable products creates a mental barrier for
consumers when making purchasing decisions, often making shopping feel like a research
project or an assignment rather than something fun and carefree. Thus, many consumers opt for
unsustainable products over sustainable ones due to ease of purchase and convenience.
Social Pressures
Social pressures have also been shown to contribute to consumer’s rapid buying habits. In
a 2017 poll, 41% of women between the ages of 18 and 25 felt pressured to not wear the same
outfit twice when going out (Monroe, 2021). Fear of repeating an outfit compels consumers to
buy more clothing and wear less of what they already own, leaving at least 50% of their
wardrobes unused (van Elven, 2018). The consumption of fashion products is also highly
influenced by cultural social factors. Factors such as culture, opinion leadership, social class,
family, and ethnicity have significant influence on fashion consumption among participants
(Anyanwu and Chiana, 2022). While the significance of the influence of these factors on
consumer practices may differ across different cultures, it is reasonable to conclude that socio-
cultural factors such as these influence the consumption practices of consumers across societies
and cultures.
The importance of social media platforms (SMPs) in influencing consumer purchasing
decisions must also be addressed. As information is more easily disseminated due to the
expansion of social media sites and the increase of modern social media users, there are new
ways to exchange brand-related information and influence the decision-making of customers
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 52
when making fashion purchases. Of US online fashion shoppers, 47.5% said their most recent
online fashion purchase was inspired by social media (Naeem and Ozuem, 2021). Additionally,
71% of social media users stated they had accepted peer recommendations for fashion brands
(Arnold, 2017). SMPs such as Instagram, TikTok, Snapchat, and Facebook have become
imbedded into the day to day lives of individuals worldwide. As social media “influencers" gain
prominence, SMPs are expanding as spaces where individuals share information, offer guidance,
and endeavor to convince others to purchase specific products or participate in particular
experiences. As brands become aware of the ways in which they can effectively harness
consumer engagement with SMPs, they have turned to influencer marketing to appeal to
consumers and influence purchasing decisions. Brands often collaborate with influencers to
sponsor posts or stories featuring their products, even partnering with influencers to offer special
discount codes to their followers, encouraging their audience to make purchases while also
providing a sense of exclusivity and urgency (Vrontis et al. 2021). In 2022, the influencer
industry reached a market value of $16.4 billion, showing that brands are betting on the power of
the influencer. In a Harvard Business Review study, researchers found that, on average, a 1%
increase in influencer marketing spending resulted in an engagement increase of .46% return on
investment (Leung et al. 2022). Due to brands consistently investing in influencer marketing and
the increasing value of the influencer industry, it's evident that social media platforms (SMPs)
and influencers play a crucial role for brands seeking consumer engagement and the ability to
sway their purchasing choices. The rise of SMPs and influencer marketing highlights the
significant impact social pressures and engagement have on consumer buying decisions.
However, the inherent goal of influencer culture is to encourage consumption among
followers, which could be seen as problematic from a sustainability standpoint. Influencers may
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 53
prompt their followers to engage in habits of overconsumption by creating excessive “haul”
videos or promoting limited-time sales. Regarding sustainability, the excessive buying of fashion
items can worsen the environmental consequences associated with the entire life cycle of
garments, resulting in the depletion of natural resources and a rise in textile waste. As consumers
become attuned to everchanging fashion trends via the internet and social media influencers,
desire for social belonging and trend-awareness are prioritized by consumers over sustainability
in regards to fashion consumption (McNeill and Moore, 2015). Hence, social pressures instigated
by social media platforms and influencers might deter consumers from embracing sustainable
fashion consumption methods, such as the ethos of "quality over quantity" within the slow
fashion movement.
Chapter 4: Reshaping Consumer Behavior: The Role of Online
Resale Platforms in the Rise of Sustainable Fashion
Online Resale Platforms
In the ever-evolving landscape of sustainable fashion, online resale platforms have
emerged as transformative forces that bridge the gap between conscious consumerism and
affordability. Depop, thredUp, and the RealReal stand as prominent figures in the movement,
each representing distinct sectors within the sustainable fashion market. These platforms redefine
the traditional concept of fashion consumption by offering pre-owned, second-hand, and vintage
clothing, accessories, and luxury items to a growing global audience. While their primary
mission is to extend the lifecycle of fashion items, they bring unique approaches, business
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 54
models, and audiences to the table. This chapter explores the intricacies of these online resale
platforms, exploring their individual characteristics, target demographics, and how they
contribute to the broader shift towards more sustainable shopping habits.
In recent years, the adoption of circular shopping within the fashion sector has
experienced a positive increase, particularly driven by the rise of the secondhand market.
“Circular shopping differs from traditional, linear models of retail and refers to an alternative
method of acquiring goods, intended to extend the life cycle of products by encouraging more
use per owner or more owners per item.” Circular shopping includes alternative shopping
methods such as using rental services, shopping second hand, or reselling items within a
marketplace.
Secondhand fashion refers to clothes or accessories that have been previously owned and
used by someone else. Examples of secondhand fashion includes the practice of thrift shopping,
utilizing online platforms such as ThredUp, Vestaire, the RealReal, or eBay,
The key factors driving the growth of this market are: “shifting perceptions about ownership,
financial and environmental benefits and consumers’ desire for unique items.”
The preowned (secondhand) clothing market has seen significant growth in recent years
and is expected to see a boost in popularity in the current market. In a 2022 study conducted by
Mintel on consumers’ propensity to buy preowned clothing, 27% of men and 25% of women
stated they are buying more preowned clothing than they have in the past (Mintel, 2022). Growth
in the sector has been driven mainly by more retailers offering preowned items and more
consumers participating in the second hand fashion market as current economic realities have
customers looking for more ways to stretch their purchasing power.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 55
Depop: The People’s Platform
Founded in 2011, Depop developed as a peer-to-peer fashion resale marketplace that
allows users to buy and sell a wide range of secondhand and vintage items, including clothing,
accessories, and collectibles. Depop draws on familiar concepts of social media presence,
allowing users to accumulate a following and cultivate distinctive retail personas. Depop
describes its philosophy and style as “a global conduit of connection, not only in m-commerce,
but culture, design, and creative communities around the world” (Beney, 2019). Depop is
primarily used by younger generations, with 90% of their active user base being under the age of
26. Depop enables access to secondhand clothing items via a simple and engaging platform
where the user experience resembles a social media app such as Instagram. Thus, Depop fosters
a supportive, online community atmosphere, that enables users to monetize their clothing and
create small businesses within the platform. Depop’s success has signaled a shift towards
secondhand fashion driven by the app’s social emphasis on preowned fashion as a desirable
choice for fashion consumption. By targeting Gen Z, who is proficient in content creation and
establishing online communities, Depop has been a major contributor in broader societal
movements towards purchasing secondhand and upcycled clothing.
By engaging in practices that have found success on other social media platforms
(SMPs), Depop has found a way to appeal to consumers in a familiar way. Similar to how
influencers gain followers on Instagram or TikTok, Depop’s user interface allows sellers to gain
hundreds of thousands of followers, building recognizable brand identities and promoting
sustainable fashion consumption by reselling secondhand or upcycled fashion items. Depop
claims that they are disrupting traditional fashion via a “Gen Z ‘peer to peer’ sharing economy,”
creating a closed-loop model of fashion consumption that combats the traditional linear model.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 56
Steel Dool, Head of Community Partnerships at Depop, discusses how Depop has had a notable
impact on the way users and sellers are taking advantage of Depop as a driver for social change
within the fashion industry:
The Depop Economy highlights the very real ways that Gen Z entrepreneurs are
challenging the status quo, making use of Depop as a platform and community to
support a new consumer movement that is inclusive, lucrative, and built upon their
own preferences and interests (Depop, 2020).
Depop’s success in making secondhand fashion desirable and social has significantly
contributed to the rising success of the preowned fashion market in recent years. Depop's
approach in creating a socially driven, community-based interface serves as a valuable
model for other brands aiming to elevate consumer awareness and engagement.
The RealReal: The Luxury Player
The RealReal, founded in 2011 by Julie Wainwright, is a prominent online luxury
consignment marketplace that has played a significant role in reshaping the way people buy and
sell high-end fashion and luxury goods. With the mission statement, “Extend the Life Cycle of
Luxury,” the RealReal aims to provide quality, authenticated luxury goods to customers in order
to “enable more people to own and appreciate luxury while maximizing the value of their
investments.” Wainwright's vision was to create a platform that not only allowed consumers to
buy and sell authenticated, high-quality luxury items but also promoted sustainability by
extending the lifecycle of these goods. According to the site’s “About Us” page, “Wainwright
saw how disposable consumers thought fashion was – and saw a future where that could
change.” The RealReal prioritizes consumer trust and has established itself as a reliable
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 57
marketplace by employing a team of hundreds of experts to authenticate products and ensure
their quality (The RealReal). Over the years, it has garnered a substantial following, addressing
the desire for both luxury and environmentally conscious shopping, while also contributing to the
growth of the circular economy in the fashion industry (The RealReal, 2023).
As one of the first ecommerce platforms to operate with the mission of reselling luxury
items, the RealReal has been a main player in the growing second hand luxury goods market.
Since 2017, the market has been steadily growing, and experienced a huge growth in the year
2020, despite obstacles presented by the worldwide Covid-19 pandemic. The market is projected
to experience continued growth through the year 2027, and the projected overall revenue of the
second-hand luxury market is expected to increase steadily over the next four years, reaching an
estimated revenue of over 14.6 billion dollars in the year 2027 (Statista, 2022).
(Statista, 2022).
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 58
By analyzing the luxury pre-owned market, it is possible to identify dissonance in
consumer attitudes towards luxury secondhand goods as opposed to other secondhand items
(thus termed “regular secondhand”). Consumers exhibit varying attitudes when it comes to
luxury secondhand items in contrast to other regular secondhand goods. Luxury items,
particularly in the fashion and accessories sector, tend to be perceived as rare and exclusive when
bought secondhand (Berg et al.). This perception is rooted in the prestige associated with luxury
brands, where owning a pre-owned designer piece can convey a sense of affluence and
uniqueness. In contrast, when considering every day or non-luxury secondhand items, consumers
may view them as “used” or “worn,” often associated with thriftiness or budget-conscious
shopping. This differentiation in attitude reflects the intricate interplay between consumer
perceptions, brand value, and the desire for exclusivity in the realm of secondhand goods
(Charnley et al. 2022).
The ability of the RealReal to capitalize on positive consumer sentiment towards
secondhand luxury goods serves as an example of how to promote sustainable consumer
purchasing habits via the preowned market. The Real Real has formulated shopping secondhand
as a luxury experience, allocating significant resources to the employment of multiple experts
and authenticators to establish consumer trust and build an interface that feels like scrolling on a
high-end designer website. Overall, the RealReal has contributed to growing consumer sentiment
that secondhand fashion can be something to be desired, rather than the idea that someone else’s
preowned goods are old and worn.
thredUP: The Resale Synthesis
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 59
thredUP is an online fashion resale marketplace that specializes in buying and selling
various types of secondhand clothing and accessories, including luxury items. Anyone can sell
their items on thredUP by opting for a Clean Out Kit, which includes a prepaid shipping bag to
send their items to thredUP for evaluation. Upon assessment, the company pays the seller for
accepted items, offering the choice of cash or store credit. Then, thredUP cleans, photographs,
and lists accepted items on their marketplace, which allows users to shop listed items via several
different search filters, such as brand name, size, color, or item type. Their inventory spans a
diverse range of secondhand items, encompassing women's and children's clothing, shoes,
handbags, and more. thredUP showcases items from various brands and designers, from fast
fashion to high-end labels.
Customers have expressed their favor for thredUP in online forums such as social media
platform, X, with most contributors discussing positive sentiment towards thredUp’s user
interface and the selection of available products. Consumers enjoy filtering products by brand in
order to find products from their favorite brands for an (often) heavily discounted secondhand
price. Other users value the uniqueness of some of thredUP’s offerings, or how multiple items
can be shipped together rather than having to pay for individual shipping on platforms like eBay
or Poshmark (Carolan, 2023; [@spintheiryarns], 2023; and Vermeer, 2023). Overall, consumers
discussing thredUP on the social platform, X favor the site and feel that thredUp has made
secondhand shopping more accessible and enjoyable. As consumers increasingly seek more
sustainable and cost-effective shopping options, thredUP's innovative approach exemplifies how
technology and e-commerce can make secondhand fashion more appealing and accessible across
diverse consumer demographics.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 60
In addition to making secondhand fashion more accessible to consumers, thredUP
focuses on encouraging brands to engage with the secondhand market. One way in which they do
so is by forming partnerships with brands to promote resale programs. The branded resale
strategy provides fashion companies with the chance to maintain control over the marketing and
management of their preowned products while allowing the brand to retain all revenue generated
through resale. Brands may see value in creating resale programs as an extension of their brand,
as it may increase brand loyalty among consumers as well as attract new consumers to their
brand who are interested in participating in the secondhand clothing economy. For brands
looking to assess the feasibility of introducing preowned products without committing to the
extensive infrastructure required for a full-fledged program, collaborating with a third-party
retailer like thredUP represents a practical choice (Mintel, 2022). In 2020, fashion rental brand
Rent the Runway partnered with thredUp to introduce its Revive collaboration, where previously
rented designer clothing is available for purchase via thredUP. According to the September 30,
2022 announcement of the collaboration, the two brands teamed up “to fight fashion waste and
quadruple the lifespan of dresses. thredUP founder and CEO James Reinhart said, “Resale and
rental are powering a rising wave of conscious consumption. Extending the life of clothing
through reuse reduces fashion’s impact on the planet and delivers incredible value to consumers.
At thredUP, We’re thrilled to partner with another circular fashion powerhouse to start a
conversation about how brands can unite to create change” (thredUP, 2020). Three years later,
Rent the Runway is still partnering with thredUp to resell clothing that is no longer available for
rent on their website. The ongoing partnership serves as a tangible example of how brands can
collaborate to prolong a garment's lifecycle and promote resale alliances within the preowned
fashion industry.
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 61
Data sourced from thredUP’s 2023 Resale Report
thredUP’s methods of operation, accessible interface, and partnerships with established
brands contribute to its accessibility. By making secondhand fashion more convenient for
customers, thredUP contributes to the perpetuation of a circular fashion economy and the
growing popularity of the secondhand market among fashion consumers.
Conclusion
Since the development of ready-to-wear clothing, the fashion industry has undergone
massive change and continual advancement, ultimately resulting in the modern practice of “fast
fashion” manufacturing. The operations of the modern fashion industry incur detrimental
environmental and human consequences. By understanding the consecutive stages of the garment
life cycle and the environmental implications of each phase, the methods by which garment
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 62
production, use, and disposal affect the environment clarify why sustainability is an important
topic in the modern fashion industry.
Though the majority of consumers value sustainability and wish to buy sustainable
products, an attitude-behavior gap exists that prevents consumers from making sustainable
choices at point of purchase. Fashion consumers prioritize affordability, convenience, and social
influences when making clothing purchase decisions, placing greater emphasis on these factors
over sustainability values. The purchasing patterns of consumers in the fashion industry
underscore the significance of price, convenience, and social pressures compared to
considerations related to sustainability.
Despite the majority of fashion consumers valuing affordability, convenience, and social
influences over sustainability when making fashion-related purchases, consumer attitudes toward
circular shopping habits have experienced significant growth in popularity in recent years.
Secondhand shopping represents a larger share of the global fashion market than ethical fashion,
revealing that consumers engage with secondhand shopping as a primary means of sustainable
consumption. Analyzing the advancements and accomplishments of preowned fashion apps such
as Depop, the RealReal, and thredUP can offer valuable insights for other brands seeking to
venture into the secondhand market. To encapsulate the key findings for brands derived from this
research, consider the following phrase: make it social, make it desirable, make it accessible.
Depop illustrates the power of cultivating an online community to encourage mindful
consumption habits and establish an appealing alternative to the standard practices of the linear
clothing economy. The RealReal’s success demonstrates consumers’ willingness to engage with
secondhand fashion consumption when it is perceived as luxurious or desirable. By establishing
preowned shopping experiences that promote an opulent user experience, brands may find
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR AND FAST FASHION 63
success in attracting consumers to engage with secondhand shopping practices. Positive
consumer sentiment towards thredUP reveals that making secondhand shopping more accessible
through easy-to-use online interfaces and branded partnerships is a feasible method for
increasing consumer interaction. The evolving landscape of consumer preferences underscores
the potential for a transformative shift towards sustainable fashion in future years, driven by
cultivating desirability, accessibility, and social engagement in secondhand shopping
experiences.
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