7
so they can sell more clothes – or planned obsolescence. The old clothes might be passed on to
other people, but their low durability means they must be thrown away eventually. Making more
durable clothes not only reduces municipal waste, but also production waste. Even if ZAMX’s
plant-dyeing process uses three times as much water as synthetic dyes – as mentioned by the
owner – if their clothes last three times as long then that makes the overall water footprint equal.
That is, the synthetically dyed garment consumer must replace the piece two times before
ZAMX’s clothing succumbs to wear resulting in using the same amount of water to keep their
customers clothed. However, it is not clear that this water usage occurs throughout the supply
chain until use, and this needs to be carefully evaluated.
Along with the waste produced once the clothes reach their end-of-life, the current
clothing market creates a huge amount of toxic waste during the production process. The fashion
industry accounts for approximately 20% of industrial wastewater (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Many
tons of effluent are released into the environment during the dyeing process, much of which
includes toxic carcinogens and mutagens which are difficult and costly to treat (Ratna, 2013;
Umbuzeiro et al., 2005). This can have devastating environmental effects causing increased rates
of cancer and mutation in the surrounding environment. One study found that the bacteria on
human skin could break down azo dyes, the most common type of synthetic dye, into aromatic
amines which are carcinogenic to humans (Platzek et al., 1999). Dyes can also be harmful to
those who work with them causing “eczema, contact dermatitis, asthma, chronic bronchitis,
tuberculosis, hematoma, bladder cancer, and irritation to eyes” (Chung, 2016).
There are many methods aimed at treating the waste from dye plants, but most methods
are costly, ineffective, or not fully developed. Physical treatment methods consist of adding a
compound to the water such as activated charcoal, peat, silica gel, and fly ash. These methods are
restricted because they produce substantial amounts of sludge, and methods which do not
produce sludge, such as ultrafiltration or reverse osmosis, are expensive and have other
drawbacks. Chemical treatments and biological methods use various chemicals or organisms
respectively to break down the dyes, but, while these treatments break down the colors within the
dyes, they can produce carcinogenic aromatic amines and other harmful byproducts (Chung,
2016; Mehta et al., 2021).