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FOOTWEARNEWS.COM / FEBRUARY 5, 2024 / @FOOTWEARNEWS
THE SUCCESS ISSUE
ATLANTA
SPOTLIGHT
TIMES X THREE
In their first-ever joint interview,
ED ROSENFELD, STEVE MADDEN and
AMELIA NEWTON VARELA get candid
about blockbuster shoes, category
expansion and winning over today’s
fickle teens, including their own.
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CONTENTS
5
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
INSIDER
9 UA 3.0
Under Armour is going
all-in on a product
strategy with more style.
14 Tech Beat
GenAI is reshaping retail,
as consumers expect
tailored journeys.
16 Notable
Mentions
Post Milan and Paris,
here’s what top men’s
buyers are bullish about.
SHOW PREVIEW
18 National
Assemby
What to expect at the
next edition of The
Atlanta Shoe Market.
20 Atlanta’s
Space Race
It’s getting harder to
nab space in the booming
Atlanta retail market.
22 Game Plans
Retail executives sound
o the economy,
trends and hot brands.
26 Snap ’Em Up
A preview of trends to
watch for fall ’24.
COVER STORIES
28 e A Team
Steve Madden and his
leadership team give their
first joint interview.
STEVE
MADDEN TEAM
Here and on the cover:
Photographed by
AXEL DUPEUX
D’WAYNE
EDWARDS &
JANICE TENNANT
On the cover:
Photographed by
MATTHEW LAVERE
36 Follow the
Leaders
Pensole’s Dr. D’Wayne
Edwards and Merrell’s
Janice Tennant on
the vital need for DEI.
FEATURE
43 Future Proof
The 10 issues that
could make or break
business in 2024.
FN PICK
50 My Way
What’s your bet
for Usher’s Super
Bowl footwear?
EDITORIAL
Michael Atmore Editorial Director
Katie Abel Executive Editor
Charlie Carballo Executive Digital Director
Peter Verry Senior News & Features Editor, Athletic & Outdoor
Nikara Johns Senior Editor
Renan Botelho Senior Digital Editor
Ian Servantes Senior Trending News Editor
Shoshy Ciment Business Editor
Stephen Garner News Editor
Jennie Bell Contributing Editor
ART DEPARTMENT
Mariya Ivankovitser Senior Design Director
Emily Harris Associate Art Director
Allison Honors, Rachael Lupton, Samuel Williams Designers
FAIRCHILD MEDIA CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Samantha Conti, Hikmat Mohammed, Tianwei Zhang London
Miles Socha, Joelle Diderich, Lily Templeton, Rhonda Richford Paris
Luisa Zargani, Sandra Salibian, Martino Carrera Milan
Maureen Morrison-Shulas Copy Chief, WWD
PHOTO
Jenna Greene Visual Media Director
Eryn Norton Senior Photo Editor
Ryan Williams Associate Photo Editor
George Chinsee, Lexie Moreland Photographers
VIDEO
Stefan Doyno Senior Director, Video
Asia Khmelova Producer/Camera Operator
FAIRCHILD STUDIO
Arthur Zaczkiewicz Executive Editor
Alexandra Pastore Deputy Strategic Content Editor
Kanika Talwer Business Reporter, Strategic Content Development
FAIRCHILD COMMERCE
Adam Mansuroglu Director of Commerce
Claire Sullivan Senior Beauty & Lifestyle Commerce Editor
Olivia Cigliano Commerce Writer & Producer
ADVERTISING
Amanda Smith President, Fairchild Media Group
Hillari Lazzara Senior Vice President, Sales
Samantha Rumsky Advertising Director
Deborah Baron Advertising Director
Amy Macauley West Coast Director
Jennifer Petersen Advertising Director, Fashion & Luxury
Eric Hertzman Senior Director, Sales & Marketing
Katherine Hogan Account Director
Olga Kouznetsova European Director, Italy
Giulia Squeri European Director, Italy
Elisabeth Sugy-Rawson European Director, France
FAIRCHILD EVENTS
Julianna Cerchio Executive Director, Events
Joy Chernus Senior Director, Events
Caroline Daddario Executive Director, Head of Programming
Alice Song Senior Manager, Programming and Special Events
Gregory Pepe Manager, Events
Elizabeth Hernandez Senior Events Associate
Sophie Guzmán Events Coordinator
Lauren Simeone Director, Audience Development
Trish Reidy Attendee Sales Manager
MARKETING
William Gasperoni Vice President
Christine Staley Senior Director, Marketing and Fairchild Studio
Alexa Dorfman Senior Manager, Marketing
Kayla Gaussaint Associate Marketing Manager
ART DEPARTMENT
Ken DeLago Art Director
Logan Case Senior Designer
Eric Pak, Trinity Krakora Designers
OPERATIONS
Ashley Faradineh Director, Operations
Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator
Rosa Stancil Media Planner
PRODUCTION
Anne Leonard Production Manager
Therese Hurter Premedia Specialist
Germany Feng, Andrew Nguyen Imaging
Hector Galvez Distribution Manager
FAIRCHILD MEDIA GROUP
Amanda Smith President
Michael Atmore Chief Brand Ocer
James Fallon Editorial Director
FOOTWEAR NEWS IS OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION
Jay Penske Chairman & CEO
Gerry Byrne Vice Chairman
George Grobar President
Sarlina See Chief Financial Ocer
Craig Perreault Chief Digital Ocer
Todd Greene E V P, Business Aairs & Chief Legal Ocer
Celine Perrot-Johnson E V P, Operations & Finance
Paul Rainey E V P, Operations & Finance
Tom Finn E V P, Operations & Finance
Jenny Connelly E V P, Product & Engineering
Ken DelAlcazar E V P, Finance
Debashish Ghosh Managing Director, International Markets
Dan Owen E V P, GM of Strategic Industry Group
Brian Levine Senior Vice President, Revenue Operations
Brooke Jae Senior Vice President, Public Aairs & Strategy
David Roberson Senior Vice President, Subscriptions
Doug Bandes Senior Vice President, Partnerships PMC Live
Frank McCallick Senior Vice President, Global Tax
Jessica Kadden Senior Vice President, Programmatic Sales
Judith R. Margolin Senior Vice President, Deputy General Counsel
Lauren Utecht Senior Vice President, Human Resources
Marissa O’Hare Senior Vice President, Business Development
Nelson Anderson Senior Vice President, Creative
Adrian White Vice President, Associate General Counsel
Anne Doyle Vice President, Human Resources
Ashley Snyder Vice President, Associate General Counsel
Brian Vrabel Head of Industry, CPG and Health
Constance Ejuma Vice President, SEO
Courtney Goldstein Vice President, Human Resources
Dan Feinberg Vice President, Associate General Counsel
Denise Tooman Vice President, Marketing, Strategic Solutions Group
Gabriel Koen Vice President, Technolog y
Greta Shafrazian Vice President, Business Intelligence
Jamie Miles Vice President, eCommerce
James Kiernan Head of Industry, Agency Development
Jennifer Garber Head of Industry, Travel
Jerry Ruiz Vice President, Acquisitions & Operations
Joni Antonacci Vice President, Production Operations
Karen Reed Vice President, Finance
Katrina Barlow Vice President, Business Development
Kay Swift Vice President, Information Technolog y
Keir McMullen Vice President, Human Resources
Mike Ye Vice President, Strategic Planning & Acquisitions
Nici Catton Vice President, Product Delivery
Richard Han Vice President, International Sales
Scott Ginsberg Head of Industry, Performance Marketing
Sonal Jain Vice President, Associate General Council
Thomas Ferguson Vice President, Product Licensing
Tom McGinnis Vice President, Corporate Controller
SPRING 2024 DUO CARGO PANT DENIM + MARVELL BAG SILVER + KARI HEEL SILVER
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9
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
THE BIG STORY 9 TECH BEAT 14 RUNWAY RECAP 16 SHOW PREVIEW 18
PHOTO: COURTESY OF UNDER ARMOUR
Under Armour 3.0
Founder Kevin Plank and new CEO Stephanie Linnartz are going all-in on a
new footwear strategy that has more style. BY SHOSHY CIMENT
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
10
THE BIG STORY
“Everybody’s walking around with that [potential
winning] lottery ticket in their pocket,” the brand’s
founder and executive chairman told FN, during
an exclusive interview at the company’s Baltimore
campus in January, where the brand shared a look
at its footwear lineup and strategy for 2024.
To the executive, that ticket might be Under
Armour’s new SlipSpeed mega, set to launch in
February, or perhaps its new Infinite Pro running
shoe that launched in January.
To be sure, the company isn’t just relying on the
luck of draw to find its next footwear hero. Instead,
it’s going all-in on a new strategy for product
design in 2024 that emphasizes lifestyle.
As a performance brand that got its footwear
start in cleats in the early aughts, Under Armour’s
shoe presence has been slow to pick up steam
outside of team sports for younger consumers. Its
$1.5 billion shoe business represented about 25
percent of its total revenues in 2023, compared
with the much larger Nike, whose shoe revenues
make up more than half its business. The goal for
Under Armour is to continue to grow footwear’s
share of the total business.
Meanwhile, teen consumers have been elusive
to Under Armour. Perhaps even more problematic,
the brand missed the boat on the lifestyle trend,
a story that became even more pronounced in
the pandemic and defined the success stories of
Lululemon, Hoka and On.
As Plank put it, “We don’t feel like we’ve played
our best game yet.”
But now, Under Armour’s executive team has a
plan to revamp its products, including footwear,
in line with a broader renewed emphasis on
“sportstyle” — or sporty looks that live in a more
casual setting, à la athleisure. Within footwear, the
company is investing in new design talent with
lifestyle expertise, representing a major shift for a
brand best known for its performance-focused gear.
Under Armour’s chief executive ocer,
Stephanie Linnartz, who is almost a year into her
stint at the company, sees this shift toward more
casual, street-focused looks as a natural response
to changing consumer behaviors. “There’s this blur
now between style, sportstyle, performance and
work,” Linnartz, who joined Under Armour from
Marriott, told FN in an interview. “They want
it all. They want performance and they want
[it to be] good-looking. And our job is to give
consumers what they want.”
That means dominating the tunnel walk,
the o-season athlete and the average lifestyle
consumer who wants a comfortable, stylish
sneaker. And on a broader level, better products
— and more heat — can mean big wins for
Under Armour in the crucial region of North
America, where revenues declined 1 percent in
2023 compared to the prior year.
“We need to create more brand love here in
America,” Plank said. “And we need to do that
through amazing product and story.”
INVESTING IN TALENT AND PRODUCT
Under Armour has bolstered its fashion-forward
mission with several high-profile hirings. The
brand tapped rock ’n’ roll-inspired menswear designer John Varvatos as chief design ocer in
September; and Puma’s former head of sportstyle,
footwear Yassine Saidi, started as chief product
ocer in January. Under Armour also announced
in January that it plans to hire a chief marketing
ocer and a head of footwear.
“With any company, it starts with having the
right people in the right jobs to drive the kind of
results you want,” Linnartz said.
As for product, the lineup for 2024 includes
several new silhouettes that pick up on popular
footwear trends in the market.
The brand is releasing a revamped version of
its Apparition performance run shoe from 2008
with HOVR cushioning technology in spring ’24.
While Under Armour is not as old as other legacy
shoe labels, this sneaker taps into the retro trend
that competitors like New Balance have benefited
from in recent quarters.
Under Armour is also launching a court shoe
this fall that appears to take notes from Nike’s
mega-popular Air Force 1 franchise.
Kevin Plank believes
Under Armour has
what it takes to make
another hit shoe.
Kevin
Plank
Under Armour’s $1.5 billion
footwear business represented
about 25 percent of its total
revenues in 2023
Sportstyle
has become
an important
brand pillar
Available NOW at United Legwear & Apparel Co.
sales@unitedlegwear.com 212.391.4143
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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF UNDER ARMOUR
The lifestyle lens will be evident in the
brand’s newest iteration of the UA SlipSpeed —
the Mega — which launches in February. This
performance training shoe initially launched
in 2022 with a convertible heel design, made
for young athletes who crush the heels of their
sneakers after their workouts.
Linnartz described the newer Mega version
as having a slimmer silhouette and a higher
heel, making it a shoe people can wear during a
run or to just “kick around with your friends at
Starbucks.”
She added, “Our goal is to have performance-
based apparel and footwear that’s awesome for
athletes, but also well designed and beautiful
and stylish. And that’s kind of how we’re
thinking about footwear.”
WINNING SNEAKER CULTURE
Under Armour’s footwear journey began with a
niche: football cleats in 2006 and baseball cleats
the following year.
The brand eventually made its way into
running and basketball, where it has seen some
wins over the years. The UA Flow Velociti Elite
running shoe adorned the feet of Sharon Lokedi
when she won the New York City Marathon
in 2022. And in basketball, the successful
partnership with NBA star Stephen Curry has
been a category-defining win.
But Under Armour never managed to come
out with a true “premium” product that sits
at a higher opening price point and is coveted
by sneakerheads, explained Spurwink River
advisor Matt Powell. “They never captured the
imagination of the sneakerhead in high school
and college,” Powell said.
Tapping into the ever-profitable world of
sneaker culture is a top priority for 2024. This
depends on generating a high level of brand heat
and fine-tuning a distribution strategy that always
keeps demand a little ahead of supply. “It’s got
to be a scarcity story, where they’re not trying
to make millions of pairs of shoes,” Powell said.
“They’re going to need to make small numbers and
have those shoes sell out and create heat.”
Under Armour has told Wall Street in recent
earnings calls that it is targeting a range of
higher-end distribution partners that live in the
mall, specialty run and boutique space. Linnartz
also gave a keynote address to retail leaders who
attended the National Retail Federation’s Big Show
in January.
“It starts with great product. Then you need
to market it and you need to get it on the right
shelves,” Linnartz told FN.
Progress is already being made when it comes to
strengthening brand equity, according to Williams
Trading analyst Sam Poser. “In the near term,
the product is improving and the distribution
is becoming more controlled,” he wrote in a late
January note. “Such improvements are enough to
steady the ship.”
While wholesale makes up about 60 percent
of business — a split the company sees as ideal
— Under Armour is also strengthening its direct-
to-consumer channels. Its U.S. loyalty program
launched last year and surpassed 1 million
members in its first few months.
When it comes to the target consumer, Under
Armour is going all-in on women, particularly the
16- to 24-year-old female varsity athlete. Linnartz
sees footwear as a crucial avenue for growing the
company’s women’s business in the long-term.
Women’s was less than a quarter of revenues as of
November. The brand wants to grow that business
to 50 percent over the next few years by finding
synergies across several categories.
“Footwear, women’s and sportstyle are not
mutually exclusive,” Linnartz told analysts in
May, when she defined the product strategy for
2024 as revolving around these three elements.
Within women’s product, Under Armour has
recently focused more on creating shoes designed
specifically for the female foot, as opposed to
adapting a men’s model.
As Under Armour leans into the sportstyle
category, the brand isn’t letting go of what gives
the company its soul: performance. It is refining
its sports categories like running and basketball
to core silhouettes that maximize function and
comfort. Within sportstyle shoes, Under Armour
is infusing performance innovations into the
construction of these trendier looks.
“We’re always going to be core to our
DNA and our heritage, which is performance,”
Linnartz said. “We are for athletes. That’s
why we exist. And that’s always going to be at
the heart of what we do.”
❚
Stephanie
Linnartz
Brands have
increasingly
stepped up their
marketing to
win over female
consumers
Under Armour
is revamping
legacy styles like
the Apparition
with new tech
innovations
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
THE BIG STORY
12
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FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
TECH
BEAT
14
TECHNOLOGY
PHOTO: ADOBE
The retail shopping experience is changing fast —
and in big ways, thanks to artificial intelligence,
generative AI (GenAI) and predictive AI. From
pricing and personalization to marketing and
merchandising, it’s a retail gamechanger.
But what’s driving the need for this innovation?
In a recent report from IBM’s Institute for
Business Value, researchers said the “retail
landscape is undergoing a transformation,
propelled by changes in consumer preferences
and advancements in new technologies.”
The report’s authors said today’s shoppers
are discerning and “expect a tailored shopping
journey, complete with the convenience of
product choices, detailed information, diverse
payment methods and a seamless integration of
in-store and online experiences that cater to
their individual preferences.”
“Generative AI can help address these
expectations, creating retail environments as
intuitive and unified as they are finely tuned to
individual needs,” IBM said.
In a separate survey of consumers from
tech provider Intellias, researchers found that
shoppers are using AI in dierent ways every
day. The company said U.S. shoppers polled “are
increasingly expecting retailers to leverage AI to
improve their buying journeys.”
The poll also showed generational dierences
in its use. The report’s authors said that of the
U.S. consumers surveyed in the study, 33 percent
said they’re using GenAI tools (programs that
create new content based on user prompts),
with 60 percent of millennials and 49 percent
of Gen Z doing so.
“This widespread and fast-growing adoption
of GenAI is prompting consumers to recognize
where they encounter AI within their buying
journeys — with 41 percent of consumers
currently aware of retailers using AI in shopping
experiences — and where they expect retailers
to leverage AI capabilities to improve customer
experiences,” the report stated.
Coming in at 28 percent, pricing and
promotions top the list of how AI added value
to the shopping experience and was followed by
loyalty and rewards at 23 percent. Online product
discovery also came in at 23 percent, which was
followed by product validation and product
recommendations — both at 19 percent.
However, there was skepticism among the
respondents — especially regarding data security.
“With the speed at which GenAI has been adopted
by retailers and consumers in 2023, perhaps it is
inevitable that the pace has led to some wariness
among shoppers, with 44 percent of those polled
saying that they are mistrustful of brands and
retailers using AI in their shopping experiences,”
the report’s authors said, adding that 66 percent
of those polled said they are concerned “about
how their data is used after an AI interaction
during their shopping journey; and a further 65
percent are concerned that retailers and brands
hadn’t put in place sucient compliance/data
safety procedures when using AI.”
Still, 57 percent of those surveyed said
“they didn’t mind retailers using AI in their
buying journeys as long as they were transparent
about it.” For millennials, that sentiment rose to
66 percent.
Alexander Goncharuk, vice president of retail
at Intellias, said the “hype-curve surrounding
GenAI will continue to accelerate” this year
and will be driven “both by the consumer who
will become even more used to AI interfaces in
their day-to-day lives, as well as by the retailers
innovating and exploring dierent use cases
that drive eciencies and enhance customer
experience across the value chain.”
During the NRF show in early January,
Salesforce came out strong by rolling out one of
its biggest suites of solutions ever. Powered by the
company’s Einstein 1 Platform, the innovations
“aim to transform every shopping experience.”
Salesforce said with generative AI built into its
Commerce Cloud and Marketing Cloud, “retail
merchandisers and marketers can tap into
generative tools with a real-time understanding
of customer behavior and preferences to optimize
every customer interaction — increasing
loyalty, driving revenue and boosting employee
productivity.”
While that sounds like a monumental task,
the Einstein 1 Platform seamlessly integrates
shopper and retail data — and does it while
ensuring a high level of security.
To address the “why does all this matter?”
question, Salesforce, using its own surveys,
said 83 percent of global retailers have seen
operational eciency improvements with AI.
“And 63 percent of marketers say that trusted
customer data is important to implementing
generative AI in their businesses,” Salesforce said.
“Retailers need a solution that can bring all of
their customer data together into one trusted
platform and use it to power the most ecient,
AI-driven retail experiences.”
The complete integration of its solution
includes several e-commerce features such as
Salesforce “Page Designer,” which allows retailers
and brands to customize and design pages
more quickly.
“Return Insights in Order Management” is
also available and helps brands analyze data
to look at patterns in return activity. It uses AI
“to prompt retailers to make product display
changes that minimize future returns,” the
company said in a statement.
Michael Appel, managing director at Getzler
Henrich & Associates, walked the Expo Hall at
NRF and was astounded by how much AI was on
display and was discussed.
“AI was the No. 1 topic at the show, but do
people really understand why?” Appel said. “Here
are actual questions I heard: What the heck
does AI mean? How will it aect our business?
How can we use it? Companies are talking
about how to use AI and machine learning and
integrating it into their business. But the real
question they need to be asking is: Which AI-
based and other technologies are right for us?”
❚
Selling
Smarter
Generative AI is reshaping retail,
with consumers expecting tailored
journeys and retailers leveraging
technology for personalized
experiences. BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ
AI has transformed
online shopping as
well as how brands
engage shoppers
FAIRCHILD STUDIO X RACK ROOM SHOES
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
The company’s INITIATIVES address race, gender and social injustices for a more EFFECTIVE WORKPLACE.
Behind Rack Room Shoes’
Commitment to Supporting an Inclusive
And Diverse Workforce
To the retail chain, creating a
company culture that respects
dierences is one that supports
diversity and promotes inclusion.
One major way Rack Room
Shoes builds consumer trust is
through its partnerships that
promote education, economic
empowerment and civil rights of
women and minorities.
Another tactic Rack Room
Shoes employs is scholarships
and internships that help drive
recruitment, employment and
retention of their associates for a
more just and eective workplace.
Brenda Christmon,
senior director of brand
communications at Rack Room
Shoes, sat down with Fairchild
Studio to discuss its commitment
to DEI and how the company’s
various initiatives foster an
inclusive and diverse workforce.
Fairchild Studio: In your own
words, why are diversity, equity
and inclusion (DEI) initiatives
important at Rack Room Shoes
and how does this present itself
throughout the company?
Brenda Christmon: At Rack
Room Shoes, we believe that DEI
initiatives are essential to creating a
workplace that respects and values
people from all backgrounds.
Our initiatives promote a diverse
workforce and reect customer
diversity while creating an inclusive
culture for all associates.
Our company-wide training
initiative began in 2021 with
mandatory sessions for our
management team, regional
managers, district managers,
corporate associates and store
managers. All new hires are also
required to complete mandatory
DEI training, covering topics
such as “Defeating Unconscious
Bias: 5 Strategies” for store
managers and “Microaggressions
in the Workplace” for corporate
employees. The most enrolled
course to date, which is not
mandatory is “Neurodiversity: What
Is Neurodiversity?” which discusses
a variety of neuro variations to
better understand challenges that
may arise in the workplace.
Annually, we oer 25 new courses.
In addition, training content is
aligned with monthly DEI events,
including Pride Month, Black
History Month, Asian American and
Pacic Islander Heritage Month,
Women’s History Month, Jewish
Heritage Month and more.
We also partnered with a
national DEI training company that
facilitated a 90-minute interactive
dialogue addressing structural
inequality and implicit bias. The
training provided participants
with a unique perspective on the
intersection of race, class, gender,
faith, sexual orientation, age and
ability. Initially, we oered the
training to the Rack Room Shoes
management team, regional
managers, district managers and
directors. In 2023, we extended this
training to our newly developed
employee resource groups (ERGs)
and this year it will be oered to all
corporate associates.
Last year, we established ve
ERGs. Employees were surveyed to
best identify which groups would
be the most impactful within our
corporate oce.
Each employee-led group,
showcases the diverse leadership
talents within our organization and
has a membership ranging from 10
to 20 individuals.
Fairchild Studio: Can you tell us
about creating the IDEA Council?
B.C.: The IDEA Council stands
for Inclusion, Diversity, Equality,
Action. This diverse team was
formed to address specic issues,
projects and other DEI-focused
tasks within our organization.
The council is made up of a
diverse pool of individuals who
are change agents, committed to
making a positive impact for a more
inclusive culture at our corporate
oces, brick-and-mortar stores
and in the communities we serve.
The rst course of action we took
upon implementing the council
was to produce an employee survey
to hear from associates regarding
issues they thought needed to be
addressed. The survey led to an
inquiry regarding pay disparities,
the need for store management
diversity training and better
employee engagement.
Fairchild Studio: How does
Rack Room Shoes aim to
create a company culture that
promotes inclusion and that is
respectful of dierences?
B.C.: We do this by listening to and
gaining feedback from the collective
voices of our associates. We value
and understand the needs and
concerns of our Rack Room Shoes
associates at both the corporate and
store level. This gives us a roadmap
to take action – the most important
element of any DEI team.
Our employee-led ERGs are
creating dynamic connections
by sharing experiences aligned
with their respective missions and
goals. The ongoing company-wide
training provided through the
IDEA Council creates a space for
continuing education and most
importantly, dialog around topics
of microaggression, unconscious
bias, neurodiversity and more.
Fairchild Studio: What are your
takeaways from investing in
company-wide DEI?
B.C.: We’ve witnessed the positive
impact of DEI supporting not only
Rack Room Shoes’ bottom line,
but recruitment and retention as
well. Through varying opinions,
backgrounds and life experiences
– it makes us who we are today as
a company and will continue to
move us forward.
Brenda
Christmon, senior
director of brand
communications
Above: The 2023
intern class.
A dynamic
and talented
group of future
leaders, ready to
make their mark
on the world.
I n the wake of the 2020 mass racial reckoning
across the U.S., DEI initiatives have become an
integral part of company culture and training.
While some companies are starting to scale
back on these eorts, Rack Room Shoes has
remained steadfast to its commitment to DEI.
OUR INITIATIVES PROMOTE
A DIVERSE WORKFORCE
AND REFLECT
CUSTOMER DIVERSITY.”
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FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
16
RUNWAY RECAP
Notable
Mentions
e loafer comeback continues. Slippers slide onto
the scene. Post Milan and Paris, what top men’s
buyers are bullish about for fall ’24. BY STEPHEN GARNER
MOST TALKED ABOUT
LOUIS VUITTON X TIMBERLAND
Pharrell’s third men’s show for Louis Vuitton came with a
grand reveal of the French luxury brand’s new collaboration
with Timberland. Highlights include a classic industrial
boot proposed in wheat-colored or black waterproof nubuck
leather, debossed with the maison’s monogram.
BEST COLLABORATION
JUNYA WATANABE X NEW BALANCE
The shoe seen all over Instagram was a
surprise collab between Junya Watanabe
Man and New Balance. The collaborative
style is a hybrid sneaker-meets-loafer
silhouette in all black. The upper features
a traditional leather penny loafer
construction, while the midsole is taken
from New Balance’s 1906R sneaker model.
MOST ANTICIPATED DEBUT GUCCI
In his first men’s collection for the
Italian fashion house, Sabato De Sarno
chose to focus on one singular footwear
silhouette: the platform Horsebit loafer.
Literally taking the loafer to new
heights, this season’s men’s iteration
features a creeper-inspired platform sole
made of crepe rubber, silver horsebit
hardware and a silver nameplate at the
front of the sole.
RISING STAR BLUEMARBLE
For fall ’24, Bluemarble designer Anthony
Alvarez took the audience on an other-
worldly journey, creating items made
for “earth and elsewhere,” according to
show notes. His standout footwear styles
included the hybrid Odyssey boot with
hiking trims that can be converted to
a slipper and the Celesta sneakers with
heavy-duty rubber soles.
“Without a doubt
the loafer trend will
continue as it has become
such a wardrobe staple.
But this easy-to-wear
style will have competition
from even more minimal
shapes, such as The
Row’s Canal shoe or a
Prada inspired leather
‘slipper’ style.”
– Sophie Jordan, menswear
buying director at MyTheresa
“If pop culture and the zeitgeist is any-
thing to go by, there’s no doubt we’ll
continue to see nostalgic footwear trend
throughout the season, especially after
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton collab with the
heritage boot maker Timberland.”
– Federico Barassi, VP of menswear
buying at SSENSE
17
PHOTOS: LOUIS VUITTON, FENG CHEN WANG, SACAI: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
CRAZIEST SHOE RICK OWENS
The look that caught everyone’s attention in Paris came
via multiple pairs of inflated rubber pull-on stretch boots
from Rick Owens. Done in collaboration with London
designer Straytukay, the style was featured on the runway
in black, forest green, eggshell, burgundy and brown
animal print colorways.
BEST RETRO STYLE BOTTER X REEBOK
Inspired by the vibrant street football culture
of the Caribbean, specifically the island of
Curaçao, the latest Botter x Reebok collaboration
sees the debut of the new Energia Bo Két
soccer boot in gray and blue. The boot, complete
with asymmetric lacing and a foldover tongue,
leans into the retro sneaker trend seen in
recent seasons.
“Men will be in pursuit of
comfortable, cozy shoes and
boots. This is exemplified by the
sought-after Loewe shearling
boots, known for consistently
selling out at our stores.”
– Jonathan Pak, founder and
owner of Patron of the New
BEST BOOT HERMÈS
The French luxur y label had three main
footwear moments during its fall ’24
men’s show last month. The standout
style is a lu x u r iou s new a n k le b o ot m a de
in c a lfsk in leat her w ith a ra ise d not ched
sole. The style, which lends itself to the
platform shoe trend, a l s o f e a t u r e s a strap
and buckle detailing a l o n g t h e back h e e l .
BEST DRESS SHOE
SACAI X J.M. WESTON
Sacai designer Chitose Abe
tapped J.M. Weston for a chic
footwear collab for fall ’24. The
standout style in the range is
the all-new Golf Derbies, which
adds just a hint of whimsy. For
this collab, the traditional derby
upper is mounted on Sacai’s
signature sole that extends back
past the heel for a subtle update
to the traditional menswear shoe.
BEST NEW SILHOUETTE
FENG CHEN WANG
The Chinese-born and London-based
menswear designer, known for her
bold conceptual designs, debuted a
new removable molded sole in Paris
last month. According to Wang, the
3D molded sole, called the Chahu, is
inspired by the shape of a deformed
teapot with irregular edges that are
curved three-dimensionally. The new
sole can be added to Wang’s new
Converse Chuck 70 collab.
“Loafers will remain a staple in
our customer’s wardrobe. As
we move forward, they will con-
tinue to seek fresh footwear
updates in construction and
design that evolve with their
lifestyles. The tracker boot will
feel relevant, as well as lace-up
dress shoes that can be easily
styled up or down.”
– Reginald Christian, senior men’s
fashion manager at Saks Fifth Avenue
18
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
e Atlanta Shoe Market has emerged as the
largest footwear event in the country. Here’s what
to expect at its next edition. BY JENNIE BELL
To kick of its 80th year in business, The Atlanta
Shoe Market (TASM) will hold its largest event
ever this month and introduce a number of new
features and amenities for attendees.
The twice-annual trade event — now the
largest footwear show in the country — is set to
host more than 1,800 brands at its next edition,
on Feb. 17-19 at the Cobb Galleria Centre in
northwest Atlanta.
Laura Conwell-O’Brien, executive director of
TASM, said the show has been sold out since
October and had at least 136 brands on the
waiting list as of press time.
To accommodate more exhibitors at the
February event, Conwell-O’Brien has added
booth space in the Garden Court at the adjacent
Renaissance Waverly Hotel. The area is now
dubbed Fashion Plaza and will be home to
roughly 40 brands, including Greats Brand,
Schutz, D’Amelio Footwear and Karhu, as well
as first-timers such as Frances Valentine, Cocco
Miami, Beira and Rohde Shoes.
“The great thing is that the Fashion Plaza is
even closer [to the Main Hall] than the Fashion
Collection Ballroom, and people will pass by it
every day on their way to and from the hotel,”
said Conwell-O’Brien, who plans to host open-bar
happy hours in the Fashion Plaza from 4-6 p.m.,
NATIONAL
ASSEMBLY
Laura Conwell-O’Brien
as a further incentive to attract retailers.
Another new feature is a Retailers Lounge,
which will be open daily from 8 a.m.-6 p.m. in
an empty storefront in the Galleria mall. “Some
retailers complained — and I agreed with them
— that there wasn’t really any place for them to
go ,” said Conwell-O’Brien. “So this will be nice
for them to have privacy and a space to meet
with their team.” She added that the lounge will
be equipped with complimentary coee and
beverages, with an assistant available to help
address any specific needs at the show.
Attendees will also notice a new badging
system at the February event. Conwell-O’Brien
explained that anyone who pre-registers will
be emailed a barcode that they can use to print
their badge at a kiosk, thus skipping the long
lines at check-in.
The barcode will be synced to TASM’s first
mobile app, which launched last month. The
app features floor plans and updated show
information, as well as hotel reservations. “It’s
going to be new and foreign to some of our
members, but we have a lot of young people
now in the industry, so I think it will be good for
everyone,” said Conwell-O’Brien.
As for other special events, Two Ten’s Women
in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) group will
hold a meeting in the Retailers Lounge on
Sunday, Feb. 18, from 6-7 p.m. The National Shoe
Retailers Association will hold its panel talk on
Sunday morning at 7:45-8:45 a.m., led by Kari
Palmer, creative director of Schuler Shoes. ❚
The Keen booth
Scenes from the August edition of TASM
ABOUT TOWN
Hamilton
Fox Theatre, Atlanta
Feb. 17: 2 p.m., 8 p.m.
Feb. 18: 1 p.m., 7 p.m.
Andrea Bocelli
Gas South Arena,
Duluth, Ga.
Feb. 17: 8 p.m.
Larry Fleet
Tabernacle, Atlanta
Feb. 17: 8 p.m.
________________
Dancing With the
Stars: Live!
Atlanta Symphony
Hall, Atlanta
Feb. 18: 7 p.m.
Atlanta Gladiators
Gas South Arena,
Duluth, Ga.
Feb. 18: 3 p.m.
________________
India.Arie
Center Stage
Theatre, Atlanta
Feb. 18: 6 p.m.
Check out these other events happening in
Atlanta during the trade show weekend.
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKETSHOW PREVIEW
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
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20
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKETSHOW PREVIEW
Rapper Baby Tate
helped The Athlete’s
Foot celebrate its
2023 store opening
Products on
display at Louis
Vuitton’s fall
trunk show
e entertainment hub has a growing consumer base, but some
retailers could nd it tough to break in. BY JENNIE BELL
On a September afternoon last year, Louis Vuitton
oered its own version of southern hospitality
when the Paris luxury brand hosted a trunk show
at Atlanta’s historic Biltmore Hotel.
Influencers, stylists and top-tier clients mingled
over cocktails and bubbly before sitting down
beneath glittering ballroom chandeliers to preview
artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière’s fall collection.
This marked the first time the maison hosted
such an event in Atlanta — and judging by
the enthusiastic reaction from guests during
the shopping portion of the afternoon, there
was abundant demand for its apparel, footwear
and accessories.
Indeed, brands and retailers — across all
segments of the market — reported to FN that
Atlanta is a high-performing city for fashion
and footwear.
Matt Lafone, president of The Athlete’s Foot,
which is based in the city, said, “From my point
of view, Atlanta has become a top-three market
behind New York and L.A.”
Giuseppe Zanotti has had a boutique in the
city’s upscale Phipps Plaza mall since 2013 and
has seen more luxury competitors enter the area
to capitalize on its increasingly auent clientele.
Antony Goureau, managing partner of
Giuseppe Zanotti in Atlanta, noted that — unlike
the brand’s Miami and New York stores — his
ATLANTA’S
SPACE RACE
customers tend to be locals rather than tourists,
with some of those customers being artists like
Usher, Cardi B, Missy Elliott, Jennifer Lopez and
numerous athletes and actors working and living
in the area.
“Atlanta has become a hub for creativity and
entertainment,” said Goureau. “We have a lot of
high-end customers that are shopping here, and
we have a lot of stylists who pick up shoes for
clients or photo shoots.”
The city’s booming economy and growing
population has resulted in a strong retail real
estate market.
Daniel Duque, a retail associate from the
Atlanta oce of brokerage firm CBRE, noted that,
with the rise of hybrid and remote work since
the pandemic, Atlanta’s central business districts
have stagnated, but intown neighborhoods like
Toco Hills and Summerhill are on the rise — plus
anything along the wildly successful BeltLine
trail project. And longtime retail strongholds like
Buckhead and Midtown remain key destinations.
Rental rates remain favorable as well,
averaging $33 per square foot in Buckhead and
$32 in Midtown, according to CBRE Econometric
Advisors. (That compares with $669 per square
foot in Manhattan’s prime retail corridors.)
Julie Hogg, CEO of the streetwear hotspot Wish
Atlanta, said, “The growth here in the last five
years is just unheard of. Everywhere you look,
there’s some sort of development project in all the
neighborhoods. And for retail, it’s a great time for
the Atlanta consumer to just have new options in
terms of places to shop.”
But retailers looking to break into the Atlanta
market may face logistical challenges. Availability
for retail space is at a historic low, with only a 4
percent vacancy rate at year’s end, according to
CBRE. And just 62,000 square feet of new space
was under construction.
“Pricing for land to develop retail is the highest
it’s ever been, so that’s making retail developers
think twice, simply because they can make the
numbers work,” said Duque. “And construction
costs have also made it not financially feasible to
build a lot of new strip centers.”
Current players in the market have gotten
creative as a result. Last year, The Athlete’s Foot
redesigned its existing location in Midtown’s
Atlantic Station, to test out a new store concept.
“The neighborhood that surrounds it has a good
mix of demographics from a racial standpoint and
with a higher household income,” said Lafone.
“You have a lot of nicer high-rises and a lot of
professional athletes live there. We thought it
could be a litmus test for dierent kinds of stores.”
Meanwhile, The Whitaker Group — which
has multiple retail banners in the city, including
A Ma Maniére and Social Status — opted to
construct a new five-story building in the Sweet
Auburn district downtown. The first two floors
will house the next A Ma Maniére door, while
the top levels will be home to the company’s
Living boutique hotel concept and its Eats
dining experience. The project is set to open this
year in the spring or summer.
If competition for space intown has become
too heated, Duque said there’s still plenty of
opportunity outside Atlanta’s I-285 perimeter,
particularly on the south side — one of the
fastest growing parts of the metro area and
home to Trilith Studios, which produces many of
the Marvel films.
Lafone said The Athlete’s Foot is eyeing
opportunities in those markets, as well as
suburban markets like Newnan, Conyers and
Macon. “Because Atlanta has been such a huge
hub for most people, a lot of retailers tend to
forget about these other places,” he said. “We
don’t need every store to be a $5 million store.
We just want to make sure that it’s in the right
communities.”
❚
PHOTOS: BABY TATE: COURTESY OF THE ATHLETE’S FOOT; LOUIS VUITTON: JENNIE BELL FOR FN
Untitled-1 1 1/30/24 9:47 AM
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKETSHOW PREVIEW
22
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
Key store executives sound o on the economy, top trends and the
brands that will deliver them for fall ’24. BY JENNIE BELL
With the fall trade show season in full swing,
The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) has become a
must-visit destination for retail buyers looking
to gain crucial market intel and view a wide
variety of product.
In the weeks before the February event,
leaders from some of the country’s top family
chains and influential independent stores
expressed optimism about the coming season
and explained the importance of the show to
their businesses.
“[Executive director] Laura Conwell-
O’Brien has done a great job assembling
brands that will allow our team to see
emerging trends,” said John Walker, vice
president of merchandising at Shoe Show Inc.
Duy Baehr, owner of Baehr Feet Shoe
Boutique in Spartanburg, S.C., added, “I
enjoy TASM because it’s all under one roof.
No running all over the city to showroom
after showroom. It’s a new vendor every
half hour. And now that it has become
such a big market, it’s a way to see new
categories easily.”
Baehr also highlighted the value of
connecting with other retailers to share intel
on sales winners. “It’s wonderful to have
these friendships where we all wish each
other well and prosperity, instead of back-
stabbing competition,” she said.
Below, the retailers share some of those
valuable market insights, including their
buying strategies and top brands. ❚
GAME PLANS
GARRETT BRETON
PRESIDENT, COMFORT ONE SHOES
OVERALL OUTLOOK “We are optimistic for the
season. We are coming o a third straight year
with double-digit increases in comparable-
store sales. We also just completed our second
acquisition since 2021. We are especially
invigorated by the addition of more than 40
vendor partners through our partnership with
Saxon Shoes. This provides us the opportunity
to gauge new brands in Richmond and learn how
to eectively cross-market to our customer base
going forward.”
BUYING STRATEGY IN ATLANTA “Our focus will
be on exploring new categories and discovering
new brands. We are entering a new market in
Richmond and will be serving a customer base
that extends to children’s shoes for the first time.
We have a great deal to learn and are invigorated
by the new opportunity.”
TOP BRANDS TO SEE “I am particularly excited
about Ziera — we introduced their products
last season and achieved exceptional results.
Additionally, Ugg and Birkenstock have been
instrumental in attracting a younger customer
base to our stores, which is vital for future
growth.”
KEY TRENDS FOR FALL ’24 “Women's platform
bottom items are gaining popularity. I anticipate
styles with maximum cushioning, like Hoka, will
continue to strengthen. There is a resurgence of
’90s styling that is performing well in retail, and I
expect this trend to expand in fall ’24.”
JOHN WALKER VICE PRESIDENT OF
MERCHANDISING, SHOE SHOW INC.
BUYING STRATEGY IN ATLANTA “We are looking
for newness, but we are evaluating strength of
brands and future outlooks by brand.”
KEY TRENDS FOR FALL ’24 “Western, comfort
athletic, flats and seasonal superstars.”
WISH FOR THE INDUSTRY “It is time for brands
to get creative again. With the impact of heavy
inventories and conservative forecasting, brands
have gotten too accounting driven and less
product driven. Product always wins, and it is time
for new creations to show up again.”
JEFFREY SEIDMAN
OWNER, AHH COMFORT SHOES
OVERALL OUTLOOK “My outlook is positive.
December was really good, and January is up.
Understand these are small months, but they
are ones that are on the right trajectory.”
Retailers shop TASM’s August trade show
Skechers Hands
Free Slip-ins
Ultra Flex 3.0
“We added Skechers
this past year — their
hands-free technology
is phenomenal.”
JEFFREY SEIDMAN
Merrell believes in sharing the simple power of
being outside—no matter who you are, where you
come from, who you love, or how you move.
This is fueled by a desire to build a world where
everyone can safely enjoy the benefits of being
outdoors. The leadership starts from within.
Visit merrell.com
Untitled-2 1 1/31/24 12:10 PM
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKETSHOW PREVIEW
24
DUFFY BAEHR
OWNER, BAEHR FEET SHOE BOUTIQUE
OVERALL OUTLOOK “Excitement. ‘What are they
going to have that I love?’ A new season is still
exciting to me after 19 years.”
BUYING STRATEGY IN ATLANTA “2023 was
my best year since 2005, so I will follow my
model from last spring’s market, for pre-fall
and fall delivery.”
TOP BRANDS TO SEE “I’ll start with my ‘musts’:
Ugg, Birkenstock, Softwaves, Jerey Campbell
ADAM BECK CEO, BECK’S SHOES
OVERALL OUTLOOK “We are currently in an
election year with increased expenses, as
well as inflation to contend with. Consumer
confidence is low, unemployment is climbing.
Overall, this is going to be a very dicult
year and you must get back to the basics.
Simplify your business model and invest your
time wisely. It’s all about your people, so
treat them well.”
BUYING STRATEGY IN ATLANTA “Absolutely
focusing on the 80/20 shoes is a must, [where
80 percent of sales come from the top 20
percent of inventory]. A brick-and-mortar
retailer cannot aord to lose a core sale
based on lack of on-hand inventory. Looking
for newness is always part of the game and
shouldn’t stop, but investing in core and
doubling down on that will need to be the focus
moving into the near future.”
WISH FOR THE INDUSTRY “Segmentation
for our channel will be the biggest thing
that I hope I see more of. I know some very
influential individuals in big places are thinking
about these types of strategies. I hope these
executives make the decision to make this a
reality. The cost of doing business continues
to increase and the only way to combat that is
margin through segmentation.”
ADVICE FOR RETAILERS “Independents need
to focus on their communities and tap into
creating their own trends on social platforms.
Give back to the communities that give back to
us. If we can all look at what Ugg did this year
with influencers and replicate that in a much
smaller way, that would be amazing. Focusing
on your paid sponsored social stories within
your communities will go a long w a y.” ❚
BUYING STRATEGY IN ATLANTA “I spend the first
day seeing everybody I don’t know, and then
my appointments with the vendors I’ve worked
with in the past are on Sunday and Monday. I
want to start the show fresh Saturday morning
to soak in things I need to think about. Plus, the
national sales managers and owners tend to
be there on Saturday, and when I’m meeting a
new brand I like to sit down with them to figure
things out. I also encourage all retailers to write
orders. It’s unbelievably important to these
companies that they get the paper at the show,
and we need the trade shows — if we don’t
write paper, the brands will stop going.”
TOP BRANDS TO SEE “With Aravon leaving
the marketplace [following the changes at
Rockport], we are in desperate need of a
waterproof booty that comes in widths with a
retail price between $150 to $180. We added
Skechers this past year — their hands-free
technology is phenomenal. I need three more
brands like that in medium wide and extra wide.
I’m also looking for an athletic brand that’s
going to have margins of 50 to 55 percent. That
is an ongoing battle for 30 years. New Balance
had done phenomenal in that space, but they
have reorganized their margin structures.”
Ugg’s New
Heights
Cozy Clog
for fall ’24
Beck’s
Shoes has 27
locations on
the West Coast
“[Ugg] is the master
at supply and demand
and, wow, they’ve
been in great demand
last year and now.”
DUFFY BAEHR
and a few new favorites that performed well,
Silent D and Schutz. I then add my cocktail
party vendors (Pelle Moda, Vaneli) and
sneakers (Woolloomooloo, P448 and Dolce
Vita). Ballet flats are having a moment again,
so I will see Paul Mayer for sure. And I like to
see what Cecelia NY has. I think they have the
prettiest selection.”
KEY TRENDS FOR FALL ’24 “Ballets, plus I
keep a good selection of cocktail/wedding
shoes since social events have come back
with a bang. I will have to stock up again on
Birkenstock Bostons and Big Buckle any
style. They all sold very well for me last year.
And one must not forget Ugg — the Ugg Ultra
Minis (single sole and platform), regular
Mini Platforms, Tazz, Tasman, Disquette and
whatever newness Ugg has to oer. The brand
is the master at supply and demand and,
wow, they’ve been in great demand last year
and now.”
Tru Show Feb 4-5
Atlanta Shoe Show Feb 17-19
Coterie Feb 20-22
Chicago Collective Mar 3-5
Dallas Market Mar 19-22
Atlanta Apparel Apr 9-12
info@allblackfootwear.com
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKETSHOW PREVIEW
26
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
ese fall ’24 women’s trend stories are poised to be market
must-haves. Preview a few styles to stock for the season.
SNAP ’EM UP
HOOKED
ON HEIGHT
Rieker elevates
a double- gore
Chelsea boot with a
ridged flatform
FRESH MIXES
Color-blocking adds
an eye-catching
element to lifestyle
sneakers, such as
JBU’s Silene style
BALLET’S NEXT STEP
The ballerina flat takes a more
rugged turn this season, as seen
with Aetrex’s Brianna style
STATEMENT
STOMPERS
Cougar oers its
interpretation of the
oversized boot trend
with the Verona style
A MARY MOMENT
With ’90s style still in high demand,
All Black has multiple unique
interpretations of the Mary Jane
BOUCLÉ IN
ABUNDANCE
Baretraps’ Gwenda
sneaker illustrates
the versatility of
this ladylike
textured material
PLAYFUL KITTENS
With cutouts and a subtly
flared heel shape, Kenneth Cole
updates a classic silhouette
THE OTHER
METALLICS
Forget gold and
silver — brands like
Ecco have taken
a shine to bronze
this season
A
A
With decades of experience, Steve Madden’s
executive team is powering the future of footwear.
For the first time, Madden sits down with his two
key leaders, CEO Ed Rosenfeld and president
Amelia Newton Varela, for a candid conversation
about navigating the industry’s changing
landscape and adapting to the digital age.
BY NIKARA JOHNS
PHOTOGRAPHED BY AXEL DUPEAUX
THE A TEAM
I
“I could tell you the hottest shoe
from 1980 to now.”
Sitting on a stool inside PMC Studios in
New York, Steve Madden — wearing his
signature Yankees cap — is reflecting on
some of his own greatest hits through the
years. He lights up when he talks about the
Mary Lou, the big-toed patent leather Mary
Jane that defined ’90s style and became an
instant favorite among teen girls.
More than three decades after launching
his namesake firm, Madden is still the
same consummate product guy. Creating
is what drives the founder — and it’s his
biggest strength. That’s why Madden has
long relied on his two loyal partners —
chief executive ocer Ed Rosenfeld and
president Amelia Newton Varela — to
execute the business vision.
At a time when industry turnover is
rampant, this trio has been together for
almost two decades — transforming the
company from a single brand into a
$2 billion powerhouse that also includes
Dolce Vita, Betsey Johnson, Blondo, Greats
and the licenses for Anne Klein footwear
and handbags.
Newton Varela began her career
with Madden in 1998 as the account
executive for the women’s wholesale
division, ultimately becoming president
in 2015. Rosenfeld joined the executive
management team in May 2005 before
rising to CEO in 2008.
following its purchase of contemporary
brand BB Dakota in 2019.
“I’m excited to see shoes, handbags and
apparel all clicking at the same time,”
Newton Varela said.
Madden, a master of collaboration, isn’t
slowing down on that front either. The
founder has always had his finger on the
pulse of the cultural zeitgeist, teaming
with Cardi B, Olivia Jade, Sydney Sweeney,
Caroline Vreeland, Winnie Harlow, the
Olsen twins and more through the years.
In March, Madden will debut a
collaboration with rising designer Jessica
Rich, who took home the Emerging
Talent Award at the 2022 FN Achievement
Awards. “She’s a young woman trying
to make her way, and I dig that,”
said Madden.
“We’re both very strong-minded, take-
it-or-leave-it type of people and we get
business done no matter what,” said Rich
of the collab. “His consistency, work ethic
and his business have proven [that] over
the last 30 years. Steve Madden believing
in me and my brand is validation.”
Here, Madden and his team sit down for
their first joint interview to discuss their
unwavering dedication to the job, hybrid
work and the road ahead.
Why does your partnership
still work after all these years?
Amelia Newton Varela: “We’re
brainwashed [laughs]. Every day is a new
day. It keeps it interesting. If you have a
good work ethic and passion, you usually
do well here. We’re a big company, but we
run it like a small company. We’re always
thinking of everything.”
Ed Rosenfeld: “We share a similar work
ethic. You have to care a lot. No matter
how big we get or how the business
changes, we work hard to make sure we
stay scrappy, entrepreneurial and gritty —
and that we move fast and act with a sense
of urgency. That has been important to me
since I started, and it remains so.”
Steve Madden: “We have a responsibility
to care about what we do and not take it
for granted — to understand that if the
firm does well, more people get to work. If
we make more money, then more people
get jobs and health insurance. And all
three of us think about that. We think
about the consequences of not doing
well. There’s a lot of respect for our work.
We tend to like self-starters. It was very
outside the box when we appointed Ed [a
former finance and banking executive] as
CEO. It’s obviously worked very well, and
it’s one of the things I’m most proud of. It
wasn’t done like that back then.”
“One of the great things is that we all
have dierent skill sets,” Madden said
during a conversation with Rosenfeld and
Newton Varela. “We also share a value
system. We have certain principles in our
company that we all deeply believe in.”
The leaders, united in their vision, have
been working closely together to navigate
a complex footwear climate. Reflecting
on a particularly dicult 2023, Rosenfeld
calls it a “once-in-a-generation dynamic,”
particularly in wholesale. But amid
broader industry recovery, the company
is bullish about a brighter 2024.
Tacey Powers, Nordstrom executive
vice president and general merchandise
manager for shoes, said the brand
continues to resonate with consumers for
its aspirational design at an accessible
price point. She said, “They are one of the
first brands to identify footwear trends
and can move with speed to maximize the
moment with product.”
“We’re positioned nicely,” Madden
said. “Inflation is coming to an end —
maybe. We thought we were going to
have a very nasty recession and we’re
not. Everybody’s kind of breathing a
sigh of relief.”
As one of the most acquisitive footwear
players, the company has been expanding
its apparel business through a series
of deals. Madden snapped up Almost
Famous in October for $52 million,
We have a responsibility
to care about what
we do and not take it
for granted.” — Steve Madden
GROOMER: MIRNA JOSE; MAKEUP: NAOKO SUZUKI
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4
You’ve always focused on cultivating a
distinct culture, and in this hybrid era
you’re in the oce four days a week. Do
you think being together in person is
critical to Steve Madden’s success?
ANV: “Yes, I do. We’re in the fashion
business. It’s moving fast.”
SM: “I agree with her. And I disagree with
her. Like, let’s go back to work. But one
must be aware of the marketplace now.
The world has changed. It’s tricky. I was
totally against [remote]. And now I think
it’s good for recruitment to [enable us to
get] top, talented people. It’s a benefit. And
one needs to be thoughtful about it.”
What are the biggest ways the business
has changed since you started out?
ANV: “You’re in consumers’ faces every
day, all day long. In the past, you would
just see a billboard when you passed. Or
when you opened up the magazine, that’s
when you saw the ad. Now it’s constant. It’s
a complete game changer. The influencers
are the ones driving sales. It’s a completely
dierent industry to me now.”
ER: “The industry is always evolving.
And there’s lots of continual change in
terms of styling and consumer behavior
and distribution channels, but I also think
some things remain the same. Like great
brands, products, customer experiences,
that’s what matters. If you’re consistent
with that, you’ll be OK.”
As the industry continues to shift and
evolve, what sets Steve Madden apart
after all these years?
ER: “Product has always been what
separates us from others. We always focus
on that. That doesn’t change. We have to
make sure that we’re also continuing to
raise our game in terms of marketing and
consumer engagement. But it’s always
going to be product first.”
ANV: “We could be in a meeting going
over next year’s budgets, but if the design
team comes in with a shoe, everything
stops and we focus on that. Product is first.
Then it’s all about our speed to market and
constant testing and reacting. That’s what
keeps us dierent from our competition.”
How has your sourcing strategy
evolved with the China landscape
becoming more complicated?
ANV: “We work with Mexico, and we do
a lot in Brazil. We’ll continue with some
China production. But we haven’t slowed
down at all. If anything, I think we’re going
to be getting faster.”
The weakness in the wholesale
business last year impacted Steve
Madden more than some of your
competitors. What is your outlook for
this channel going forward and how
important is it to your future?
ER: “Last year was a uniquely challenging
dynamic in the wholesale business,
particularly in the U.S. Virtually every
major retailer at the end of 2022 found
themselves with way too much inventory.
They went into 2023 pulling back, and
that definitely impacted us because that’s
a big part of our business. The good news
now is that almost all those retailers have
their inventories much more in line. The
channel is much healthier, so I do think
we’re positioned to see a recovery in that
business, which is so core to us in 2024.”
Has your target consumer evolved?
Where is your sweet spot today?
ANV: “We continue to hit all ages. We
want that young girl coming in because
once we get her, we have her. And we also
still want the mom buying for her kid.”
SM: “We just try to make cool shoes and
that’s it. We let the chips fall where they
may. People put us into little slots. But the
shoes are quite universal. And particularly
when you get out of the coasts, they tend
to skew older.”
Every brand wants to figure out how to
win over Gen Z. Amelia and Steve, do
you use your teens as sounding boards?
SM: “All of my kids are a big influence. My
daughter Stevie wears Sambas and it makes
me crazy. It’s heartbreaking. It’s about what
they’re listening [to], what they’re watching
— that kind of inspiration.”
ANV: “I have a son who is 14. I look at
his little friend group and the girls who
come over. I see the shoes they leave by the
doorway and what they’re wearing, so I’m
always asking questions. I know Steve gets
crazy with Sambas. I get crazy with Uggs.”
In terms of categories, what are you
seeing as the biggest opportunity?
ANV: “Dress. I’m seeing a lot of closed-toe,
open-back footwear happening. And I feel
like the girl doesn’t have it in her closet.
Kitten heels, slingbacks, and sneakers
continue. Flat sandals are still important.
In that category, I would say footbeds are
going to continue. All our embellished flats
have been getting excellent reads, so we’re
happy about that. I’m excited about spring.”
Steve, you’ve made many hit shoes —
the Mary Lou and the Slinky are
just two examples. How do you strike
gold like that now?
SM: “I always think, ‘Could this be it?’
It’s always possible. It’s no dierent than
before. It’s just the way you reach them
now. The stars have to be aligned. It’s
an amazing thing when it happens. I
think about what makes a big song. It’s a
wonderful mystery that I love.”
Earlier today, you mentioned the viral
mob wife aesthetic that’s trending
on TikTok. How do you organically
immerse yourself in that conversation
and other TikTok trends?
SM: “We’ve sort of always had a little ‘mob
“Product is first. Then
it’s all about our speed to
market and constant testing
and reacting. That’s what
keeps us dierent from our
competition.
— Amelia Newton Varela
DISCOVER MORE
AT ATLANTA SHOE MARKET
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wife’ vibe. We were voted number-one
organized crime.” [laughs]
ER: “[That is an example] where we would
take a shoe that we already have in leopard
and style it [for the trend].”
ANV: “Sometimes the items emerge.
We know it’s a good item, but we don’t
know how big it’s going to be. And then
you go on TikTok, it’s there. From there,
it’s all about what we do best, chasing
and reacting. That’s why speed is
important when something emerges
within the season.”
You’ve been aggressive about
expanding into categories beyond
footwear. Talk about your strategy
there and what’s working.
ER: “Handbags and apparel have
been growing rapidly for us. Non-shoe
categories are 25 percent of our business
now. We bought BB Dakota in 2019 and
converted that to Steve Madden Apparel.
We’re pleased with what we’re seeing there.
And then we also did another acquisition
at the tail end of last year — Almost
Famous — which rounds out our apparel
capability. It’s complementary because
the Steve Madden business is [focused]
on contemporary styling and [targeted
to] premium channels. This gives us a
business that’s focused on more value-
priced channels.”
Getting the wholesale/direct-to-
consumer balance right has been a
challenge for every company. How
are you approaching this strategy?
OPENING THE VAULT
See a Steve Madden “Big Head Girl” ad
and you’re immediately transported to the
early 2000s. The campaign originally ran
from 1997 to 2005, featuring models with
digitally altered, oversized heads posing in
the designer’s latest styles. They had big
feet, giant eyes, long legs and tiny waists.
“‘Eloise at the Plaza’ was sort of the
influence for it. That kids’ book was the
vibe I wanted,” Madden told FN. “Of course,
it looks nothing like Eloise, which is the best
sort of creative process. When you start
with one thing and it goes somewhere else,
it’s cool. And that’s what it was and it was
groundbreaking.”
The campaign was such a hit that it
influenced Bratz dolls creator Carter
Bryant, which subsequently ignited a
lawsuit from campaign photographer
Butch Belair.
“We actually had nothing to do with
the lawsuits, but everyone copied my
big heads,” said Madden. “Even Martin
Scorsese used it in his film [‘The Wolf of
Wall Street’], which is unbelievable if you
think about it.”
The ads continued despite Madden
being sentenced to prison in 2002. “We
used to have a bit of fun and put my
prison ID numbers in the ads just for a
laugh,” he said.
In 2021, the company reprised the look
for its Maddenverse campaign featuring
Normani, Jordan Alexander, Sydney
Sweeney, Nessa Barrett and Justine Skye.
The stars were reimagined as Madden’s
“Big Head” girls, created into avatars and
wearing Madden’s fall designs.
“We’ll always bring it back,” added
Madden. “It’s never going away.”
Steve Madden reveals the inspiration behind his iconic “Big Head”
campaign from the ’90s and early aughts.
ER: “DTC has become increasingly
important for us. It’s up over 50 percent
since pre-COVID. Most of that has been
driven by digital. Digital used to be a
little over a quarter of our DTC business,
now it’s half. That’s obviously a continued
focus because we want to be where our
customers are. But [online] is not the only
place they are. We’re still focused on brick-
and-mortar and on wholesale.”
What is in the pipeline for your
physical stores this year?
ER: “We’re going to add to the store base,
mostly outside the U.S. [Seven openings
are planned for the Middle East, two in
Canada, two in Mexico, two in South Africa
and one in Europe.] We’re also investing
in the U.S. stores via remodels. We’re
refreshing the fleet, kicking o with our
Times Square location.”
Internationally, where do you see
the biggest opportunity?
ER: “Europe has been the biggest and
fastest-growing market for us over the
last several years. We’re also excited about
the Middle East.”
You’re focused on looking ahead,
but let’s look back for a minute.
What advice would you give your
younger self?
ANV: “Live in the solution more and
worry less. When I was younger, I
stressed out so much, but I wasn’t living
in the solution. It took me time, as I
grew, to focus on that.”
ER: “I would tell myself that you can
take your job very seriously and still be
able to sleep at night.”
SM: “I would say, you know, you’re not
that ugly. That’s the answer.”
❚
Great brands, products,
customer experiences,
that’s what matters. If
you’re consistent with that,
you’ll be OK.”— Ed Rosenfeld
PHOTO: COURTESY OF STEVE MADDEN
CYAN
MAGENTA
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36
When Janice Tenna nt walks through
the doors of Pensole Lewis College of
Business and Design in Detroit — a
few hours away from her home base in
Rockford, Mich. — the Merrell president said she
often thinks about the younger version of herself.
“Sometimes, I find it strange where I am now
because I know what it’s like. I was in [these
students’] shoes. I was at my cubicle, writing
marketing briefs. There is something I want to
convey by being present. I want to say, ‘I was there,
and you can be here. It is possible,’” said Tenna nt,
who spent 15 years in the consumer packaged goods
industry before joining Wolverine Worldwide as chief
marketing ocer at Cat Footwear in 2018.
Today, the executive — who assumed the global
brand president role at Merrell in June 2023 —
is here at Pensole with footwear design veteran
Dr. D’Wayne Edwards in the school he transformed
into the country’s first historically Black college and
university (HBCU) focused on design.
With DEI at a critical crossroads, it’s an important
moment to bring the leaders together. The stakes are
high for the industry as uncertainty looms over the
legality of corporate DEI programs amid a highly
charged political environment. The aftermath of
the Supreme Court’s controversial ruling to end
armative action in higher education — coupled
with widespread budget cuts that have some
diversity programs on the chopping block —
is creating what Edwards calls “chaos” in the
near-term.
But he remains undeterred in his mission, and
Edwards wants Pensole, Michigan’s only HBCU,
to be known as the industry’s college — a place
where companies and students come together to
collaborate, learn from each other and build a
lasting community.
“Brands fill quotas by hiring one or two people
of color, but they never think about the community
that they need to build for those people to stay or
feel comfortable in that environment,” Edwards said.
“I didn’t have community for the first 15 years of my
career. That’s lonely and tiring.”
Below, Tennant and Edwards get candid about
the complexities of where we are now when it comes
to DEI and the path forward. The conversation has
been edited for clarity.
How would you assess the progress made within
the industry since the racial reckoning that
unfolded in 2020 after George Floyd’s murder?
What programs have worked? And what hasn’t?
Dr. D’ Wayne Edwards: “I can only speak to what
we’ve done and who we’ve worked with. If a brand
comes to me and I smell that it’s not real, I don’t
After recent progress, DEI has been met with daunting
new challenges that could disrupt the path forward. Here,
Dr. D’Wayne Edwards of Pensole Lewis College and
Merrell global brand president Janice Tennant discuss
those obstacles and reveal why they remain hopeful.
BY PETER VERRY PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATTHEW LAVERE
Follow the
LEADERS
“
38
work with them. The best programs
are those that are a part of how they do
business, not a moment. Whether George
Floyd’s murder sparked that idea or not,
whichever way they got there, they got
there. That’s the important part. On the
flip side, there are a lot of people who
made pledges, and those same people are
getting rid of their DEI programs. It’s no
longer important to them. That tells you
they weren’t serious in the first place. But
to me, it was flawed from the beginning
because no one likes to be forced to do
anything. I feel a lot of people felt they
were forced or compelled to do something
in 2020 because everyone else was doing
it. ‘I’ve got to do something because
Nike and Jordan did something.’ The big
ones lead and everybody else follows.”
Janice Tennant: “From a Merrell
perspective, we did some reflection.
The first step was for us to look at
our [outdoor] space and how our
consumers participate in that space. We
commissioned a global study around the
outdoors and people feeling like they are
included in that space.”
DE: “You guys were on it early, too.
Before 2020, you were on it.”
JT: “It gave us interesting insights about
people of color and how they feel in
outdoor spaces — women, too. It’s helped
inform the way we do things — the type
of content that we share, the influencers
we engage with who can help broaden
the lens of what outdoor participation
looks like. There’s still way more learning
and things we can do better, but it’s a
commitment that every year we are a
little bit better than last year. Those
small, incremental steps over time will
start to drive bigger shifts in how we
see and do things.”
DE: “Gradual growth is always more
sustainable than spikes.”
How did the U.S. Supreme Court’s
armative action ruling change how
some companies are approaching
diversity? How big of a chilling eect
has it had?
DE: “I’m disappointed folks are trying
to erase 400-something years of
oppression and [reverse] laws that helped
us have an idea of equality. If you are
spending money to market and advertise
to a kid that’s of color for them to buy
your products or services, you have an
obligation to give them another option
besides buying something. It’s going to be
harder for them to erase DEI initiatives
because, at some point, as soon as people
of color understand our spending power
— which is $1.6 trillion — then they’ll
start to speak with their dollars and
then things will go backward at those
organizations. If you’re relying on them
to build your brand, you should have a
lane to help build them. But I think it’s
great for HBCUs, quite honestly. You
have to remember, HBCUs were created
because we were legally not allowed to
be educated in the 1800s, so we created
inclusive institutions called historically
Black colleges and universities. There’s
always been a place for you. It is up to
you to find the right one.”
What do you think the short- and
long-term implications of this ruling
are on corporate strategy?
DE: “Short-term, chaos and confusion
among people and brands. It’s going to
be at the brand level first because they’re
going to have to figure out what side
of the fence they sit on — especially for
those who market and advertise [to us].
They can’t just automatically undo that.
Their consumer is going to feel a certain
kind of way, their employees are going
to feel a certain kind of way. It’s also
creating a wider divide. America was
never united, so the division is going to
be even greater. But the positive, for me,
is I hope through that obvious attack on
equality, the folks that are being unjustly
treated will understand there’s strength
in numbers, there’s strength in unity.”
Long-term, how do you ensure DEI
is part of company DNA versus an
initiative?”
DE: “Organizations [should look] at
their entire supply chain, not just their
footwear supply chain. Who is the
electrician? Who is the plumber? Who
are the attorneys? That’s how it becomes
part of your business. If it’s just in
product creation, that doesn’t move the
needle because you’re thinking that if
more diverse people are making product,
it would appeal to a more diverse
customer and we can sell more things.”
JT: “Working in a corporate
environment is a team sport. Teams
are made up of dierent people
intentionally with dierent skill sets,
capabilities, leadership skills. Sometimes
in a corporate environment, we forget
that. When you want to get the best out
of a team, we as leaders have to learn
how to bring them together. I would
rather that principle be the thing that
brings us together versus something
that’s been mandated. For me, that’s an
important shift in how we think. How
do we bring out the best in people? It’s
about understanding the role they play.”
In many ways you’re pioneers. How do
you view yourselves in relation to this
industry?
DE: “I look at [mysel f ] through the lens
of I’m not new. And I tell my students
this, too. Some version of you existed in
someone else. You have to have armor to
go into a place where you’re uncomfortable
and there are no lights on to know where
you’re walking. My career coach, Johan
Khalilian, tells me it’s not healthy for me
to be motivated by negativ ity. I was like,
‘Dude, it’s working for me. Whenever
someone tells me I can’t do something, I’m
good.’ For some people, it has the reverse
eect. It wasn’t my goal to be a ‘pioneer.’
I just wanted to do what I thought was
right. I’m uncomfortable with the word
because there are people more deserving
than me.”
JT: “I’m in the same place. That’s not
the word for me. If anything, I’m a baton
carrier. I have the baton right now and
I’m looking for who I’m going to pass
it to next. This is the leg [of the race]
I’m running. When you say ‘pioneer,’ it
doesn’t register for me at all.”
“The best
[DEI] programs
are those
that are part
of how they do
business, not
a moment”
— Dr. D’Wayne
Edwards
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“
How do each of you define success?
DE: “I don’t like the word ‘success.’ It’s
a past-tense word. As a designer, I’m
programmed to see two and three years
at a time. One thing I’ve learned is I
need to say, ‘OK, that happened,’ celebrate
and keep it moving. What I [tell my
students] is to let someone else talk about
what you’ve done. If they are, that means
you did something right.”
JT: “My definition is similar. I’m future-
oriented, taking learnings in the moment
and going. It’s not until someone else
takes a moment to say, ‘Janice, reflect
on this.’ I try to, but I’m not good at it.”
How are you pushing transformation
at Merrell and Pensole, respectively?
JT: “There’s a lot of transformation
taking place, and it’s anchored from
a consumer perspective. Where are
consumers going? Where is the landscape
going? By investing in things like
research in this school, it’s allowing us
to unearth opportunities, new ways of
thinking about our business with fresh
eyes. It’s invigorating our teams to think
about what is possible versus what has
not been happening.”
DE: “Having experience on the corporate
side, it allows me to look at education
through a new lens. And having great
partners like Wolverine and Merrell has
accelerated that process. Our goal is
to give every partner ROI because I’m
functioning in this school like I’m still at
a brand. When I was designing, I never
looked at shoes. I was always in other
industries. That was how you brought
new stu into footwear, by not being in
footwear mentally. It’s the same here.
When a kid comes here, we’re exposing
them to other things and they’re going to
look at footwear dierently versus always
looking online and seeing the things
everybody else has done.”
JT: “The Black Footwear Forum [held at
Pensole] feels more like a TED Talk with
innovators and thinkers from dierent
industries — automotive, sports and so
forth. It’s an innovative way to think
about the industry and evolving the
industry for what is next. And I see that
in your students. The capstone project
at the end of the master class, you see
how they present their ideas, the quality
of the work. It feels like they are an
extension of your team, not like a student
doing a class project. Conversations get
focused on the U.S., but as a global brand
leader, I’m focused on the globe, and I
need my teams to represent that globe
for us to win — and we’re better and
stronger because of it. I value my team’s
perspective. Them helping to inform our
strategies and our direction is critical.”
How have your learnings at
Pensole impacted the work you’re
doing to help diverse members of
the Wolverine team?
JT: “Mentoring is a key piece. Our days
“My biggest
feat is see-
ing young,
diverse talent
come into the
organization,
get frustrated,
not develop the
conversational
skills to work
through issues
and then leave
too soon”
— Janice
Tennant
are busy, but I make time for people to
have those candid conversations. It’s
important. My biggest fear is seeing
young, diverse talent come into the
organization, get frustrated, not
develop the conversational skills to
work through issues and then leave too
soon. I’ve seen this pattern throughout
my career. One thing I try to do is
help people learn how to work through
[those issues]. Another piece is
partnership. With Pensole, it’s a chance
to bring people into the organization
to give them real, hands-on working
experience, to understand the industry.
I’m thankful Wolverine has invested in
this because that’s helped infuse new
learnings, experiences and ideas.”
How do you build authentic
communities at Pensole?
DE: “A ll of it is organic. Maya Angelou
has a quote: ‘People will forget what you
said, [people will forget what you did],
but people will never forget how you
made them feel.’ That’s the way I operate.
You don’t show up in people’s lives to get
something from them. You show up to
give them something. The beauty of what
we’re building here is people are helping
each other. The Black Footwear Forum
[has so much] talent in one room. There’s
power in that room, and they come
because they want to be here, they want
to give back and connect. Pensole was
built o community. All of our instructors
are people I used to work with. I say to
my students, if I’m blessing you with an
opportunity, you have to bless two more
people. [For example], interviews are a
bad blind date. With a community, if you
have an interview somewhere, you can
call and say, ‘Give me intel about who I
am going to talk to.’ That’s power.”
How is the next generation going
to chart the path forward for DEI
in the shoe industry?
JT: “Sometimes people are down
on millennials and Gen Z, but I
fundamentally think they operate and
see the world dierently. That gives
me hope. That’s who I am passing the
baton to. That and new thinking, new
innovations in the way we think about
bringing people together, growing
places that are more inclusive, whether
corporate or recreational spaces.”
DE: “Our symbol is a pencil and a
torch. It’s intentional. Our goal is to give
them tools, so when they leave with the
light on, they know where they’re going
and the light stays on. As long as we
continue to shine it, and individually we
own the responsibility of keeping that
light lit, it’s going to be bright. If more
people had that mentality of sharing
knowledge and uplifting and helping
folks, we’d be undeniable.”
❚
Ultra exible. Exceptionally comfortable.
Visit ECCO at the Atlanta Shoe Market.
Untitled-1 1 1/31/24 10:20 AM
No matter your store size, style or volume, join us for an invaluable
gathering of minds that will help you reach next-level success.
One store, two stores, three stores, more?
National Shoe Retailers Association
Footwear Forum
(Formerly Leadership Conference)
Featured Speakers
Dr. Michelle Rozen
The Workplace Generational Gap
and How To Motivate Anyone
To Go The Extra Mile
Gregg Frederick
Making ‘Good’ Leaders ‘Great’:
A Path To Success
Pete Mohr
Unlock Your Retail Freedom:
Frameworks For Team Effi ciency
and Personal Liberation
May 8 &9, 2024
Hershey, PA
•Two Ten WIFI Panel Discussion
• Peer-to-Peer Roundtable Discussions
• Networking & Relationship Building
• Distribution Event with Soles4Souls
• Social Breakfasts & Luncheons
• Cocktail Parties & Dinner Events
• Vendor Exhibits
• Prize Challenges
Quality time where every moment presents an opportunity to
gain insights, get inspired, and build vital industry relationships.
See event details at nsra.org/event/Hershey
Or call 520-209-1710
Join Us!
Registration closes March 18, 2024
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PROOF
FUTURE
e 10 issues that could make
or break business in 2024
43
44
PHOTO: GRAPH: ADOBE; PHONE: GETTY IMAGES
Shoe players have ramped up eorts to
bring employees back into the oce to
promote in-person collaboration and
culture — a trend that will likely continue
in 2024. But to avoid alienating employees,
companies should make sure they are
listening to employee feedback in creating
their new hybrid schedules.
An October 2023 report from Gallup
found that only 12 percent of hybrid
employees were asked to collaborate on a
schedule for coming into the oce.
“Include your workforce in determining
how you want to work together,” said
Resume Builder chief career advisor Stacie
Haller. ‘“If employees have a say in some of
that, or at least they’re contributing, that’s
a great first step.”
For example, Neiman Marcus created its
hybrid working model based on feedback
from employees. The company last year
opened its “Corporate Hub” concept in
Dallas, where employees can operate in a
hybrid, remote-friendly environment that
facilitates digital and in-person connection
with other team members. Target also
allows its managers and teams to choose
which oce system works best for them
and plans to bring its employees into its
oce for just four key weeks during 2024.
“Organizations can create the right
business environment so that everybody
knows they have to be in on certain days,”
explained Carolyn McCall, founder and
CEO of McCall Brand Advisors.
Some brands have ditched the oce
requirements altogether. Faryl Robin
Gilston, founder of Faryl Robin footwear,
has always allowed sta to work from
anywhere. “This flexibility has allowed us
to attract top-tier global talent,” she said.
— Shoshy Ciment
TikTok Shop is
changing the
e-commerce playing
field. After launching
in September last
year, it’s poised to be
the next big thing.
A recent report
from Bloomberg
stated that TikTok,
owned by ByteDance
Ltd., aims to grow
the size of its
U.S. e-commerce
business tenfold to
as much as $17.5
billion this year.
And it’s just the
start, experts say.
“There’s a lot
more access for the
creator economy
today through TikTok
Shop than we've ever
seen before, and
we’re seeing a lot
more creators who
are not necessarily
influencers but
they’re creating for
their community.
It’s driving a lot of
revenue that was
never predicted,”
explained Liza
Amlani, principal and
founder of consulting
company Retail
Strategy Group.
Via TikTok
Shop, brands and
creators are able to
showcase and sell
products directly
on the platform
through a suite of
in-app shopping
touchpoints.
According to the
app, 70 percent of its
users discover new
brands and products
on TikTok. So far,
however, luxury
brands are slow to
get on board as the
platform is still in
its infancy.
Why TikTok
Shop is gaining so
much ground is its
democratic approach
and low barrier
to entry — it has
established itself
as a platform for
lower-priced items.
And despite hiking
its U.S. seller fees
from 2 percent to 8
percent this year, it
is still significantly
lower than Amazon,
for example.
Brands should
take TikTok Shop
very seriously, added
Amlani: “Because the
number of users is
growing at such a fast
rate, this is going to
start to scare brands
and a lot are going to
be left behind.”
In the Consumer
Trends survey, the top
product categories
on TikTok Shop
are apparel and
accessories, as well
as health and beauty
and makeup. Buyers,
on average, placed
1.5 orders, spending
$45. In terms of
demographics, Gen
Z and millenials
make up the majority
of users, with 55
percent under age
35. But that demo is
changing.
The number
of baby boomers
who use TikTok has
seen a 57 percent
uptick since 2021, per
consumer research
company GWI. Plus,
they have a higher
purchasing power
than Gen Z and are
more likely to have
bought a product
or service online
in the last week,
according to GWI’s
recent survey.
Companies that
have already taken
advantage include
Revolve (which is
selling more than
20,000 items),
Pacsun, Clove Shoes,
Alo Yo g a and more.
— Nikara Johns
THE TIKTOK TEST
Shopping on the platform
will be a crucial avenue
Making Hybrid Work
Give workers a voice Retail sales
in 2023 grew
3.6% over
2022 to a
record $5.13
trillion.
— NRF
$5.13 TRILLION
RECESSION FEARS WILL CALM
Economists appear to agree that a
recession in 2024 is unlikely for the U.S.
“A soft landing is achievable for 2024,”
said Kenneth Kim, senior economist at
KPMG during a session at the National
Retail Federation’s Big Show in January.
Jack Kleinhenz, NRF’s chief economist,
also said that he does not expect a
recession in 2024.
SHOE-INFLATION WILL PERSIST
In 2023, full-year footwear prices were
up 0.2 percent from 2022. This followed
a 4.6 percent increase in 2022 over 2021,
which marked the fastest growth rate in
four decades, according to the Footwear
Distributors and Retailers of America
(FDRA). “It is doubtful we will see
meaningful relief from stubborn footwear
inflation this year,” said Steve Lamar,
president and CEO of the American
Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA).
Shoe-flation relief, he said, will largely
depend on the elimination of shoe taris,
such as the Section 301 taris on China,
and stable supply chain management.
Gary Raines, chief economist for FDRA,
also noted the vast impact that import
duties have on retail footwear prices
and said that “a move to lower duties
would likely have a direct, meaningful,
and immediate impact on retail footwear
prices for shoppers.”
SPENDING IS HOLDING STEADY
According to NRF, retail sales in
2023 grew 3.6 percent over 2022 to a
record $5.13 trillion. Continued
spending in 2024 will depend on job
growth, which supports consumer
spending. Brian Nagel, senior research
analyst and managing director at
Oppenheimer & Company predicted
the biggest risk to consumer spending
in 2024 will be the delayed eect of
rising interest rates.
— Stephen Garner & Shoshy Ciment
e Economic Picture
ree predictions for 2024
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
FN ad KANO RnR .pdf 1 1/23/24 2:40 PM
46
PHOTOS: STORE: COURTESY OF JORDAN BRAND; GAUFF: SARAH STIER/GETTY IMAGES
When Coco Gau won
her first Grand Slam
championship at the
US Open last year,
brand partner New
Balance didn’t miss
a beat. The company
immediately released
a T-shirt with the
words “Call me Coco
Champion” in a
nod to the hashtag
#callmecoco, which
started trending
when Gau was rising
through the tennis
ranks at the age of 15.
By homing in on
the emotion, New
Balance capitalized
on the moment. It’s a
move brands should
take into 2024 as the
year is full of tentpole
events, including
this month’s Super
Bowl and NBA All-
Star Weekend, as
well as the Summer
Olympics in Paris.
“It’s about
rich storytelling
about the human
spirit, overcoming
adversity — that’s
where brands will be
heading,” explained
Marc Beckman,
co-founder and
CEO of marketing
agency DMA United.
“The stories that are
compelling show the
human side of talent.”
While Beckman
admitted it can be
tough for brands to
break through the
noise around big
cultural moments,
he recommended
that at the events
and digitally, brands
take risks to be
memorable.
“Leverage
emerging tech-
nologies onsite to
create a superfan
experience. Brands
can oer a fully
immersive experience
that accesses limited-
edition merchandise.
That could also
continue after the
All-Star game, for
example,” he said.
“Brands need to
think out of the box,
where the event
could be the hub for
everything, but the
activation should be
before and after.”
For a more organic
approach, designer
Marina Larroudé —
who has had major
shoe spottings over
the last year (like
Taylor Swift wearing
her Kate Hi boot at
a Kansas City Chiefs
game) — said it’s all
about setting yourself
up for success. While
she does not pay for
celebrity placements,
she works closely
with a VIP dressing
agency in L.A. And
at times, Larroudé
sends out samples
from her home on a
day’s notice.
“We’re always on
top of it and people
can count on us,”
she said. “When a
situation presents
itself, you have to be
ready to jump right
in.” — Nikara Johns
Artificial intelligence seemingly came
out of nowhere last year with the rise of
generative AI (GenAI) modeling platform
ChatGPT. As 2024 heats up, footwear
retailers and brands should stay up to
speed on the technology and its uses.
Here are a few new insights.
CONSUMERS ARE OPTIMISTIC
According to KPMG, consumers are
optimistic about the benefits of GenAI as
the technology becomes more pervasive.
According to the survey, seven in 10
consumers believe its benefits outweigh
the risks. The survey also found that
nearly half of consumers feel it will be
extremely or very helpful in protecting
personal data from misuse (47 percent)
and identifying fake reviews (46 percent).
SHOPPERS BELIEVE IT CAN HELP
WITH THE RETAIL EXPERIENCE
In a survey by global retail technology
partner Intellias, 44 percent of respondents
noted that AI has helped retailers create
more personalized shopping experiences.
This sentiment was even more pronounced
among younger generations, with 68
percent of millennials and 59 percent of
Gen Zers echoing this view.
SHOE COMPANIES ARE JUMPING IN
For footwear and fashion brands, AI
is becoming part of comprehensive
strategies aligned with larger corporate
goals. At Saks, for example, the retailer
is making AI investments as part of
a carefully constructed strategy, chief
operating ocer RJ Cilley noted in a
recent interview with FN. Cilley also
mentioned that Saks is doing so because
it is “committed to delivering the premier
luxury shopping experience to our
customers.” At Nike, CEO John Donahoe
said on the company’s most recent
earnings call in December that it will
increase automation and speed from data
and technology as it pushes forward on its
goal to save up to $2 billion in costs over
the next three years. — Stephen Garner
All In on AI
How it will reshape the biz
SELLING
BIG EVENTS
Grab the moments
In a survey,
68 percent
of millennials
said AI has
helped create
more personal
shopping
experiences.
— INTELLIAS
68 PERCENT
Coco Gau
reacts to
winning the
2023 US Open
At NRF’s Big Show last month, industry
experts and executives outlined what
they see as the store of the future.
LOCAL EXPERIENCES
For Marcelo Trevisan, senior director
of global planning at Jordan Brand, the
future of the label’s retail stores takes
shape in its new World of Flight concept
in Shibuya, Japan. He said this shop is
meant to transport customers into the
world of basketball culture and features
elements meant to connect with local
consumers, including paintings from
artists in the area and region-specific
sneaker launches just for that store.
SMALLER SHOPS
In general, shoe brands are opting for
smaller-concept stores that showcase
top-tier product as well as unique
experiences for specific regions. “They’re
interesting because they’re smaller
square footage, so they’re much more
productive,” said Jane Hali & Associates
analyst Jessica Ramirez. “And they are
hyperactive in that you can use those
stores to ship to the consumer locally.”
AN INTENTIONAL FOOTPRINT
When it comes to expanding brick-
and-mortar, Rothy’s president Dayna
Quanbeck said that her goal was to blend
e-commerce with an intentional physical
footprint. She likened her thinking to a
“Goldilocks and the Three Bears” sort of
dilemma. “One has too many stores, one
is trying to make it online, and there’s
one in the middle that has a diverse
robust business that can reach customers
where they are,” she said, describing
three approaches for retail. “Those [in
the middle] are the ones that will win
in the future.” — Stephen Garner
e Brick-and-Mortar
Formula Small, intentional
Jordan Brand’s World
of Flight in Shibuya
opened in March 2023
Nike Zegama
2 with Vibram
technology
Under Armour
SlipSpeed
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
Tech-loaded super shoes got the running
industry talking in 2023, and Deckers
Brands’ upcoming “super sneaker brand”
has insiders curious. These innovations
come at a time when consumers are
demanding newness more than ever.
Matt Powell, an advisor at Spurwink
River and senior advisor at BCE
Consulting, said the industry is looking
at innovation incorrectly. Although
performance-minded athletes are
gravitating to tech, the more everyday
consumer just wants something new. “Over
half the U.S. sneaker business is sport
lifestyle, meaning not intended for sport,”
Powell said.
He pointed to the Nike AlphaFly 3
running shoe, meant to help people run 4
percent faster. “Your weekend runner isn’t
looking to go 4 percent faster,” Powell said.
“That doesn’t mean anything to them.”
Powell applauded brands such as Hoka
and On for delivering distinct looks and
also touted recent eorts from New
Balance, Salomon, Altra and Adidas Terrex.
To create innovative footwear, podiatrist
and foot and ankle surgeon Dr. Zach
Thomas recommended companies use
existing technologies to make something
new. As an example, he called out Under
Armour’s SlipSpeed, a performance
training shoe with a convertible heel
design that launched in late 2022. “It’s an
interesting concept: a sandal, a slip-on
and a gym shoe,” said Thomas, best known
his popular “Foot Doctor Zach” YouTube
channel. “There’s no new technology —
neoprene upper, Boa closure, Flow midsole
— but they used technologies they owned
to make something unique.”
And when it comes to new tech,
companies should not be afraid to
outsource. Nike tapped Vibram to perfect
its Ultrafly Trail shoe, which debuted in
July 2023 and featured Vibram Litebase
technology and MegaGrip compound.
Nike also worked with Vibram for its
second trail runner, the Zegama 2, arriving
in May.
Vibram Corp. global chief brand ocer
and president Fabrizio Gamberini said
it will launch more new innovations
this year, including a lighter iteration of
Litebase and clear rubber. — Peter Verry
Innovation Hub Prioritize
fresh designs over technology
Jambu.com
877-541-5337
B2B ACCESS
Style Without Compromise
Feb 17- 19, 2024
Cobb Galleria Center
booth #: 1417-1520
Sip & See
Stop by our booth at
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Feb 17- 18, 2024
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Almost four years after George
Floyd’s murder sparked a long
overdue racial reckoning in
corporate America, the lack of
progress is palpable. Amid a
charged political climate, high-
profile critics of corporate DEI
programs are raising their voices,
buoyed by the Supreme Court’s
controversial decision to strike
down armative action in college
admissions.
As a result, CEOs are becoming
more reluctant to take a stand
on diversity issues, while
widespread cost-cutting means
many existing programs are on
the chopping block.
Here, DEI executives talk about
where the shoe industry is now
and how to move forward.
THE BIG PICTURE
“People who were doing the work
before 2020 are continuing to do
that work. Some of the companies
who jumped on the bandwagon
are backtracking. You see some
regression. When you look at the
retailers who created [initiatives
to bring in Black designers], most
of them didn’t create sustainable
programs that would ensure
their success. It’s going to take
something else to happen to bring
this issue back into the forefront.”
— Brandice Daniel,
CEO and founder, Harlem’s
Fashion Row
ACCOUNTABILITY MATTERS
“Many footwear companies set a
lot of goals, but we’re not seeing
a lot of progress or accountable
reporting about where the money
went or what impact it had.
That’s influencing what we’re
hearing in the rhetoric from Elon
Musk and [billionaire hedge fund
manager] Bill Ackman. Some of
their sentiments are flawed,
but detractors [across the
industry] feel validated by some
of these callouts.”
— Jarvis Sam, CEO and
founder, The Rainbow
Disruption; former Nike
DEI chief
DRIVING SYSTEMIC CHANGE
“So many organizations went
programmatic. They developed
apprenticeships only for
communities that had a certain
identity. A systemic solution
says, ‘Let’s look at our processes
broadly, how we hire, how we
communicate to the consumer.
Ingrain it and imbed it.’ If people
can’t finger point, it becomes
much more dicult for them to
call out experiences. Systemic
approaches go a long way in
achieving balance.” — Jarvis Sam
— Katie Abel
In 2024, the stage is set for more
global turmoil, given a contentious
presidential race in the U.S. and the
ongoing wars between Ukraine and
Russia, and Israel and Hamas.
If a shoe company wants to put out a public
statement regarding global events, experts say it’s
important that it come from a genuine place that
aligns with existing values. “It can be jarring when
it doesn’t feel genuine,” said Susannah Davda, a shoe
consultant in London. “It has to appear not to be just
trying to get more customers, but really tie in with the
brand’s values that they are already communicating,
and that their customers believe to be true.”
At the National Retail Federation’s Big Show in
January, Dick’s Sporting Goods executive chairman
Ed Stack recalled one such moment for his company.
After the deadly 2018 school shooting in Parkland,
Fla., Dick’s reduced the types of guns and ammunition
it sells in stores. “We felt that it’s really important for
us in certain issues, to step up and make a statement
or be involved,” Stack said.
On the other hand, some shoe brands recognize
their role might not be as a top commentator on
political events. But even in that case, supporting
employees during trying times is crucial.
“The first thing that we always need to do is talk to
our employees and our teammates about it,” Brooks
CEO Jim Weber told FN in late October, in reference
to the Israel-Hamas conflict. “We start with empathy
and concern for innocent people that are aected and
reaching out to our own teams and employees just to
make sure they’re supported and they’re safe.”
At Allbirds, co-founder and CEO Joey Zwillinger told
FN in November that he will typically communicate
with employees when something happens that is “ultra
significant that aects a lot of people at the company,”
such as when Roe v. Wade was overturned or when
Hamas attacked Israel on Oct. 7.
Martin Homann, co-CEO of On Holding, also noted
the importance of being there for employees. “It’s
important to share a message of inclusion and to be
aware that many parts of the world are currently not in
good shape,” he told FN in November. — Shoshy Ciment
Last year brought
record levels of
leadership turnover —
with a lot of familiar
faces in the mix.
Executive search
firm Kirk Palmer &
Associates tracked 76
C-level appointments
in the shoe industry
in 2023. Of that
number, nearly half
were promoted
internally or moved
over from a sister
brand and more than
three-quarters were
footwear veterans.
However, as
business volatility
looks to be the norm,
experts stress the
importance of having
fresh perspectives
and thought
leadership at the top.
Take , for example,
VF Corp. bringing in
Logitech’s Bracken
Darrell as CEO.
“The footwear
world can be insular
in who they pick to
lead companies and
who they exchange
for the C-suite. But
that doesn’t always
bring about the
most innovative
and resourceful
executives,” said Kyle
Rudy, senior partner
at Kirk Palmer.
The company said
for 2024, the trend
has shifted and many
clients are expanding
their executive
searches outside the
shoe industry.
To ensure
outsiders succeed
in their new roles,
Rudy recommends
they first balance the
desire for innovation
with the culture of
the company: “They
can’t alienate the
core team that’s
been operating the
business already.”
Ye t new leaders will
face intense pressure
to produce quick
results. His solution:
“Start o by focusing
on two or three things
to demonstrate some
successes. That will
win the support of the
key constituencies,
both internally and
externally.”
— Jennie Bell
THE
LEADER
SHIFT
How to
find the new
top talent
DEI Next Steps Experts weigh in
Navigating Politics
Keep it real in turbulent times
48
PHOTOS: JARVIS: COURTESY; DANIEL: COURTESY OF HARLEM’S FASHION ROW; MEGAPHONE: ADOBE
In 2023, a
record 1,914
CEOs left their
posts. Only
28% of the
incoming CEOs
were women.
—CHALLENGER,
GRAY &
CHRISTMAS
1,914
Jarvis Sam
Brandice Daniel
CYAN
MAGENTA
YELLOW
BLACK
Footwear News - February
U SKX CORP JUST SUE IT AD V2
P I C K
FOOTWEAR NEWS // FEBRUARY 5, 2024 // FOOTWEARNEWS.COM
MY WAY
A consummate fashion
chameleon, Usher’s onstage
looks can range from head-to-toe
biker leathers to fur coats over a
well-cut suit and cowboy boots
— or his signature roller skates,
which he recently wore for his July
2023 show with Rémy Martin in
Las Vegas. Non-football fans are
already placing bets about the
wardrobe for his Feb. 11 halftime
performance at the Super Bowl—
will it be Jordan? Rick Owens?
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